Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 66

SYRAH
124130

92 | Boya

$20

2016 Leyda Valley Syrah ^ This fresh farcoast syrah grows seven miles from the
Pacific, the vines 19 years old growing in
soils of decomposed granite. Fermented in
stainless steel and aged in neutral French
oak, its notes of green peppercorn and black
olive to show unfettered. With its gentle, airy
dark-red-berry flavor, it's a refreshing red for
roast lamb with tapenade. § Vine Connections,
Sausalito, CA

124139

92 | Quintay

$20

2017 Casablanca Valley Q Gran Reserva
Syrah (Best Buy) ^ Jammy up front, with
dense boysenberry and grape flavors, this
opens up with air and takes on a more
savory black-olive and black-pepper grip. It's
a meaty syrah with some resonance in the
tannins. § Regal Wine Imports, Moorestown, NJ

FOCUS: BAJA CALIFORNIA
Our blind panels tasted 113 new-release wines from Baja for this issue. Our critic for
Mexico, Rachel DelRocco Terrazas, rated 13 as exceptional (90+) and 8 as Best Buys.
Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

W HITE

RED

124259

124145

92 | Casa Magoni

$19

2017 Valle de Guadalupe Manaz ViognierFiano (Best Buy) ^ Camillo Magoni is a
second-generation winemaker from Italy
who came to Mexico 49 years ago to work
for L.A. Cetto in Baja. After years of making
his own wines on the side for family and
friends, he started his own winery in 2013.
He's planted his vineyards to 70 varieties; two
of them, viognier and fiano, come together
in this intriguing blend. It's aromatic, with
notes of pineapple and lilac, yet lean and
smoky in flavor-a good match with grilled
herbed vegetables. § La Competencia Imports,
Napa, CA
124190

2017 Baja California No Sapiens ^ This fresh
raspberry-red wine comes from 69-year-old
vines in San Antonio de las Minas, 7.5 miles
from the Pacific Ocean. The Téllez brothers,
who run the winery, aren't sure what the variety is; they think it may be cariñena, while
the farmer of this vineyard thinks it may be
dolcetto. It doesn't taste particularly like
either one; instead, it's full of juicy candiedcherry flavors lifted by floral notes and a seaside salinity. It's a refreshing red, especially
with a light chill and an avocado salad. § José
Pastor Selections, NY
124206

90 | Henri Lurton

$27

2016 Baja California Nebbiolo ^ Roganto
is a mashup of Rogelio Sánchez del Palacio
and Antonio Luis Escalante Dominguez, two
friends from Ensenada who began to make
wine casually in 1987, and commercially in
2001. They've since expanded their vineyards to all the grape-growing valleys surrounding Ensenada, including San Vicente,
Santo Tomás and Ojos Negros. This nebbiolo
is from San Vicente, the southernmost valley,
and sees 24 months of French and American oak. Don't go into this bottle expecting
a Mexican counterpart to an Italian grape:
Nebbiolo Mexicano tastes like a different
beast. This one has deep blackberry flavors,
scents of tomato leaf and aloe, and a granitic
minerality that keeps it feeling fresh. § La Competencia Imports, Napa, CA
124173

2018 Valle de San Vicente Le Chenin ^ After
17 years working at Château Brane-Cantenac,
the Lurton family estate in Margaux, France,
Lourdes "Lulu" Martinez Ojeda returned to
her native country to spearhead the Lurton's
wine project in Baja. She makes Le Chenin
from vineyards south of Ensenada, in Valle
de San Vicente, producing a white that's rich
with apricot and ruby grapefruit flavors and
chenin's signature acidity. Give it a slight chill
and drink it with ceviche. § La Competencia
Imports, Napa, CA

R OSÉ
124146

93 | Bichi

123970

92 | Tabalí

$20

2016 Limarí Valley Vetas Blancas Reserva
Especial Espinal Syrah ^ This grows at the
edge of the Atacama Desert, on a terrace
above the Limarí River, 15 miles from the
Pacific. It's tightly framed at first, a little
reduced and cannabis-green, relaxing into
a rich, luxurious red as it opens with air. It
builds to huckleberry and plum flavors, with
green-peppercorn accents that last. Decant
it for duck roasted with cherries. § Biagio Cru
and Estate Wines, New Hyde Park, NY n

66

WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2019

$28

2017 Baja Rosa ^ Bichi, meaning "naked"
in Sonoran dialect, is the project of Noel
and Jair Téllez, who launched their winery
in Tecate in 2014. Under the tutelage of
Louis-Antoine Luyt, they've made a name
for themselves with biodynamically farmed,
low-sulfur wines. This rosé, produced from
an unidentified grape variety grown in their
No Sapiens vineyard, feels distinctly Mexican, with flavors of prickly pear, watermelon
rind and sweet roasted agave. Chill it to drink
on its own or with fish tacos. § José Pastor Selections, Fairfax, CA

92 | Bichi

$28

92 | Roganto

$38

91 | Adobe Guadalupe

$70

2016 Baja California Rafael ^ Tru Miller
founded Adobe Guadalupe in 1997 in
honor of her son, who'd been fascinated
with Mexican culture, and the Virgin of
Guadalupe, in particular, before he died. She
hired Chilean Daniel Lonnberg to make the
wines; he blends this cuvée from nebbiolo
and cabernet sauvignon. It balances its
plummy fruit character with green notes of
nopales, giving this wine a dusty, desert feel.
Rounded out with spicy coconut notes picked


http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com http://www.quintay.com/en/vinos/syrah-en-2/ https://www.tabali.com/en/wines/vetas-blancas/

Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 9
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013winter
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https://www.nxtbookmedia.com