Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 41

TOP 100 VALUES
Marcolino Sébo

$20

2015 Alentejo Visconde de Borba Reserva
(93 points, Portugal) ^ Jorge Santos selects
this fruit from the Sébo family's vineyards, a
blend of aragonez, alicante bouschet, trincadeira and tinta caiada that he ferments in
lagars while controlling the temperature.
Aged in a mix of French and American oak,
it's a sunny and grand Alentejo red, capturing
the ripeness of the region's fruit and delivering it with elegance, grace and persistence.
Notes of spicy black peppercorn, dark berry
and ripe fig integrate with black mushroom
and soy, layered in a way that would parallel
Cantonese soy-sauce chicken.-J.G. (W&S
2/20) ¤ Aidil Wines & Liquors, Newark, NJ
125192

Nieto Senetiner

$15

Luís Duarte

$16

2018 Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon (92
points, Argentina) ^ This is firm and balanced, delivering beefy berry flavors with
firm, fine tannins, bright, fresh acidity and
radish-like spice. Stock up on it for barbecue
season. -T.Q.T. (W&S 4/20) ¤ Foley Family
Artisan Imports, Santa Rosa, CA
274742
2017 Alentejo Maravista (92 points, Portugal) ^ Luís Duarte built his career at Esporão,
not far from where he planted 160 acres of
vines at his Terra Calma estate in Reguengos
de Monsaraz. He harvests this fruit at night,
fermenting it in stainless steel, then aging it
in 500-liter French oak barrels. The blend is
62 percent aragonez, deepened by alicante
bouschet and cabernet. It's the aragonez that
drives it, putting to shame tempranillos you
might find for twice the price in Rioja. Here,
the tart plum flavors have a bright, sunny
tomato-skin edge. It's a great choice with a
sausage and mushroom pizza. -J.G. (W&S
2/20) ¤ Specialty Cellars, Hermosa Beach, CA
272942

Suertes del Marqués

$18

2017 Tenerife Valle de la Orotava Viñas
Viejas La Solana Listán Negro (92 points,
Spain) ^ From 80 to 150 years old, trained as
cordon trenzado, this grows in clay over volcanic rock. Jonatan García Lima ferments the
wine with ambient yeasts in concrete tanks,
leaving half of the fruit as whole bunches. It's
dark and concentrated, needing several days
of air to show itself more completely. Then
it reveals an old-vine intensity of sour blackcherry and black-currant flavors, bright, gripping and wild. -J.G. (W&S 10/19) ¤ Polaner
Selections, Mount Kisco, NY
125034

Alpha Box & Dice

$20

2018 McLaren Vale Tarot (92 points, Australia) ^ Sam Berketa makes this wine from

two vineyard sites, most of it destemmed and
inoculated with cultured yeast, ten percent
fermented as whole clusters with a spontaneous fermentation. It ages together for
six months in tank, emerging a bit oxygen
starved and reduced, with the green leafiness
of persimmon and the tart red fruit of sour
plums. That fruit is almost more pink than
red, layered and funky, with plenty of structural integrity. The flavor impact is lasting,
an intriguing grenache for duck prosciutto
and other cured meats. -J.G. (W&S 2/20) ¤
AB&D, Carmel, CA
125073

d'Arenberg

$20

2017 McLaren Vale The Footbolt Shiraz
(92 points, Australia) ^ The Osborn family
has been growing grapes for more than 100
years, ever since John Osborn sold his collection of racehorses, including Footbolt,
to buy their original vineyards. During the
South Australia government-sponsored vine
pull of the 1980s, d'Arry Osborn and his son,
Chester, bought up a lot of old vineyards and
continue to preserve them today. The Footbolt includes fruit from vines aged 20 to 100
years, traditionally fermented and blended
into a supple, black-fruited wine of gentle
power. Umami undertones of roasted meat
and mushrooms warm the tannins, while the
clean, rich fruit lasts. This will bring some
sophistication to a cookout. -J.G. (W&S
2/20) ¤ Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA

125156

Bodega Garzón

$20

2018 Garzón Reserva Tannat (92 points,
Uruguay) ^ Germán Bruzzone ferments this
tannat in cement, then ages it in a mix of
French oak barrels and casks, creating a
clean, austerely tannic red that lightens up
and feels coastal in the end. It's frisky with
turmeric and green-peppercorn scents, lasting on meaty dark fruit. Structured and
savory, this will age well over the next several years, or decant it now for a salad of duck
confit. -J.G. (W&S 2/20) ¤ Pacific Highway
Wines, Greensboro, NC
124681

Innocent Bystander

$20

2016 Yarra Valley Syrah (92 points, Australia) ^ Beautifully fragrant, harmonious in

its notes of green peppercorn, green olive
and chorizo, this is a meaty syrah with cranberry and porcini flavors. It offers a bright
and brisk line of fruit-an earthy pleasure,
not full, but complete. -J.G. (W&S 10/19) ¤
Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA
277094

De Restia

$20

Clos de Nit

$12

Domaine Laurens

$15

Tabalí

$15

2015 Ribera del Duero de Restia  ^(92
points, Spain) Resalte de Peñafiel produces
this wine for the Restivo family, who run
Biagio Cru and Estate Wines. Restia was the
family name before their ancestors left Spain
for Southern Italy. Enrique Andrades makes
this wine from mature vines, a blend of fruit
from the sandy soils of Padilla de Duero and
the limestone soils of Peñafiel. The hot, dry
season of 2015 created this powerful, blackfruited Ribera del Duero, still presenting
itself as a young tough five years out. There's
a tense, floral beam of ripe red-currant flavor
emerging from the darkness, taking the rusticity and tannic grip toward a richer future.
-J.G. ¤ Biagio Cru and Estate Wines, New Hyde
Park, NY
273242
2015 Montsant Crianza (91 points, Spain) ^
This blend of garnatxa, cariñena and syrah
feels cool and velvety, with notes of blackberry jam, baked strawberries and meaty,
savory tannins. One panelist, taken by the
floral and herbal notes that pointed up the
syrah, said, "I would drink this over a lot of
more expensive Rhône-style wines." -J.G.
(W&S 10/19) ¤ Winesellers, Niles, IL
273371
2018 Marcillac Cuvée Pierres Rouges
Mansois (91 points, France) ^ Based in the
medieval town of Clairvaux, the Laurens
family have worked with fer servadou (locally
known as mansois) since 1975. They offer a
textbook version here, smoky and gravelly
in its tannins, and dark in black-currant flavor. It's also salty and peppery, with a curedsausage flavor that makes it especially palate-whetting. -T.Q.T. (W&S 10/19) ¤ Potomac
Selections, Landover, MD
125553
2019 Maipo Valley Pedregoso Gran
Reserva DOM Cabernet Sauvignon (91
points, Chile) ^ The DOM vineyard is in the
coastal mountains above the Maipo River, a
cool, windy site facing south. That exposure,
away from the sun, gives this wine a bright
strawberry coolness while its meaty tannins
taste like steak tartare. Restrained and gentle, this lasts on floral spice. You won't find
cabernet sauvignon with this quiet gentleWINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2020

41


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Wine & Spirits - June 2020

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Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 3
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
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