Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 55

YEAR'S BEST GALICIAN WINES
91 | Gran Vinum

$23

2018 Rías Baixas Esencia Diviña Albariño ^
This wine's zesty, granitic acidity and cool,
smoky orange scents conjure a range of
foods. Tina Vaughn of NYC's The Simone
suggested "raw fish, or a terrine of whitefish,
or mackerel poached in wine. Crab or
scallops would love it. Or softshell crab with
capers, lemon and brown butter." § Grapes of
Spain, Lorton, VA
271030

91 | Granbazán

$24

2017 Rías Baixas Etiqueta Ambar
Tremoedo Albariño ^ Crisply edged in
coastal freshness, this wine's evocative scent
brings to mind nori and kaffir lime. It's clean
and savory, with salinity that will perk up the
flavors of fresh goat cheese crumbled over a
summer salad. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
271116

91 | Palacio de Fefiñanes

89 | La Caña

$18

2017 Rías Baixas La Caña Albariño
(Best Buy) ^ This has the spicy edge of pickled watermelon rind, the bright flavors of
albariño buzzing with honeyed fruit. That
fruit essence lasts; chill it for grilled prawns. §
Jorge Ordóñez Selections, Dedham, MA

$24

2018 Rías Baixas Blanquito ^ This bright,
floral blend gains its complexity from a host
of varieties-albariño, treixadura, caiño,
loureiro and godello. There's plenty of brisk
acidity to keep the peach and pear flavors
tasting coastal, showing its provenance by
the sea. All that fruit is surrounded by the
springtime scent of honeysuckle and a savory
note of almonds that lasts. Pure Gallego
pleasure. § W.Direct, Lawrence, KS
271529
$60

2016 Rías Baixas Las Tablas Albariño ^
Intensely white in its flavors of almond milk
and honey, this wine builds richness with
some leesy tannins, their toasty almondskin notes lasting alongside fresher notes
of orange zest. For a roast pork chop. § M
Imports, Fairfield, CT
271363

2011 by Luis Taboada, whose family owns
a 12th-century manor and old vines in the
southeastern reaches of Ribeira Sacra. He put
together a team-including Curro Bareño
and Jesús Olivares-to make this field blend
of white varieties, mostly godello and doña
blanca. It's grown with organic practices and
fermented in neutral French oak, a portion
sustaining a long maceration on the skins.
The scent is driven by the schist soils, a
reductive, matchstick scent that's dark and
mineral, while the fruit itself is cool and
crunchy, with juicy flavors of apples and
pears. The tannic structure makes it a white
to serve with veal carpaccio, or a smoked
pork chop. § Eric Solomon Selections/European
Cellars, Charlotte, NC

RIBEIRO
271708

271285

89 | Paco & Lola

$21

88 | Agnusdei

$20

88 | Aquitania

$18

2017 Rías Baixas Albariño (Best Buy) ^
There's a bright orange sting to this wine's
acidity, coming up behind the peaches-andcream flavors. It's as rich as meringue, and
a little warm with alcohol, needing shellfish
in a cream sauce to stand up to its weight. §
Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., NY
271305
2017 Rías Baixas Albariño (Best Buy) ^ This
wine's tangy orange spice brings to mind
an Old-Fashioned. With its broad, nutty
flavors, it's a wine for spicy pulled pork. § Wine
In-Motion USA, Newark, NJ
271398

271057

90 | Maior de Mendoza

$22

2018 Rías Baixas Laxas Albariño (Best
Buy) ^ Plump white-nectarine flavors come
complete with the bitter skin of the fruit,
making this wine salty, with hints of beach
grass. It's gentle and fresh, for crab. § Frontier
Wine Imports, Dover, NJ
270966

$30

2018 Rías Baixas Albariño de Fefiñanes ^
This supple wine has a tangy green-fruit character, like the entire lime, from cool zest and
pith to pulp, or crunchy cucumber. Pour it
with a tarragon-and-lime-infused prawn ceviche. § Classic Wines, Stamford, CT/Kysela Père
et Fils, Winchester, VA

91 | Adegas Tollodouro

89 | As Laxas

2017 Rías Baixas Bernon Albariño (Best
Buy) ^ This has the nutty richness of almond
flour, while zesty acidity cuts through it like
a knife, leaving mango and lime-pulp flavors
that last. Chill it for raw shellfish. § Regal Wine
Imports, Moorestown, NJ
271528

85 | Maior de Mendoza

$24

2018 Rías Baixas Sobre Lías Albariño
(Best Buy) ^ Lees aging has given this wine a
chalky feel and a puffy texture. Both sweet
and underripe, it's a soft white to serve with
Marcona almonds. § M Imports, Fairfield, CT

RIBEIRA SACRA
272008

92 | Fedellos do Couto

$29

95 | Luis A. Rodríguez
Vázquez

$32

93 | Luis A. Rodríguez
Vázquez

$45

2016 Ribeiro Viña de Martin Os Pasás
(Best Buy) ^ Farming small parcels of vines in
the hills of Arnoia, his hometown in southern Galicia, Luis "Anxo" consistently produces some of the greatest wines in Spain.
This is his young-vine blend. Working with
local varieties-treixadura, albariño, lado
and torrontés-he captures springtime in
Galicia's coastal hills, a delicate scent of apple
blossoms lasting through the freshness of
rain. By fermenting the wine spontaneously
and aging it on its lees in stainless steel for
a year, he concentrates those flavors and
textures into the tingling crunch of apples
contrasted by umami notes as resonant as a
broth of mushrooms, herbs and pork. Rodríguez Vázquez elevates the terroir of Ribeiro
to the world stage without compromise, presenting a beautiful, satisfying wine. § José Pastor Selections, Fairfax, CA
271709

2015 Ribeiro A Teixa ^ Rodríguez Vázquez
grows this wine at a vineyard in Ribadavia,
where his treixadura, godello and albariño
vines are rooted in decomposed granite soils.
He fermented the 2015 without added yeasts
in large oak foudres, where it aged on the lees,
picking up the toasty richness of brioche. The
wine's oak influence retreats with air, revealing a brisk and breezy salinity and a pear-like
freshness. The richness turns toward shellfish
broth as the flavors move in complex directions. Decant it for grilled whole fish stuffed
with herbs. § José Pastor Selections, Fairfax, CA
271150

2016 Ribeira Sacra Conasbrancas ^ This
is a relatively new project, established in
WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2019

55


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Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202104
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013winter
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/drm_test
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201112
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https://www.nxtbookmedia.com