Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 24

POSEIDON TACOS AT
MARISCOS JALISCO.

the Goat that Gets us

W

Poseidon's Brut

E

ditor Joshua Greene
had been dreaming
about the Poseidon
taco at Mariscos Jalisco
since we moved our office from
San Francisco to Los Angeles last
spring. So, we found ourselves
scouting the painted trucks along
Olympic Avenue until we spotted the right one, got on the line
and waited to put in our order at
the front window. Within minutes we were carrying seafoodladen plates to a camp table set
up behind the car. The Poseidon
is served tostada style-chopped
bay shrimp mixed with spicy
squash, onion, cilantro and avocado beneath a mound of octopus
and squid dressed in a picante
red sauce, and all set atop a crispy
tortilla. There's also a shrimp taco
that's wrapped in a tortilla and
fried whole, then laced all over
with chopped tomatoes, onions
and avocado.
Moneymaker pours the first
bubbles in pale pink: a Roederer
Estate 2011 L'Ermitage Brut Rosé
from the Anderson Valley. At $75,
it may seem an ambitious wine
for a taco crawl, but it turns out
that its integration and freshness
make it one of the most versatile
wines of the day.
"The little bit of the strawberry in this wine is great with
the shrimp," says Italian wine
editor Stephanie Johnson. That
24

WINE & SPIRITS

hint of strawberry, and the tangy
fresh fruit notes, work well with
a fruity red salsa, too-the wine
sustains its mineral-tinged freshness. The avocado is a bridge,
helping to mitigate the heat of
a spicy squash tossed together
with the chunks of octopus, even
as it plays well with the toastiness of the bubbles. (This isn't
the first time in recent months
we've found avocado to go with
the toast in rich sparkling wine:
in May, Greene wrote about Krug
and avocado at LA's 71Above on
wineandspiritsmagazine.com.)
While seafood might be a natural match for a delicate sparkling
wine, the spice in this taco could
make it challenging. And yet, the
Roederer stands up to all that
spice. It's not shy or diminished
by the food. "It has a fresh Pacific
character to it," says Greene,
wondering if it is, in fact, a better match than a Champagne
might be.
Another Californian, Iron
Horse's Russian Cuvée, is the
sweetest of the brut sparkling
wines from the estate in the
Green Valley of Russian River Valley. It was designed to appeal to
the Russian market's preference
for richer sparkling wines. And,
it meets New York tastings editor
Rachel DelRocco Terrazas's preferences for a Poseidon match: She
finds it takes on the taco's spiciness with its Meyer lemon notes,
salinity and hint of breadiness.

AUGUST 2019

e'd been standing in line for pulpo at Mariscos
Jalisco when the guys to our left started talking
goat. "Where's the goat?" we'd asked, and they
pointed us two trucks down.
It turns out to be two long blocks, past a rundown ArmyNavy surplus store where they're selling knives, ammo and
loans. Tacos y Birria La Unica's red awning spans the sidewalk ahead, with a long line of tacolytes waiting to place
their orders. We join them, debate the options, and choose
an array of offal and goat. By the time our number is called
our group has settled around a sidewalk picnic table, bottles in bags tucked discretely out of sight. We dish up plates
full of birria de chivos (goat), tortillas stuffed with cabeza
(beef head) and labia (yes, beef-lip tacos), and a styrofoam
cup brimming with goat meat in broth.
The goat is rich and slightly feral-when we'd planned
our itinerary and our wines, we'd been thinking polpo,
camarones and carnitas, but not goat. We try Elk Cove's
La Bohème Brut Rosé, and with the goat in broth, it calls
up notes of strawberry soda, yet lacks the piercing acidity needed to cut the richness of the meat. Where it works,
however, is with the offal-the beef lips and head.
"The wine has a sweetness to it. It's simple and rustic,"
says Greene. "A wine to go with lips."
On its own, though, that goat in broth is what would
draw us back to La Unica: Neither unctuous nor greasy, it's
balanced somewhere between rich and savory.

EDITOR JOSHUA GREENE
GETS HIS GOAT AT LA UNICA.


http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com

Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 9
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover4
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