Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 62

YEAR'S BEST RIBERA DEL DUERO
276813

90 | Convento
	 San Francisco

$30

2015 Ribera del Duero Crianza ^ Selected
from a range of vineyards throughout Ribera
del Duero, half of which are pre-phylloxera,
dating to as early as 1907, this is a bold and
juicy wine with cool, fragrant flavors of
red and black fruit. It has the freshness of
wine from vines rooted in limestone and
harvested at the right moment. The forest
floor and gamey notes had Nacho Monclús
of Brooklyn's Camperdown Elm musing, "I
would drink the whole bottle." ¤ MundoVino/
Winebow Imports, NY
276875

90 | Figuero

$68

2017 Ribera del Duero Tinto Figuero
Viñas Viejas ^ José María García and Milagros Figuero farm 131 acres of vineyards,
this wine coming from a selection of their
oldest vines around the town of La Horra,
growing in gravelly clay and sand at altitudes
around 2,700 feet. It ages for 15 months in
new French oak, then a year in bottle. The
old vines seem to have gracefully weathered
the challenges of 2017, producing a full-on
tempranillo that feels like silk and suede as it
yields up its earthy power. It turns chocolaterich with air, suggesting this is best enjoyed
now, with grilled lamb, or put away for five
years, when the oak might begin to recede. ¤
Quintessential, Napa, CA
273153

90 | Bodegas Peñafiel

$35

2014 Ribera del Duero Mironia Reserva ^
Mostly tinto fino (95 percent), with a little cabernet sauvignon, this blend ages in
French oak barrels for 18 months. The fruit is
tense and juicy, the finish a little candied, lifting the tart bitter-black elements of the fruit
and targeting them at lamb meatballs. (W&S
10/19) ¤ Wine Trust Cellars, Southbury, CT
273144

90 | Bodegas Peñafiel

$65

2015 Ribera del Duero Miros de Ribera
Reserva Colección Privada ^ Selected from
the winery's estate vineyards in Castrillo de
Duero and aged in French oak for 24 months,
this is a superextracted wine that feels cool
despite its size. The dark red fruit and floral notes make their way through the bacony
62

WINE & SPIRITS

90 | Hermanos
	 Pérez Pascuas

$57

2015 Ribera del Duero Viña Pedrosa
Reserva ^ While this wine has a classical profile in its moderate ripeness and tart red fruit,
the oak feels more ambitiously handled than
that fruit might comfortably accommodate.
For now, the oak tannins blunt the finish,
adding weight and some bitterness. But give
it time and that aspect should resolve, bringing out the wine's gaminess and austere complexity. ¤ Think Global, Santa Barbara, CA
277342

90 | Dominio de Pingus

$32

2017 Ribera del Duero Psi ^ Peter Sisseck
founded his Psi project in 2006, working
to train local growers in organic and biodynamic viticulture. He released his first vintage in 2007, with gentle extractions and
minimal new oak. Fast-forward to the challenging 2017 vintage and the latest release
sustains some blueberry and currant-jam flavors, but it's the oak tannins that dominate.
It's a smoky, meaty red to pour with braised
lamb. ¤ The Rare Wine Co., Brisbane, CA

$25

2015 Ribera del Duero Baron de Filar Crianza ^ Clean and fresh, this wine's high-toned
fruit has a light juiciness, bringing to mind
the crunch of cranberries and plums. It's tart,
with an umami note of mushrooms, a wine to
pour with Thanksgiving turkey, or with the
dark meat of roast game birds. (W&S 10/19) ¤
Wine Trust Cellars, Southbury, CT
273131

90 | Bodegas Peñafiel

richness of the oak to last with an anise-like
spice. Built to cellar. (W&S 10/19) ¤ Wine Trust
Cellars, Southbury, CT
276933

JUNE 2020

277093

90 | Protos

$75

2014 Ribera del Duero Reserva ^ There's
plenty to love in this wine, from the casual
elegance of its fragrant black fruit to the delicious freshness. Then, as the wine opens with
air, the oak begins to take charge, its tannins
burning a bit in the end. Cellar this to mellow
that oak and it should develop into a beauty. ¤
Monsieur Touton Selection, NY

276948

90 | Tamaral

$39

90 | Bodegas Veganzones

$16

90 | Vizcarra

$25

88 | Arrocal

$19

88 | Emilio Moro

$17

86 | Bodegas Peñafiel

$15

2014 Ribera del Duero Reserva ^ A fresh,
bright 2014, this wine has tart red-plum flavors that fill it with a juicy core of fruit while
the darker tannins bring some tension to the
structure. ¤ Tropical Wine Imports, Puerto Rico
277253
2018 Ribera del Duero Viejo Mundo Tempranillo (Best Buy) ^  This has the gamey
sweetness of lacquered duck, with spice-box
scents and flavors of plum and cranberry. It's
bright, clean and refreshing, with orange-zest
acidity. ¤ Vintage Wine Marketing, Napa, CA
276892
2018 Ribera del Duero Senda del Oro ^ Juan
Carlos Vizcarra grows this fruit in Mambrilla,
at an elevation of 2,785 feet, working with
vines his family planted in 1987. The wine's
bright red-cherry flavors are lush and lovely,
feeling concentrated and ripe, the tannins
lending a vegetal, earthy note to ground
them. For brisket. ¤ Olé & Obrigado Imports,
New Rochelle, NY
277050
2018 Ribera del Duero Arrocal (Best Buy) ^
Open and yielding in its fruit, this has the
crunch of crab apples and umeboshi plums.
It's the sour side of tempranillo, a wine for
Japanese grilled duck or wagyu. ¤ Grapes of
Spain, Lorton, VA
277147
2018 Ribera del Duero Finca Resalso (Best
Buy) ^ Scents of lavender and flavors of raspberries infuse this dense 2018. It's bright and
lifted, heady with alcohol and spice, a wine to
serve at cellar temperature with a steak. ¤ USA
Wine West, Sausalito, CA
276908
2018 Ribera del Duero Miros de Ribera
Roble (Best Buy) ^ This tinto fino includes ten
percent merlot and five percent cabernet sauvignon in a simple, tense and floral red. It's
juicy and clean, dark and ripe. Pour it while
you're grilling this summer. ¤ Gironde Logistics
and Services, Southbury, CT n


https://www.tamaral.com/en/tamaral-reserva/ https://www.bodegasprotos.com/en/wine/reserva/

Wine & Spirits - June 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 5
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover4
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