Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 40

TOP 100 VALUES
Le Charmel

RO S E
272151

Parparoussis

$19

2018 Achaia Petite Fleur (94 points,
Greece) ^ Athanassios Parparoussis has championed sideritis since the 1970s. He grows
this rare, ruddy-skinned variety at his estate
just a few miles from the coast in Patras,
but there's nothing beachy about the wine.
Instead, it's restrained and elegant, a pale
copper rosé that clads its quiet pear juiciness
in sea-mist saltiness and mineral drive. The
wine lasts for days after opening; serve it one
night as an aperitif; on another, with roast
fish or grilled vegetables, to watch it unfold.
-T.Q.T. (W&S 8/19) ¤ Cava Spiliadis, NY

$15

2018 Côtes de Provence Rosé (91 points,
France) ^ Charles Master and his father, Mel
Master, who also runs Tortoise Creek, scour
the vineyards around Bandol for the fruit for
this wine, a blend of equal parts syrah and
cinsault with some mourvèdre, grenache
and rolle. It's as delicate as its pale pink-gold
color, a subtle rosé focused more on stone
and herb flavors than any particular fruit. A
refreshing salinity runs through it, highlighting the wine's clarity and lift, and making it
terrifically easy to drink. -T.Q.T. (W&S
8/19) ¤ Winesellers, Niles, IL

277286

Cabriz

272353

Ktima Voyatzi

$15

2018 Velvento Rosé (92 points, Greece) ^
Yiannis Voyatzis blends a little tsapournakos
(cabernet franc) into his xinomavro for this
meaty, savory rosé, with forest-green scents
adding briskness to xinomavro's dark fruit.
It's firm and chewy, a rosé made for grilled
meats and hearty summer foods. -T.Q.T.
(W&S 8/19) ¤ Celina Imports, Old Bethpage, NY

$11

2019 Dão Colheita Selecionada Rosé (90
points, Portugal) ^ A rosé of touriga nacional
and the already-light-red alfrocheiro, this is
ripe and fresh, delivering yellow plum and
yellow apple flavors in a clean and delicate
wine for any moment by the beach or in
the mountains this summer. -J.G. ¤ Tri-Vin
Imports, New Rochelle, NY
271044

Fortant

$11

2018 Pays d'Oc Coastal Rosé Grenache (88
points, France) ^ A light, pale rosé, this has
delicate notes of herbs and underripe strawberries. -T.Q.T. (W&S 8/19) ¤ Boisset Collection, St. Helena, CA

RE D

124556

Salentein

517207

Ferrari-Carano

$15

2018 Sonoma County Dry Sangiovese
Rosé (91 points) ^ This friendly wine captures
sangiovese with all its frisky energy. The flavors are spicy, with tomato-skin briskness
and light red fruit that lasts. The color is
vibrant-one taster described it as the yellow-orange of a Honeycrisp apple, another as
translucent black-cherry skin. Give it a chill
and serve with pizza. -J.G. (W&S 8/19) ¤
270931
40

WINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2020

$19

2017 Gualtallary Reserve Malbec (94
points, Argentina) ^ This may be a fraction
of the price of Salentein's Primum Malbec,
but it's just as good, in a completely different
style. There's no spicy oak or tobacco-scented
tannins boosting the fruit here; instead, it's
just pure, fresh, floral malbec, purple and
bright. Herbal notes add a cool spice, giving it a vibrant Andean feel. -T.Q.T. (W&S
10/19) ¤ Palm Bay Int'l, Port Washington, NY
125150

Pisano

$18

2018 Progreso Río de los Pájaros Reserve
Tannat (93 points, Uruguay) ^ Consider
clay-limestone soils with a strong climate
influence from the Atlantic coast, considerably closer to the coast, in fact, than tannat's
native Madiran in Southwest France. Then

smell the flowers and the spice in this wine,
the lasting complexity in a graceful line of
red-fruit flavor, the mineral edge to that
fruit for which you'd pay handsomely if this
wine were from a noted producer in France.
And then wonder at the price: a strong panel
favorite, and a favorite of this critic, while
none of us knew it was $18. Buy it by the case.
-J.G. (W&S 2/20) ¤ Total Wine & More, MD
272264

Argatia

$19

P.S. Garcia

$20

Domaine Charles Gonnet

$20

2016 Macedonia Haroula (93 points,
Greece) ^ Haroula Spinthiropoulou, one of
the most respected agronomists in Greece,
runs this winery with her husband, Panagiotis Georgiadis, on the edge of the Naoussa
appellation. She grows a range of varieties here; this blend showcases xinomavro,
the local favorite, with negoska and mavrodaphne, to create an exuberant wine, its
sweet spiced-cherry flavors layered with
notes of licorice and earth. And while it
feels gentle, it has an internal strength that
keeps it fresh for days after opening. -T.Q.T.
(W&S 8/19) ¤ Verity Wine Partners, NY
124431
2016 Valle del Itata Bravado (93 points,
Chile) ^ Felipe Garcia makes this wine from
two vineyards. One is young-vine syrah; the
other is carignan, grenache, mourvedre and
petit verdot grafted onto the 120-year-old
roots of país vines. He ages it in old neutraloak casks for 18 months, and there's no indication of wood in the wine; there's just fragrant and delicious fruit, along with chewy,
savory tannins. It reminded one taster of a
clearing in the forest, and the fruit does last
with a cool, foresty tone. It's a mood-changing wine, and if you've ever spent time in
Chile, or in its much more highly populated
corollary, the California coast, it's sure to
make you happy. -J.G. (W&S 10/19) ¤ Vine
Connections, Sausalito, CA
276280
2018 Vin de Savoie Mondeuse (93 points,
France) ^ Based in Chignin, Charles Gonnet farms 32 acres of vines, including some
mondeuse, a tannic red that performs at the
top of its game in Savoie. Here, its tannins
form a cool, stony avalanche of flavor, as
if the grapes are in service to minerals, the
bright, elegant fruit reverberating within that
crush of tannins. It's a beautiful wine, and
the cost of entry makes it a steal. Grab some
for grilled meats this summer. -J.G. (W&S
4/20) ¤ Massanois Imports, NY
274883


https://www.tri-vin.com/wines/portugal/quinta-de-cabriz-colheita-selecionada-rose-2019/ http://www.ktimavoyatzi.gr https://www.ferrari-carano.com/wine-release/2019-ferrari-carano-dry-sangiovese-rose/

Wine & Spirits - June 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 7
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 9
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202104
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201306
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/drm_test
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201110
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com