Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1

ED I T O R'S
NOTE

TO
TH E
Beach

W

VIEW OF THE BEACH FROM DOMAINE
SIGALAS IN SANTORINI.

hen spring comes to New York, the first hints of summer draw Tara Q. Thomas back
to Greece. This year, she headed to Santorini, to catch up on the latest developments
in what has become Greece's vinous treasure.

Santorini wines-made from assyrtiko grown in the rock of a moonscape formed by an
ancient volcano-were once virtually ignored in the market. They are now selling at prices that
rival white Burgundy. And the complexity, cellar longevity, and frisson of summer pleasure they
offer make it clear why that might be the case. The other reason for the steep prices: scarcity.
The tourism boom in Santorini has taken its toll in vineyards, just as ever more wine lovers
around the world have discovered the local wines. Grape prices have skyrocketed more than 600
percent in the last five years; growers are breaking long-term relationships with winemakers,
hoping to sell to the highest bidder. The few actual vignerons on the island are reassessing
the vines they tend and the grapes they grow, still hoping to overdeliver on the prices their
wines demand in the market. That translates into more regional and site-expressive wines, which
comes back to farming practice. Thomas finds a group of growers and winemakers working on a
reboot of Santorini, they themselves curious as to the future of their vines and their wines even
five or ten years from now.

P

atricio Tapia witnessed another transformation of wines from a summer destination
on the Mediterranean: Penedès. I'd heard Pepe Raventós talk about his latest project at
Can Sumoi, but it wasn't until a recent dinner we shared, drinking his new vintage of a
biodynamically grown xarel-lo, that I was convinced-this is a fascinating terroir, known mostly
for Cavas and cabernets, that remains largely unexplored. Tapia agreed to investigate, trading
in time at Barcelona's beaches to visit the hills and cliffs high above them, where growers are
working to reclaim the genetic diversity of their Catalan vineyards. It's an unfolding story that's
already produced some delicious results-fresh wines with depths of flavor that will add to your
own beach time.

JOSHUA GREENE


http://www.drfrankwines.com/

Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 6
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover4
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