Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 44

Breakthrough Wines

Jamsheed's vines in Wandin
East, Upper Yarra, at sunset

Yarra Valley Shiraz

44

WINE & SPIRITS

but more elegant." Lambert sources his fruit from
south-facing vineyards in the Upper Yarra: Between
the coolness of the climate and the limited sun, the
fruit can ripen slowly and sustain acidity at harvest.
The style-medium-weight, perfumed syrah-
requires careful treatment in the cellar as well, he
says. "I hate to see any amount of new oak in shiraz,
whether Australian or French," Lambert says. "It covers up all the beauty of the variety." He relies on large
old French oak foudres and ferments with whole clusters and without added yeasts, then bottles without
fining or filtration. The results are wildly fragrant,
frisky syrahs entirely unlike the stereotype of blockbuster Australian shiraz.
Timo Mayer is also based high in the Upper Yarra,
in the remote outskirts of Healesville, at a vineyard he
calls the Bloody Hill. As we stood outside his house
that overlooks his vines, he told me about leaving
Germany to settle in Australia, the path to his own
label in 2000, and his excitement about all things
whole bunch.
His first experience working with syrah was back in
the 1990s when he was making wines at De Bortoli,

Tasting Notes by Joshua Greene, W&S Australian wine critic

Innocent Bystander
2015 Yarra Valley Syrah

Jamsheed
2015 Beechworth Warner Vineyard Syrah

This is an earthy Yarra wine that's beautiful in its informality,
from the scents of horse stable and game to the high-toned
mace-like scent that brings to mind Mediterranean roasted
eggplant, or shawarma. It's tight and meaty, with lasting
spice. (91 points, $20; Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA)

Gary Mills makes this syrah from a site in the foothills of the
Victorian Alps-the elevation at Beechworth is more than
1,800 feet. He works without additions: spontaneous, wholebunch fermentations; no enzymes; no fining or filtering and
minimal sulfur at bottling. So, the wine leans a little natural
in its volatility, needing a good shake in a decanter to get
past the pickle scents and land in meat-and-olive-tapenade
spiciness. It turns fragrant with light scents of blackberries,
cured meat and pepperoncini. Let it open up before serving
with rabbit pappardelle. (91 points, $55; Vine Street Imports,
Mount Laurel, NJ)

FA L L 2 0 1 8



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018

Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 1
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 2
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 3
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 5
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 6
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 7
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 8
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 9
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 10
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 11
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 12
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 13
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 14
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 15
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 16
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 17
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 19
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 20
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 21
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 22
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 24
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 25
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 26
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Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 72
Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - Cover3
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