Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 93

IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
Our blind panels tasted 628 imported new-release wines for this issue. Our critics rated 112 as exceptional (90+) and 45 as Best Buys.
Our reviewers' initials come after each tasting note: Joshua Greene on the wines of Australia, Chile, Alsace, Burgundy, Loire, Savoie,
Jura, Portugal and Uruguay; Greene and Rachel DelRocco Terrazas split the wines of Spain; Stephanie Johnson on the wines of Italy;
Tara Q. Thomas on the wines of Argentina, Austria, France's Rhône, Greece and Romania.
Find a complete list of wines tasted and all reviews at wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

A RGE N T I N A W HIT E

through this wine's black-currant flavors,
lending it a dark, meaty richness. It's herbal
and firm, with smooth tannins that can handle a steak. § W.Direct, Lawrence, KS-T.Q.T.
124455

90 | El Enemigo

86 | Trivento

$11

2018 Mendoza White Orchid (Best Buy) ^ A
blend based on torrontès, this balances its
candied-lemon sweetness with wispy floral
notes. Fresh and juicy, it's a pretty white to
chill for an aperitif. § Fetzer Vineyards, Healdsburg, CA -T.Q.T.

A RGE N T I N A RE D
124456

92 | El Enemigo

$85

2015 Mendoza Gran Enemigo ^ A blend of
cabernet franc with a little cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec, this aged
in 3,000-liter barrels. The wine's minty,
stemmy notes infuse its plummy fruit, lending it crunch and detail. It's both grand and
refreshing, even if a little short. Decant it and
pour with lamb and mint jelly. § MundoVino/
The Winebow Group, NY-T.Q.T.

124522

91 | La Truite

$38

2016 Mendoza Reserva Clos d'Argentine
Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Earthy tones churn

$110

2014 Gualtallary Gran Enemigo Cabernet Franc ^ Alejandro Vigil aged this wine in
100-year-old barrels that he brought over
from Alsace, believing they'd complement
the spice of cabernet franc. In fact, this is
enticingly aromatic, notes of violets, roses,
and leather giving the juicy fruit lots of detail.
It's a pretty franc, gentle and earthy. § MundoVino/The Winebow Group, NY-T.Q.T.
124483

90 | Luca

$25

2017 Uco Valley Laborde Double Select
Syrah ^ This comes from a selection of vines
that viticulturist Luis Laborde brought over
from France's Rhône Valley and planted
more than 40 years ago. Grown at 3,500 feet
in the Uco Valley, the vines ripened their
fruit to a deep purple juiciness without losing the acidity that makes this so refreshing.
It's floral and silky, a smooth, precise syrah
with lingering minerality. § Vine Connections,
Sausalito, CA-T.Q.T.

A USTRALIA WHITE
124679

93 | Brokenwood

$34

2011 Hunter Valley Oakey Creek Vineyard
Semillon ^ Still tense and vibrant after eight
years in bottle, this semillon has developed
a toastiness that complements its pear flavors and pine-sap spice. You could think of
it in the context of white Burgundy and pair
it with blanquette de veau. Or you could consider it a spicy coastal white and serve it with
squid stuffed with sausage. Either way, or just
on its own, this is delicious. Iain Riggs makes
it from a vineyard on the flats that often goes
to Brokenwood's top semillon, ILR Reserve. §
Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA-J.G.

124678

91 | Brokenwood

$20

91 | Yalumba

$20

90 | d'Arenberg

$20

90 | Giant Steps

$42

2018 Hunter Valley Semillon (Best Buy) ^
Think lemongrass cream puff, then take away
the richness, and you might have something
like this rainwater-fresh, vibrant white. Its
floral notes of white tea hint at the wine's
leesy tannins, suggesting the complexity
to come after a few years of bottle age. § Old
Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA -J.G.
124528
2017 Eden Valley Samuel's Collection
Viognier ^ If you're looking for something
to pour with your veal chop, this wine's ripe
peach and pear-like juiciness would be a
refreshing match. There's some tannic structure to take on the meat, and a clean spice
that lasts, ready to meld with food. It's firm,
juicy and rich, an example of Louisa Rose's
talent and expertise with viognier. § Negociants
USA/Winebow Imports, NY -J.G.
124712
2018 Adelaide Hills The Broken Fishplate
Sauvignon Blanc ^ Ripe and sleek, this broad
sauvignon has rooty radish notes and grapefruit-pith bitterness, a contrast to its sweeter
passion-fruit and apricot flavors. It lingers
with warmth, a big wine to match grilled barramundi. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA -J.G.
124708
2018 Yarra Valley Wombat Creek Vineyard Chardonnay ^ Mellow and rich, this is
a creamy chardonnay with peach and whitechocolate fullness. Yet it feels completely
clean, open and cleansing, orange-zesty and
dry. Well worth cellaring for a year or two,
this will benefit from bottle development. §
Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA -J.G.
124671
WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2019

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Wine & Spirits - October 2019

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2019