Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 37

The place is a completely different environment than at Raventós i Blanc, where Raventós
and his team produce close to 500,000 bottles of
sparkling wine with each harvest. He traces his
path to Can Sumoi back to 2012, when he and
his father, Manuel Raventós, decided to leave
the Cava denomination and bottle their wines as
Conca del Riu Anoia. They hoped to focus their
wines on their origin-in this case, their 149 acres
of vineyards surrounding the family's winery in
Sant Sadurní d'Anoia.
For several years, Pepe and his young family
loved in New York while he commuted back and
forth to Sant Sadurní. And it was in New York that
he and his wife, Susana Portabella, grew interested in natural wines, produced without added
sulfur. "When I try natural wines, I feel they have
a lot more energy," he says.
By 2016, after he'd moved the family back
home, he set up a small winery in his garage and
began to experiment, vinifying small lots of wine
while minimizing his own intervention. That's
when he came across Can Sumoi.
Now using the estate's 50 acres of old vines,
as well as grapes from neighboring growers, Raventós is
bottling a line of seven wines, all focused on local varieties.

Among them, Can Sumoi La Rosa plays the spicy
red-fruit flavors of summol off the acid nerve of
xarello and parellada, while the Xarel-lo cuvée
is full of mineral and spicy tones and has a fine
line of acidity. Both wines are produced without
cultured yeasts or sulfur additions. "We're trying to recover a kind of knowledge, to listen to
older growers and to appreciate their way of seeing wine," Raventós says.
At the end of the 19th century, his greatgrandfather, Manuel Raventós Domenech, was
one of the Cava producers responsible for establishing the blend of xarello, macabeo and parellada, a pragmatic decision post-phylloxera that
abandoned the diversity in the Catalàn vineyards. Later, in the 1960s, Miguel Torres's father,
Miguel Agustín Torres, helped introduce cabernet sauvignon in Spain and, with it, a wave of
French varieties that began to replace the native
vines throughout Iberia.
It's not only their descendants who are bringing a different, purely Catalàn perspective to the
local vines. It's a vinous form of Catalàn independence, with ever more growers exploring their
inheritance, a vast genetic resource in once abandoned vineyards, to build a new Catalonia. n

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AUGUST 2019

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Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202104
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201406
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201310
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201306
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2012winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201210
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201208
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/drm_test
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201110
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com