Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 64

FOCUS: CHILE COSTA
Our blind panels tasted 108 new-release wines from Chile's coastal regions for this issue.
Our critic for Chile, Joshua Greene, rated 19 as exceptional (90+) and 11 as Best Buys.
Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

S PA RK L I N G
124075

90 | Apaltagua

$16

San Antonio Valley Costero Extra Brut
(Best Buy) ^ This grows in Chile's coastal hills,
seven miles from the Pacific, a blend of chardonnay harvested ripe and sauvignon blanc
harvested early. After nine months in the
bottle on the lees, it's the sauvignon blanc
that shows itself most clearly, its green notes
edging the riper peach and apple flavors. Dry,
smoky and austere, this wine has a salty finish that will work well with oysters. § Global
Vineyard Importers, Berkeley, CA

W HI T E
CHARDONNAY
123943

90 | Lapostolle

$16

2016 Casablanca Valley Grand Selection
Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ Here's a broad, rich
white that holds some tension, keeping the
pale golden-yellow fruit feeling brisk. Floral
notes come up as the initial smokiness turns
to a woodsy character, clean and lasting. §
MundoVino/Winebow Imports, NY
124094

86 | Apaltagua

$13

2018 Casablanca Valley Reserva Unoaked
Chardonnay (Best Buy) ^ Spicy fruit-skin
flavors of cold-pressed apple juice and yellow
cherries fill this creamy, round white. It has a
touch of butterscotch sweetness in the end;
to serve before dinner with raw almonds. §
Global Vineyard Importers, Berkeley, CA

123966

$22

2018 Limarí Valley Talinay Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc ^ When Felipe Müller, the
winemaker at Tabalí in Limarí, heard that
the Talinay Vineyard might be for sale, he
worked to convince Guillermo Luksic, who
owned Tabalí, to buy it in 2009. The site is
64

WINE & SPIRITS

94 | Amayna

AUGUST 2019

$18

92 | Casas del Toqui

$18

2017 San Antonio Valley Sauvignon Blanc ^
This is rich and juicy, with strawberry and
passion-fruit flavors that feel constricted by
the salty, onion-skin character of reduction.
It's underscored by a hum of saline acidity, a
smoky white at the intersection of the desert
and the ocean. § Quintessential, Napa, CA
124118
2018 Colchagua Valley Coastal Mist
Terroir Selection Sauvignon Blanc ^ From
the far-coast district of Paredones, this is
tight, intense and oceanic sauvignon blanc.
It delivers its juiciness out of salty mineral
spice, blooming into beach rose, pear and
mango before drawing back into a savory,
fresh impression that lasts. Use it to amplify
any shellfish fresh from the sea. § Via Pacifica
Imports, San Francisco, CA

$25

2018 Leyda Valley Sauvignon Blanc ^ In
1999, the Garces Silva family planted their
first vines in Leyda, a more extreme coastal
setting than most of Casablanca to the north,
where the boom in plantings was already
well underway. When they built Amayna
in 2002, it was the area's first winery. Diego
Rivera makes this sauvignon in stainless
steel, presenting it's luscious, ripe fruit in
the context of desert freshness-ripe notes
of kumquat and pineapple, rich agave depths
and salted-cucumber crunch. It's deeply
flavorful, a deliciously refreshing coastal
white. § Vine Connections, Sausalito, CA
123953

92 | Matetic

SAUVIGNON BLANC

95 | Tabalí

separated from the Pacific by a high coastal
peak, a rain forest at the edge of the desert,
sustained by the humidity of cold Antarctic
waters meeting the warm currents from the
north. The sea was also responsible for the
ground beneath this vineyard, a pocket of
pure white limestone, ancient seabed that
rose to the surface just close enough to the
Limarí River that there's water accessible
to irrigate the vines. Vinified and aged in
stainless steel, this wine is all about minerals.
Then there's the rich, tropical complexity of
the fruit, opening to guava, then tightening
to orchard-fruit flavors of pear and Granny
Smith apple. The wine's clarity and oceanic
refreshment have a particularly Chilean
savoir faire. This would be fascinating to
follow as it ages, and mouthwatering to
drink now with any fresh catch. § Biagio Cru
and Estate Wines, New Hyde Park, NY
124128

92 | La Pincoya

$15

2017 San Antonio Valley Corralillo Sauvignon Blanc (Best Buy) ^ The Matetic family planted their first vines in San Antonio
in 1999, farming them under biodynamics.
They have since expanded into Casablanca,
where they grow a portion of this sauvignon
to blend with their San Antonio fruit. It's
rich and concentrated, with perfumed notes
of agave and herbs woven into ripe fruit flavors of cherimoya and orange zest. Tight,
spicy and long, this is a coastal white for panroasted sole. § Quintessential, Napa, CA
123954

123993

91 | Cono Sur

$16

91 | MontGras

$20

91 | Santa Rita

$17

2018 Casablanca Valley Reserva Especial
Sauvignon Blanc ^ The initial scents may
remind you of cracked green peppercorns,
and then, if you stay with the wine a while, the
spiciness of turmeric. It's a rooty character,
like freshly turned earth, that adds depth to
this wine's yellow fruit. Pour it with lightly
poached bay scallops tossed over pea shoots. §
Fetzer Vineyards, Hopland, CA
123971
2018 Leyda Valley Amaral Sauvignon
Blanc ^ This sauvignon's freshness comes
across in orange-blossom scents and passionfruit flavors. It feels oceanic in its brisk saltedgrapefruit finish, even as the texture is plump
and generous. Pour it with sea bass ceviche. §
Guarachi Wine Partners, Woodland Hills, CA
124252
2018 Leyda Valley Gran Reserva Medalla
Real Sauvignon Blanc (Best Buy) ^ The scent
of nori and the refreshing feel of sea spray
place this wine on Chile's far coast. That
coolness and clarity is infused with supple
blanched-almond and peach flavors, and
sharper notes of bell pepper and bitter florals.
It's a wine for carnitas tacos with cilantro and
lime. § Delicato Vineyards, Manteca, CA


http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com https://www.conosur.com/en/vinos/reserva-especial-sauvignon-blanc/ https://www.tabali.com/en/wines/talinay/

Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 7
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover4
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