Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 76

IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
concentrated flavors of apple and citrus laced
with notes of fennel, lemongrass and mint.
Brisk acidity lifts the weighty texture, and a
wash of salinity lingers on the finish. § Skurnik
Wines & Spirits, NY
272107

88 | Durin

$22

2018 Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato
(Best Buy) ^ The Basso family harvests pigato
for this wine from a patchwork of terraced
plots scattered around the town of Ortovero,
and it reflects the area's polyculture in its
wild-herb notes and orange-blossom scents.
Pour this zesty, saline wine with your favorite
sushi. § North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
272105

88 | Durin

$22

2017 Riviera Ligure di Ponente Lunghéra
Vermentino (Best Buy) ^ A note of spearmint
punctuates this wine's flavors of crushed
apples and lime zest. Intensely salty, it's a
match for filet of sole. § North Berkeley Imports,
Berkeley, CA
271983

88 | Poggio dei Gorleri

$20

2017 Riviera Ligure di Ponente Vigna Sorì
Vermentino (Best Buy) ^ Notes of crunchy
herbs and sea salt give way to light quince
and lime flavors in this vermentino. Chill it
well and pour with a summer salad. § Soilair
Selection, NY
272071

87 | Terenzuola

$17

2018 Colli di Luni Vigne Basse Vermentino (Best Buy) ^ Zippy salinity balances this
wine's flavors of ripe peach and citrus pith.
For seafood. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY

MARCHE
$33

2015 Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva
Classico Rincrocca ^ Riccardo Baldi is a young
winemaker who farms about 30 acres of vines
in the calcium-rich soils near Staffolo, about
two dozen miles from the Adriatic coast. He
selects fruit for Rincrocca from his best vines
to produce a wine with vibrant flavors of
mandarin, guava and apple that ripple with
brisk acidity and cool saline tones. The wine
rests on the lees in concrete tanks for a full
year, developing a creamy texture and notes
of honey and salted almonds, those flavors
culminating in a lively and energetic finish. §
Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, VT
271778

91 | Garofoli

$26

2016 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium ^ The Garofoli family
harvests this verdicchio from ten parcels that
range in elevation from 1,000 to 1,800 feet.
76

WINE & SPIRITS

270956

91 | Umani Ronchi

AUGUST 2019

$38

2015 Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva
Classico Plenio ^ The Bianchi-Bernetti family owns more than 500 acres of vines in the
Marche and Abruzzo, including Torre, a vineyard near Cupramonta planted in 1993. The
site reaches 1,150 feet of elevation, where the
fruit hangs on the vines into early October,
taking on flavors of pineapple and dried apricot while retaining zippy acidity. About 40
percent of the wine ages on the lees in large
wooden casks, and a small portion undergoes
malolactic conversion, building complex
honeyed notes and a rich, creamy texture
that's balanced by brisk salinity and notes of
bitter greens. Cellar this for a year or two to
allow the wine's intense flavors time to meld. §
Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
271974

91 | La Staffa

271975

92 | La Staffa

They vinify each separately, aging the wine
on the lees for a year in large underground
concrete tanks. In the cool 2016 vintage, the
wine is creamy and delicate, with scents of
lime blossoms and sea breezes. Lively saline
notes underline the crisp apple and pear flavors, as well as the wine's pleasant almond
bitterness. § Dalla Terra, Napa, CA

$89

2015 Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva
Classico Selva di Sotto ^ This is the first
vintage of Selva di Sotto, a wine Riccardo
Baldi made to emulate verdicchio wines of
the 1980s and '90s. He harvests fruit from
vines planted in 1974 at one of the highest
points in Staffolo (up to 1,640 feet above
sea level) and ferments it in concrete tanks,
deliberately exposing the wine to oxygen in
an effort to inoculate it against future oxidation and extend its aging potential. Selva di
Sotto has an entirely different profile from
Baldi's other verdicchio bottlings, with more
muted aromatics and dense, briny flavors
that open up to reveal notes of preserved
lemon, orange peel and subtle spices. A bit
overpowering at present, it would be fascinating to taste after a few years in the cellar,
poured with a whole fish baked in salt. § Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, VT
271976

91 | La Staffa

$23

90 | Umani Ronchi

$38

88 | Fontezoppa

$17

88 | Umani Ronchi

$19

88 | Sartarelli

$17

87 | Casalfarneto

$17

2018 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore (Best Buy) ^ This is a delicious
introduction to the classic flavors of verdicchio. Brisk and floral, with mouthwatering
flavors of mandarin and golden apple, it stays
vibrant through the saline-washed finish. §
Artisanal Cellars, White River Junction, VT
270953
2016 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Casal di Serra Vecchie
Vigne ^ Fruit for this wine comes from Umani
Ronchi's oldest verdicchio vines, planted in
the early 1970s. The wine rests on the lees
in concrete vats for ten months, developing a golden hue and a rich, creamy texture
filled with honeyed flavors of green pear and
lemon pastry. Brisk acidity cleanses the finish
and leaves a tingling sensation on the palate. §
Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
271981
2018 Verdicchio di Matelica Vardi (Best
Buy) ^ Floral and citrus scents lead into flavors
of ripe pineapple and mango, with a waxy
texture that balances the wine's brisk, lemony acidity. It finishes fully dry, with lingering saline notes. § Soilair Selection, NY
270957
2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Casal di Serra (Best Buy) ^
This is selected from Umani Ronchi's best
vineyard plots on both sides of the Esino
River, and a portion of the fruit remains on
the skins for a short time. Intensely saline at
present, with flavors of golden apple, green
plum, turmeric and ginger, the wine will benefit from a year or two in the cellar to allow
the salt and fruit notes to integrate. § Vineyard
Brands, Birmingham, AL
272362
2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Tralivio ^ The warm and dry
2017 vintage produced a rich Tralivio laden
with flavors of pineapple and passion fruit.
It's dense and honeyed, weighted by ample
alcohol that's brightened at the finish with a
wash of salinity. § T. Edward Wines, NY
271790
2017 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Fontevecchia (Best Buy) ^
This wine's viscous texture and bitter almond
notes brighten with time in the glass, giving
way to saline-inflected flavors of citrus and
green apple. § Enotec Imports, Glendale, CO
270918


http://www.umanironchi.com/en/wines/white/marche_castelli_di_jesi_verdicchio_plenio

Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - August 2019

Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 1
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 2
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 4
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 6
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 7
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 8
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 9
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - August 2019 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2020winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202006
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201911
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201906
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2018_winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2017winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201706
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2016winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2016fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201606
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2015winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201406
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201310
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201306
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/2012winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201210
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/fall2012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201208
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201206
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201204
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201202
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/drm_test
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201110
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com