Wine & Spirits - August 2018 - 68

YEAR'S BEST GALICIAN WINES
92 | Attis

$32

2015 Rías Baixas Nana Albariño ^ This
albariño's golden color is unusually deep,
and seems to parallel its scents of caramelized fruits. However, what it shows in the
color and scent is very different from what it
offers in flavor. The acidity takes command
and suddenly everything is fresh, the caramelized notes transformed into herbs and
white fruit, radiant and crisp. Nana grows at
Attis's oldest vineyard, planted 40 years ago
in Salnés. § P.R. Grisley, Salt Lake City, UT
230957

92 | Attis

92 | Lagar de Costa

$50

2015 Rías Baixas Maio5 Albariño ^ A selection from this estate's three oldest parcels,
planted 50 years ago, this wine is timid in
aroma. But in flavor, notes of lime and mint
emerge in the midst of a luminous acidity,
highlighting layers of fruit, from pear to apricot. With air, notes of caramelized lemon and
flowers emerge, adding even more complexity. § SAWM Imports, Richmond, VA
230210

92 | Rodrigo Méndez

$44

2016 Rías Baixas Sálvora ^ This comes from a
vineyard planted in 1905, in the Salnés village
of Meaño, close to the sea. The wine is aged
in old 600-liter casks for a year. Its menthol
and chamomile notes emerge from refreshing, light white-fruit flavors, with white-pepper highlights and mouthwatering acidity.
For crab salad. § Olé Imports, New Rochelle, NY
230170

91 | Attis

$35

2015 Rías Baixas Embaixador Albariño ^
Notes of tangerine and cinnamon mix in this
vivacious albariño. Those tangerine scents
transform into sharp, pungent flavors, closer
to lime and ginger, while the acidity continues to refresh everything in its path. § P.R. Grisley, Salt Lake City, UT
230973

91 | Adegas Gran Vinum

$23

2016 Rías Baixas Esencia Diviña Albariño
(Best Buy) ^ Clean and crystalline, precise in
its expression of albariño grown in the granite soils of Rías Baixas, this is filled with tart
lime and orange flavors. It's light, energetic
WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2018

87 | Namorio

$18

86 | La Caña

$13

2016 Rías Baixas Albariño (Best Buy) ^ Gentle menthol and herbal notes fill this light
and refreshing albariño. The lime-like acidity
is soft, the finish spiced with ginger aromas. §
Boutique Wine Collection, Philadelphia, PA
229922
2016 Rías Baixas Albariño (Best Buy) ^ As
citrusy as lime juice, this wine has touches
of green apple in a light and refreshing finish. Open it with wood-roasted clams. § Jorge
Ordonez Selections, Dedham, MA

$23

2016 Spain Sitta Laranxa Orange Wine ^
From 40-year-old vines growing in the granite soils of Meaño, this albariño gains its
orange hue from a long maceration with
the skins. It also develops intense citrus flavors, like lemonade made from candied lemons, squeezed to the last drop. It's ripe and
intense, with a persistent acidity that emphasizes the fruit. § P.R. Grisley, Salt Lake City, UT/
Steep Hill Importing, Madison, NJ
231041

and firm, balanced by a soft touch of sweet
pear in the finish. A great choice for mussels
and fries. § Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA

RIBEIRO

231069

91 | Pazo de Villarei

$25

2017 Rías Baixas Pazo de Villarei Albariño ^
This albariño from Salnés centers on tense
acidity. All the flavors project out from that
acidity, a wellspring of spices, herbs and tart
white fruits. It's refreshing and vivacious. For
raw scallops. § W.Direct, Lawrence, KS
231013

90 | Lagar da Conesa

$17

2016 Rías Baixas Albariño (Best Buy) ^ Full
of menthol and herbal notes, this smells like
a bouquet of spring herbs. The texture is
silky, with fresh and energetic acidity incorporated into the white fruit flavors. An ideal
partner for steamed lobster. § AWDirect/Wine
Trees Portfolio, Santa Rosa, CA
231043

90 | Rego do Sol

$19

89 | Torroxal

$19

2017 Rías Baixas Albariño (Best Buy) ^ With
herbal aromas and notes of flowers and lime,
this is concentrated and ripe, the honeyed
fruit framed by mouthwatering acidity.
Open it for linguine with clam sauce. § SAWM
Imports, Richmond, VA
230911
2017 Rías Baixas Albariño (Best Buy) ^ Lemony and refreshing, this is simple, focused on
citrus acidity that lifts its herb and fruit flavors. It's easy to drink a lot of this with any
raw shellfish. § Misa Imports, Dallas, TX
230884

88 | Bouza de Carril

$17

87 | Finca de Arantei

$18

2017 Rías Baixas Albariño (Best Buy) ^ This
wine's soft watermelon notes feel refreshing,
with persistent acidity enlivening the fruit. A
simple companion for grilled octopus. § Hand
Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA
230181
2017 Rías Baixas Single Vineyard Albariño
(Best Buy) ^ A lemony acidity prevails in this
simple wine with herbal and citrus flavors,
direct in its fruit expression, fresh and soft.
Drink it with sea bass sashimi. § MundoVino/
The Winebow Group, NY
230438

231155

95 | Luis A. Rodríguez
Vázquez

$60

93 | Luis A. Rodríguez
Vázquez

$31

90 | Casal de Armán

$41

88 | O'Ventosela

$16

2011 Ribeiro Escolma Viña de Martin ^ Luis
Anxo Rodríguez selects the grapes for this
treixadura-based blend from his oldest vineyards on the granite slopes of Arnoia. If it
were not for the color and the intensely ripe
aromas of white fruits, you might think this
is a red wine: The structure is so powerful, so
sharp and blunt. With flavors of ripe peaches
and pears, and touches of stone and spice,
this wine is built to age. § Jose Pastor Selections/
Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA
231154
2015 Ribeiro Os Pasas Viña de Martin ^ This
blend is primarily treixadura, with lado, torrontés and albariño, a selection from the
youngest vines-between 10 and 25 years
old-Luis Anxo Rodríguez farms in Arnoia.
The ripeness of the fruit transforms into
scents of nuts and honey, as well as watermelon. The flavors are just as ripe and concentrated but the texture is firm, focused on
the task of holding all that fruit. Chill it for
grilled sausage-stuffed calamari. § Jose Pastor
Selections/Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA
230468
2015 Ribeiro Edicion Limitada Finca Os
Loureiros ^ Mineral notes dominate this
treixadura: There are herbal details and tart
white-fruit flavors, but it is the minerality
that defines the austere personality of this
white, and gives it the grip for baked butterfish. § Think Global, Santa Barbara, CA
231028
2016 Ribeiro El Godello Juan Miguez
(Best Buy) ^ With a fine texture and herbalfruity flavors of peach and pineapple, this is
an easy godello to drink with steamed mussels. § Michael Skurnik Wines, NY

https://www.wd-direct.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2018