Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 45

YEAR'S BEST SUMMER SPARKLERS
GE RM A N Y

in the traditional Champagne method. This
rosé is entirely xinomavro, a bit of saignée
juice giving both its deep, bright color and its
vivid cherry flavors. It has a broad, marzipan
richness as well as a breezy acidity, the wine
subtle and lasting, with a creamy mousse. §
Verity Wine Partners, NY -T.Q.T.
272084

90 | Kamara

235737

92 | Robert Weil

$47

2015 Rheingau Sekt Brut Riesling ^ This has
the crisp delicacy of a croissant, the wine's
acidity weaving through layers of lees,
lemon and orange notes. It's dry and firm,
with a savory richness adding depth without
weight. (W&S 2/19) § Loosen Bros. USA, Salem,
OR -T.Q.T.

90 | Karanika

235731

90 | Dr. Loosen

$35

2011 Mosel Sekt Brut Rosé ^ This is Ernst
Loosen's first sparking rosé, made from a
patch of pinot noir he acquired in 2011,
thinking it was riesling. (It was wintertime...)
The parcel sits toward the top of the Urziger
Würzgarten vineyard, where the cool
temperatures keep the acidity high. Made
with a second fermentation in bottle, with
five years on the lees in bottle, the wine is
rich in texture and cherry flavor, with a laserbeam of acidity that keeps it refreshing. It
would be delicious with the dark meat of a
roast holiday bird. (W&S 2/19) § Loosen Bros.
USA, Salem, OR -T.Q.T.

GRE EC E
272276

93 | Karanika

$33

2017 Amyndeon Brut Rosé ^ Dutchman
Laurens Hartman founded this winery with
the express purpose of producing sparkling
wines. He chose a patch of land on the high,
cool plateau of Amyndeon in northwest
Greece, where the xinomavro ripens under
the abundant sun while retaining vibrant
acidity. He farms biodynamically-many of
his vines are on their own roots, protected
by the sandy clay soils that discourage
phylloxera-and vinifies his sparkling wines

$27

2017 Greece Pet' Nat Rosé Demi-Sec ^
Dmitiri Kioutsoukis makes this by fermenting
malagousia and assyrtiko, then adding a
dosage of the fermented must of xinomavro
the following year. It's cloudy, with a slightly
coppery cast, a wild wine with notes of herbs,
dry spice, sweet clementines and rising bread,
all swirling around on fine, foamy bubbles.
While the label reads "demi-sec," it's dry
enough to serve all the way through dinner,
especially if you're having Sichuan or other
spicy cuisine. § Dionysi Grevenitis Selections/
DNS Wines, San Francisco, CA -T.Q.T.
272277
$39

2015 Amyndeon Extra Cuvée de Réserve
Red Label Brut Nature ^ A blanc de noir from
old, ungrafted xinomavro vines, this is firm,
lean and elegant. It feels super young and
unevolved, with crisp herbal notes flitting
around the stony minerality, the flavors
gently charged by silky bubbles. Pour it now
with sashimi, or tuck it away in the cellar for
a few years to relax and develop more depth. §
Verity Wine Partners, NY -T.Q.T.

ITA LY
FRIULI

232291

90 | Edi Kante

$35

Vino Spumante Metodo Classico
Dosaggio Zero Rosato ^ Edi Kante makes this
refreshing, bone-dry sparkler from pinot noir
grown in the limestone soils of Friuli's rugged
Carso region. It's a palate-cleansing wine with
tart strawberry flavors and mouthwatering
acidity. Don't overchill it or you'll miss the
subtlety. (W&S 10/18) § Kermit Lynch Wine
Merchant, Berkeley, CA -S.J.

PIEMONTE

90 | Parusso

$50

2014 Vino Spumante di Qualità Brut
Metodo Classico ^ Early-harvested nebbiolo
forms the base for this traditional-method
sparkler. The wine rests on its lees for three
years during second fermentation, gaining
notes of fresh mushroom that complement
flavors of cherry, peach and cantaloupe.
Brisk acidity keeps the flavors fresh while
a pearly mousse adds to the finesse. (W&S
12/18) § Massanois Imports, NY -S.J.

S I C I LY
270668

92 | Murgo

$40

90 | Murgo

$30

2010 Vini Spumante di Qualità Metodo
Classico Extra Brut ^ The Scammacca del
Murgo family has been growing grapes on
Mount Etna's eastern slopes since 1850.
Now run by Michele Scammacca del Murgo,
with help from his seven brothers, the estate
produces a range of traditional-method
sparkling wines from nerello mascalese.
The Extra Brut is perhaps their most elegant
sparkler, with a fine, silky mousse and toasty
brioche flavors developed over a six-year rest
in bottle with the lees. Notes of tart lemon
and green apple emerge after a few moments
in the glass, with undertones of smoke and
salt that linger on the dry finish. (W&S 6/19) §
North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA -S.J.
270859
2016 Vini Spumante di Qualità Metodo
Classico Brut Rosé ^ This gains its beautiful
pink-rose color from brief contact with the
skins of nerello mascalese during pressing.
It smells of rose petals and tastes of fresh
strawberry and tart cranberry with a hint of
lightly toasted bread. A wash of cool salinity
refreshes the finish. Perfect for alfresco
dining. (W&S 6/19) § North Berkeley Imports,
Berkeley, CA -S.J.

T R E N T I N O A LT O A D I G E
231926

92 | Ferrari

233715

90 | Fontanafredda

savory richness from a dash of 1967 Barolo
used to top up each bottle after the second
fermentation. (W&S 12/18) § Palm Bay Int'l,
Boca Raton, FL -S.J.
233846

$45

2012 Alta Langa Brut Contessa Rosa ^ A
delicious sparkler made in the traditional
method, this has a fine, persistent mousse
that draws together flavors of tart cherry,
pomegranate and toasted bread. It's made
with chardonnay and pinot noir from the
estate's high-elevation vineyards, and the
wine gains its delicate onion-skin color and

$135

2006 Trento Giulio Ferrari Riserva del
Fondatore Extra Brut ^ After ten years on
the lees, this chardonnay has developed a
silky texture and weighty notes of yellow
plum, white truffle and buttered toast that
swirl around a pillar of acidity. It's a lush and
flamboyant partner for poultry or seafood
in rich sauces. (W&S 10/18) § Taub Family
Selections/Esprit du Vin, Boca Raton, FL -S.J.
WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2019

https://www.weingut-robert-weil.com/en/ https://www.drloosen.com/wines/

Wine & Spirits - August 2019

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