Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 60

YEAR'S BEST PROVENCE ROSÉS
90 | Maison de
Grand Esprit

WHITE
$17

2017 Côtes de Provence L'Etre Magique
Rosé ^ Winemaker Sebastien Long managed
to capture a sense of beachside Provence in
this tall, perfume-like bottle. Blended from
grenache with 30 percent cinsault and 15
percent syrah, it feels crisp and breezy, with
lime-leaf scents, barely ripe strawberry flavors and mouthwatering salinity. (W&S
4/19) § Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA
271280
271165

91 | Domaines Ott

$25

2018 Côtes de Provence By.Ott Rosé ^ Ott's
"second-label" rosé, By.Ott, blends fruit from
Clos Mireille and Château de Selle with a portion of purchased fruit from two long-time
growers. It's as airy and silky as whipped
cream, yet delivers plenty of flavor, the redberry notes lifted by lemony acidity. § Maisons
Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, CA
272254

91 | Hamptons Cuvée
St-Barths

$22

2018 Côtes de Provence Sélection Souviou Rosé ^ Earthy and ripe, here's a substantial rosé, its cherry-juicy flavors backed up by
notes of strawberry leaves and raspberry tea.
Firm and lasting, it will stand up to a lentiland-merguez salad. § Cellier Wines Distributing, Southold, NY
271106

90 | Ch. des Bertrands

$30

2018 Côtes de Provence Rosé ^ A super-pale,
super-reductive wine, this sheds some of its
smoky, flinty scents for dusty spice and plumskin savor. While it's austere in flavor, the
rich texture suggests that this will become
more expressive with more time in bottle. §
Henriot, NY
272255

90 | Hamptons Cuvée
St-Barths

$22

90 | JCB by
Jean-Charles Boisset

$25

2017 Côtes de Provence Rosé ^ From its
barely pink hue to its lavender scents and
smooth, lemony flavors, this is cool and
reserved, a quiet rosé to drink on its own. §
Cellier Wines Distributing, Southold, NY
271111

2018 Côtes de Provence No. 5 Rosé ^ JeanCharles Boisset's team blends this wine from
cinsault, grenache and syrah sourced from
vineyards near Montagne St-Victoire. It's a
smooth rosé, with a corn-silk texture and
sleek flavors to match. The notes of sage and
aloe conjure up a warm, sunny feeling without conferring excess weight. § Boisset Collection, St. Helena, CA
236930
60

WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2019

90 | Château Minuty

$79

90 | Château de Roquefort

$21

2018 Côtes de Provence 281 Rosé ^ Labeled
with the Pantone reference number for the
deep-blue hue of its bottle, this blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault feels like it was
designed to appeal to the Sancerre-drinking
crowd. It's smooth and grassy in flavor, with
a smoky, flinty edge to the citrusy fruit. § Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA
271963
2018 Côtes de Provence Corail Rosé ^ From a
biodynamically farmed vineyard just outside
of Cassis, this pale-pink rosé is vibrantly fresh
in its peach-raspberry flavors, with notes of
fresh-cut grass adding to its vivacity. § V.O.S.
Selections, NY
271979

88 | La Bernarde

$16

2018 Côtes de Provence Les Hauts du Luc
Rosé (Best Buy) ^ The Austruy family, owners of Commanderie de Peyrassol, run this
estate in Le Luc, farming the vineyards under
organics. Mostly cinsault, with grenache,
mourvèdre, rolle and a tiny bit of syrah, this
is a delicate rosé, floral and spicy, with a gentle, mossy texture. Picnic perfect. § Skurnik
Wines & Spirits, NY
271971

88 | Domaine
Pierre Rougon

$16

87 | Château du Rouët

$15

2018 Côtes de Provence Domaine du Moulin de Verdillon Rosé (Best Buy) ^ From an
estate in Flassans-sur-Issole, this evokes its
inland Provençal surroundings in its cool
herbal notes and citrus flavors. The greenolive salinity encourages the appetite. § Vinovia Wine Group, Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
271351
2018 Côtes de Provence Cuvée Reservée
Tradition Rosé (Best Buy) ^ Grown just
northwest of Cannes, on the slopes of
the Estérel mountains, this would make a
refreshing aperitif, with its floral scents and
bright, clean clementine flavors. § Skurnik
Wines & Spirits, NY

ALPILLES
271096

93 | Domaine Hauvette

$60

2013 Alpilles Dolia ^ With its structure and
complexity, this could stand in for a great
white Hermitage. Dominique Hauvette farms
her vineyards biodynamically, and harvests
Dolia from a 1.7-acre planting of roussanne,
marsanne and clairette in the clay-limestone
soils at the base of Les Alpilles. Fermented
and aged in cement eggs, then held in bottle, this 2013 is remarkably fresh for such
a golden wine, with the plump juiciness of
ripe yellow plums overlaying the toasty lees
notes. The acidity gives the wine's smooth
texture a shimmery quality: That energy will
light up a dish of morels in cream sauce. § Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

BANDOL
271745

90 | Dom. de Terrebrune

$36

2017 Bandol ^ This white is as round and
mouthfilling as the name of the village it
grows in: Ollioules, just inland from Bandol.
A blend of clairette, ugni blanc and bourboulenc vinified in stainless-steel tanks, its silky
texture carries notes of almond, pear and
lemon heightened by sea-salt minerality. It's
a hedonistic match for seared scallops. § Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA

CASSIS
271558

92 | Clos Ste-Magdeleine

$52

90 | Clos Ste-Magdeleine

$35

2016 Cassis Bel-Arme ^ Just below the Cap
Canaille, a cliff looming above the port of
Cassis, this terraced parcel holds a mix of
clairette, marsanne, ugni blanc and bourboulenc planted 50-some years ago. Jonathan Sack-Zafiropulo, the fourth generation
of the family at the estate, ferments and ages
the wine in cement eggs, working the lees to
give the wine its creamy, rich texture. It's the
scent of the sea, however, that's especially
bewitching, imbuing the wine's peachy fruit
with a stony, oceanic savor. § Kermit Lynch
Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA
271100
2017 Cassis ^ A blend of fruit from both highand low-altitude fruit, this is tart and rich at
once, with marsanne's waxy texture laying
down a smooth backdrop for the grapefruit
brightness of ugni blanc, clairette and bourboulenc. It's refreshing now but stands to
gain more complexity with another couple
of years in the bottle. § Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA n


http://www.domaines-ott.com/en/the-wines/by-ott/rose

Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202104
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202012
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014winter
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013winter
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201212
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/drm_test
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201110
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com