Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 64

YEAR'S BEST GREEK WINES
230749

92 | Mercouri Estate

$40

2013 Letrini Domaine Mercouri Cava ^ A
potent blend of refosco and mavrodaphne,
this is black as night and charged with both
lemony acidity and firm, leathery tannins.
Those elements work to keep the wine feeling dynamic, highlighting the push-pull
between tart cranberry and dried cherry flavors, as well as the dusting of bitter cocoa
that binds it all together. Leave it in the cellar
for a few years to mellow, or pour it now with
a well-marbled ribeye. § Athenee Importers &
Distributors, Hempstead, NY
231365

92 | Monemvasia

$25

2006 Monemvasia Monemvasios ^ A blend
of agiorgitiko and mavroudi, this is a wild
wine, its exotic spice and Old-World elegance
conjuring up images of ornate cathedrals and
swinging censers of incense. It's full bodied
and meaty, with velvet-textured tannins that
carry an abundance of clove-scented cherry
fruit to meet the caramel notes of age. It's a
wine to enjoy over the course of dinner, and
into the cheese course. § Flying Olive Farms,
Raleigh, NC
230727

91 | Seméli

$25

2014 Nemea Reserve ^ This makes the best
of a rainy vintage, focusing the wine on elegance rather than extract. It's lean and fresh,
with herbal notes framing the sour cherry
fruit and pink-peppercorn spice adding lift.
The tannins have the grip to handle a juicy
burger. § Athenee Importers & Distributors,
Hempstead, NY
231630

90 | Antonopoulos

$30

90 | Mercouri Estate

$28

90 | Mitravelas Estate

$22

2013 Achaia Nea Dris Cabernet ^ This shows
its Mediterranean roots in its warm, rich fruit
without losing the essential spice and herb
characteristics of cabernets sauvignon and
franc. Tobacco-scented and edged in tannins, it's built for a seared hanger steak. § Verity Wine Partners, NY
230752
2015 Ilia Avgoustiatis ^ Made from an earlyripening local red grape, this is juicy, floral
and tangy, well-padded with purple plum
and pomegranate flavor. It feels clean and
precise, almost airy in texture, making this a
terrific red to serve lightly chilled in the summertime. § Athenee Importers & Distributors,
Hempstead, NY
231633
2016 Nemea Agiorgitiko ^ Velvet textured
and royal purple in the glass, this is a ripe,
extracted agiorgitiko with some polish from

64

WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2018

time in barrels. It feels broad and sweet,
ready for thick-cut steaks off the grill. § Verity
Wine Partners, NY
229886

87 | D. Kourtakis

$13

87 | Monemvasia

$15

86 | Antonopoulos

$15

2015 Nemea Kouros Agiorgitiko (Best
Buy) ^ This is earthy and plummy, with notes
of leather and spice that will align it with a
lamb burger. § Nestor Imports, NY
231360
2008 Peloponnese Agiorgitiko (Best Buy) ^
Mellowed into a warm, earthy richness of
fruit, this is gentle and giving, with dusty tannins to grip a lean cut of beef, cooked rare. §
Flying Olive Farms, Raleigh, NC
231629
2015 Peloponnese Private Collection
(Best Buy) ^ A blend of mavrodaphne with
merlot (60/40), this is ripe and soft, with
mulled blackberry tones and warm spice. §
Verity Wine Partners, NY

DE S S ERT
229952

100 | Estate Argyros

$150

1992 Santorini Vinsanto 20 Years Barrel
Aged ^ The tradition of Vinsanto on Santorini predates the sweet wine of Tuscany by
the same name. Yiannis Argyros, who took
over his family's estate in 1974, gave careful
consideration to the grapes that went into
his Vinsanto, paying especial attention to the
honeyed aidani and floral athiri, two grape
varieties that play a supporting role to the
assyrtiko that forms the wine's base. He also
instituted an aging regimen in small, old barrels to create complex Vinsantos. This one,
released by his son Mattheos, who now runs
the estate, took at least two months to ferment, due to the sweetness of the sun-dried
grapes, and then mellowed in barrel for 20
years. With 255 grams per liter of residual
sugar, it's technically incredibly sweet. But
in the midst of the cathedral of rich flavors-
dark, figgy fruit building into notes of dried
cherries, salt, herbs and candied orange
peel-there's a beam of acidity that brings
light and openness to the wine's structure.
The wine feels at once fresh and mature-or
ageless, really. Argyros's best Vinsantos can
age for 30 years or more: This is one of them.
Craft + Estate/The Winebow Group, NY
231536

97 | Domaine Sigalas

$63/500ml

2011 Cyclades Apiliotis ^ Made from the
rare mavrotragano, picked superripe and
dried in the sun for two weeks, then fermented and aged in old oak barrels for two

years, this pours like liquid velvet. It's undeniably sweet, laden with the flavor of cherries in syrup and pomegranate molasses, but
then there are the notes of herbs and spices,
cedar and earth, savory notes that make it
feel complex and balanced. It has lift as well
as heft, wrapping up with a sea-breeze flavor
that leaves the palate refreshed. § Diamond
Importers, Chicago, IL
229950

96 | Estate Argyros

$100

2001 Santorini Vinsanto 12 Years Barrel
Aged ^ A blend of assyrtiko with ten percent
each athiri and aidani, picked ripe, sun-dried
and aged in barrel for 12 years, this was bottled in 2013. It's as creamy and dense as a
warm salted caramel, with a similarly luxurious texture, and it's packed with flavor, from
fresh apricot to notes of burnt orange, cinnamon, leather and citrus zest that take the
edge off the sweetness. Heady and concentrated, this will age well for decades. § Craft +
Estate/The Winebow Group, NY
230293

93 | Ktima
Gerovassiliou

$35/500ml

90 | Domaine Sigalas

$77/500ml

2012 Epanomi Late Harvest Malagousia ^
Star-bright and shining gold, this is malagousia in all its satin-textured glory. It smells of
honeysuckle and tastes of honeyed oranges,
peaches and cream, and it has just enough
lime-zest acidity to keep the whole package
clean. It's satisfying on its own, or with fresh
fruit after dinner. § Cava Spiliadis, Astoria, NY
231535

2011 Santorini Vinsanto ^ A blend of sundried assyrtiko and athiri, aged in old oak
barrels for two years, this coats the tongue
in a luxurious blanket of flavors, from figs in
cinnamon syrup to limoncello. A little volatile acidity lifts it out of its concentration, and
gives it the possibility to pair with a dessert-
Greek yogurt with honeyed walnuts would
do. § Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL n



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2018

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 19
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - Cover4
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