Wine & Spirits - October 2019 - 98

IMPORTED NEW RELEASES
BOUZERON
272796

92 | Louis Jadot

$26

2016 Bouzeron ^ Bright and zesty, this
aligoté has a mix of ripe strawberry scents
and underripe strawberry flavors. That pale
greenness gives the wine some floral tension,
keeping it bright and zesty even as the texture is broad and luscious. It's a clean and
fragrant white to pour with boudin blanc. §
Kobrand, Purchase, NY -J.G.
272637

90 | Dom. Michel Briday

$26

2017 Bouzeron Cuvée Axelle ^ This wine's
saltiness tightens up its lush and juicy fruit.
A simple, pale refreshment with floral and
earthy notes, pour it with almonds. § Vineyard
Brands, Birmingham, AL -J.G.

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET
272536

91 | Domaine CoffinetDuvernay

$95

2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les
Blanchots Dessus ^ Ornate and intense, this
is a brutal young chardonnay, massive and
packed with earthy scents of sun on stone.
Its broad texture becomes luscious with air,
lifted by lemon-blossom notes and green-citrus freshness. This needs bottle age to mellow and open; it will reward patient cellaring
and rich foods, like blanquette de veau. § Taub
Family Selections, Boca Raton, FL -J.G.
272617

91 | Vincent Girardin

$128

2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les
Caillerets ^ This is a chardonnay of the earth,
its pure apple and chamomile flavors taking
on a tapioca-like richness from time in oak,
but never losing their brightness of orchard
fruit, nor the wine its earthy intensity. It's
supple and tangy, suited to long aging. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL -J.G.
272440

91 | Vincent & Sophie
Morey

$56

2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles
Vignes (Best Buy) ^ A muscular Chassagne,
this has the meaty richness of a scallop, notes
of white bean and green tea adding to the
wine's ripe orange flavors. There's some seashell minerality in the end, showing depth
of flavor from the old vines. It's suited to
drinking over the next several years with anything fresh from the sea. § Vineyard Brands,
Birmingham, AL -J.G.
272976

90 | Philippe Colin

$70

2017 Chassagne-Montrachet ^ Light and
airy, with the fresh orange scent of a classic
Chassagne, this wine has the flavor of wild
98

WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2019

asparagus tips when they are just picked and
nutty. Or you might describe it as a greenalmond-skin nuttiness. Either way, it's
intriguing, seamlessly integrated and lovely
to drink. § Cape Classics, NY -J.G.
273094

90 | Dom. Marc Morey

$131

2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En
Virondot ^ En Virondot is at the top of the
slope, at the edge of the forest, where there's
not much topsoil over the chalk. The vineyard grew an open, lush wine in 2016, dominated right now by caramel and creamy
vanilla notes picked up from its stay in oak
barrels, 30 percent new. Give it some bottle
age to reveal the distinctions of the terroir. §
Banville Wine Merchants, NY -J.G.

CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET
273056

93 | Bouchard Père & Fils

$450

2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru ^ A
domaine wine of structured intensity, this is
as elegant as it is bold. Scents of floral honey,
maple sap and kumquat highlight its rich,
supple textures, and though the wine may
lack the austerity typical of young Chevalier,
it has concentration and staying power. § Maisons & Domaines Henriot, NY -J.G.

MACON
272583

87 | Marie-Pierre Manciat

$18

2016 Mâcon Les Morizottes (Best Buy) ^ A
soft and gentle Mâcon, this is a simple textural pleasure, satin-white and easy. Chill it
for drinks on the porch. § Shiverick Imports,
Los Angeles, CA -J.G.
272601

88 | Château Vitallis

$19

2017 Mâcon-Fuissé (Best Buy) ^ Round and
supple, with spicy apricot flavors and salty
notes, this is a simple white for cured ham. §
David Milligan Selections, NY -J.G.

CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE
272541

92 | Domaine Antonin
Guyon

M E U R S A U LT
272467

93 | Thierry et Pascale
Matrot

$150

91 | Thierry et Pascale
Matrot

$68

90 | Thierry et Pascale
Matrot

$113

90 | Thierry et Pascale
Matrot

$74

2017 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières ^ A deep
and satisfying Meursault, this wine has flavors that lead from hazelnut into ornate layers of animal (gamey white meat), vegetable
(roots) and mineral (leesy energy). Its richness seems to emanate from its saturated
core, and it lasts, suggesting the complexity this wine holds back for now, waiting to
release it with bottle age. § Vineyard Brands,
Birmingham, AL -J.G.
272470

2017 Meursault ^ Distinctly Meursault in its
fresh scents of salted almond butter, this
wraps its flavors of oranges and lemons in a
savory, toasty richness. It's clean, with lovely
depth, simple but true to its place. § Vineyard
Brands, Birmingham, AL -J.G.
272563

2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes ^ This
shows its ripeness in sweet notes of honeysuckle and violet candies. There's fresh chamomile and nutmeat complexity underneath,
the wine gaining savor as it opens with air,
particularly in the lingering finish, which
is clean and continues to offer more flavor
depths as it lasts. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL -J.G.
272465

2017 Meursault Les Chevalières ^ The toasty,
nutty richness of Meursault develops out of a
wine that's initially austere, almost fierce. It
mellows from green apple and bitter almond
to cool, juicy flavors and lemony freshness.
Concentrated as a young wine, this will be at
its best with two or three years in the bottle. §
Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL -J.G.
273417

90 | Roux Père & Fils

$150

2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru ^
Bottle age has brought out this wine's whiterose and honeysuckle perfume. Go deeper
and you'll find an umami-rich white, with
classic scents of wheat sheaf and orange blossom, juicy pear and chalky minerality. The
wine's energy carries it fresh for days after
the bottle is opened, as it develops from cool,
gentle fruit austerity toward sunny warmth,
the creamy richness amplified in the middle,
then holding tight in the finish. § Taub Family
Selections, Boca Raton, FL -J.G.

$190

2017 Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Poruzots ^ There's chalky-lime earthiness to this
rich Meursault, its creamy notes edged with
orange bitters and nutmeg spice. That smoky
side doesn't overtake the brightness or gentle
cleanness of the finish, its length suggesting
several years of development ahead. § Opici
Wines, Glen Rock, NJ -J.G.

Wine & Spirits - October 2019

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