Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 31

Old-Vine Ribera del Duero
& Milk-Fed Baby Lamb

W
by JOSHUA GREENE

ZO

CHEF ALBITO'S LECHAZO
ROASTING AT EL YUGO DE CASTILLA

e are waiting to cross
the highway, leaving the entrance of Vega-Sicilia. Through
the windshield, across the road, the vines that grow the
estate's most famous wine, Unico, rise up the hill facing us.
Closer to the top, the forest begins, where the hill reaches
toward the high plain that lies to the south, our ultimate
destination for lunch, if the light would ever change.
	Down the road to the right is Valladolid, a city on the
Duero River where, in one of the many castles of Castilla,
550 years ago, Ferdinand II of Aragon married Isabella I,
the princess whose family controlled this northern center
of Iberia. There would have been no intersection here at the
time, no Vega-Sicilia until 400 years later. The road would
have been a cañada real, wide enough for driving a vast
flock of slow-moving sheep instead of this endless stream
of speeding lorries.
	At that moment, centuries ago, this corner of Castilla
was about to become the capital of a country encompassing most of the Iberian Peninsula, uniting disparate, longwarring kingdoms under the new flag of España. It would
become the seat of power from which proclamations drove
the Moors and the Jews out of the new Catholic country-
though Catholics would keep the sheep on vast pasturelands that the Moors had established in Isabella's realm. It
was the local breeds that would bring fame to the asadors of
Castilla as lechazo-slow-roasted milk-fed baby lamb. Valladolid would, for a time, become the center of the Western
World, as Columbus left town with a warrant to explore
the sea routes to the west. And he would die here, an ItalWINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2020

31



Wine & Spirits - June 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 8
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 9
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 10
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 11
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 12
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 13
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 14
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 15
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 16
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 17
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 18
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 19
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 20
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 21
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 22
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 23
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 24
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 25
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 26
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 27
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 28
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 29
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 30
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 31
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 32
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 33
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 34
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 35
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 36
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 37
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 38
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 45
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 46
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 47
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 48
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 49
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 50
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 51
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 52
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 53
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 54
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 65
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 70
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 71
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 72
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 73
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover4
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