Wine & Spirits - Fall 2018 - 49

Sebastián Zuccardi

soil makes a difference in the wines.
"What we've found, after ten years of microvinifications, is that those
soils give the wine a special texture-more vertical and elegant." The
difference is perceptible even in wines like his José Malbec, a richer style
made in homage to his father.
Still, the question of how high is too high tugs at Mendoza vintners: Zuccardi has introduced Polígonos, a wine from a vineyard in San
Pablo, at 4,593 feet. In terms of altitude and cold, it's his most extreme
site, planted five years ago and already producing a vibrant wine-purple fruit shot through with bright, energizing acidity. Bodega Tapiz is
another player betting on the region, opening a new winery there in
2017 to bottle its Alta Collection wines, sourced from nearby vineyards.

Tapia mentioned some vineyards in Uspallata, at 6,500 feet, though the
plantings are too young to know the quality.
Considering the threat of wind, frost, snow and hail at these altitudes,
why go higher? Zuccardi points out that climate change has been slower
to make itself felt in the Southern Hemisphere, as there's less land than
water, which is slower to react. Even so, they know it's happening. "Fortunately, we have tools and experience to fight against some climatic
risks-especially hail and frost. Having that solved, I think that place
will resist better the impact of an eventual global warming, or a lack
of water."
And besides, so far, the risk is paying off with some of the most
vibrant malbecs our generation of wine drinkers has ever tasted. ■

Tapiz 2014 Mendoza Alta Collection
Malbec

Tinto Negro 2014 Mendoza
Vineyard 1955 Malbec

Sitting at 4,400 feet in altitude, the San Pablo
area is now one of the most sought-after spots for
grape growing in the Uco Valley. At that altitude,
malbec grapes ripen with intense flavors and firm
acidity, as in this red from vines planted in 2007.
It's rich in notes of tart cherries and violets, with
a gripping structure and a lovely floral finish. (91
points, $20; Vino del Sol, Corralitos, CA)

Alejandro Sejanovich makes this wine from vines
planted in 1955 on alluvial soil, rich in chalk. The
site is located in La Consulta, some 3,600 feet
above sea level, where malbec tends to be fresh,
with a linear structure due to the cold Andes influence. This is deliciously juicy, its acidity contrasting with the sweetness of the fruit, providing nerve
and tension along with firm tannins. (94 points,
$100; Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Zuccardi 2013 Uco Valley José
Malbec
Sebastián Zuccardi makes this malbec in homage to his father. Selecting fruit from a vineyard in
Altamira with chalk soils, Zuccardi crafts a wine
with distinctive tannins, firm and sharp, sustaining flavors of black cherries and spice. It's generous rather than concentrated, with floral notes in
a refreshing finish. (92 points, $45; Winesellers,
Niles, IL)

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