Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 68

NORTH AMERICAN NEW RELEASES
cherry flavors carry straight past the espressolike tannins. It's bright, with an undertone of
smoke, easy to enjoy in its youth, alongside
pepper-crusted duck breast. -J.G. ¤
519992

88 | Precision

$36

2018 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
(Best Buy) ^ The superripe flavors of black
plums and prunes fill this fruity cabernet. It's
sweet and soft, a wine for braised beef. -J.G. ¤

MERLOT
520095

93 | Taub

$45

2016 Oakville Napa Valley Merlot ^ Marc
Taub, scion of one of America's most successful wine-importing families, acquired
Heritance in Napa Valley in 2013 and rechristened it Taub. Now he and his son Jake work
with Tom Hinde, who oversees the winemaking. This dry-farmed merlot includes a
small percentage of malbec and petite verdot. And while it sees a substantial amount of
new oak (75 percent of the barrels) during its
22 months of aging, it's bursting with freshness, a tight, floral merlot with succulent fruit
inside structural tension. Scents of roses and
August tomatoes last, making this a pretty
great value at the price. -J.G. (57 cases)  ¤
520098

92 | Taub

$45

2014 Oakville Napa Valley Merlot ^ Quiet
intensity drives this lush merlot, the elder
sibling of the 2016, also recommended here.
This vintage is earthy and round, with dark,
concentrated fruit. The zestiness of that fruit,
combined with the velvet texture, delivers a
Napa Valley merlot with engaging appeal.
-J.G. (49 cases)  ¤

94 | Joseph Jewell

$60

93 | Long Meadow Ranch

$42

2016 Russian River Valley Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Kirk Lokka dry farms this
vineyard in Green Valley, planted in 2003;
Adrian Manspeaker, who has worked with
Lokka's grapes since 2010, notes the increasing depth and concentration in the wine as
the vines have matured, their roots exploring the Goldridge soils. Though our tasting
sheet read "Russian River Valley 2016," my
notes read "rainbows in Green Valley," the
wine's richness and beautiful clarity recalling
the sun hitting a rain shower in these coastal
hills. The black-cherry fruit shows some evolution, in notes of soy and black mushroom,
while the oak feels seamlessly integrated,
broadening the wine as the fruit contracts,
then opens again into the light-driven color
spectrum of the finish. -J.G. (175 cases)  ¤
519968
2017 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ^ Stéphane
Vivier, a Burgundian who had been making
the wines at Hyde de Villaine, now works at
Long Meadow Ranch's organically farmed
estate in the Deep End of Anderson Valley
(certified CCOF as of the 2017 vintage). This
pinot noir comes mostly from vines planted
in 1996 and 2000. It feels healthy and fresh,
as tight as a rosebud when it's just about to
burst. There's a sunny warmth to the wine's
tart pomegranate flavors, and though oak
diminishes some of the fruit expression now
(25 percent of the barrels were new), the delicacy and spring-water clarity of the flavors
suggests unfettered development ahead.
-J.G. (2,555 cases)  ¤

PINOT NOIR
519973

94 | Alma Fria

$70

2017 Sonoma Coast Doc's Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ This pinot noir grows at a
vineyard in Occidental, in the midst of redwood groves four miles from the Pacific. Carroll Kemp, partner and winemaker at Alma
Fria in Annapolis, worked with this vineyard
when he was at Red Car; this 2017 is, in fact,
his last vintage (Ross Cobb took over the
lease in 2018). Kemp makes this wine without
any additions but for some sulfur; he picks
the grapes at night, when they are cool, and
does not control the temperature of his fermentations. The result is a gentle, fragrant
wine with soaring clarity to its tart red-cherry
flavors. The texture is luscious, the earthy
tannins in tune with the fruit. There's a fresh
oceanic salinity that lasts, delicious with roast
quail or other game birds. -J.G. (195 cases)  ¤
520350
68

WINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2020

519950

92 | Ferrari-Carano

$52

2018 Mendocino Ridge Sky High Ranch
Pinot Noir ^ In 2006, Ferrari-Carano purchased the Sky High Ranch, now 22 planted
acres on a ridgetop in the hills northwest of
Boonville, six miles from the Pacific. In 2018,
it grew a big, deliciously rich pinot, its saturation transformed into an elegant red-fruit
glow by the cool beach-rose notes it gained
while ripening at more than 1,500 feet in
elevation. Those rose scents last, along with
peppercorn and rosemary. Pour it with quail
roasted with fresh herbs. -J.G. (700 cases)  ¤
520347

92 | Joseph Jewell

$39

2017 Humboldt County Ryan Vineyard
Pinot Noir ^ Adrian Jewell Manspeaker
knew this site when he was a kid and it was
a meadow above the Eel River. He returned
there after it had been planted with vines and
now makes this crunchy pinot from its fruit.
It's a cold, green mountain wine and, at first,
the oak influence of its aging gets in the way
of the cool-climate scents of raspberry and
rose petals. As the oak recedes with a day of
air, the fresh red-cherry flavors feel tart and
intense; they would be refreshing with unaju-grilled eel over rice, traditionally served
in a lacquered box. -J.G. (75 cases)  ¤

519379

90 | Joseph Phelps

$60

90 | Lioco

$25

90 | Twomey

$68

89 | Cep

$30

2017 Sonoma Coast Freestone Vineyards
Pinot Noir ^ This wine's clean lines shepherd
translucent red-berry fruit toward darker tart
cherry-skin flavors. It gains floral notes as it
opens with air, a lush and gentle pinot for
seared duck breast. -J.G. (2,400 cases)  ¤
519995
2018 Mendocino County Pinot Noir (Best
Buy) ^ Meaty and rich, this wine's ripe strawberry flavors have a warm persimmon-like
spice. It's smoky and soft, finishing clean, a
pinot noir for filet mignon. -J.G. ¤
520099
2017 Anderson Valley Monument Tree
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ This is Silver Oak's
pinot noir project, offering a lush Anderson Valley wine with the region's tang and
crunch. The vineyard faces north on Highway 128 in Philo, and the wine is crisp, with
some green notes to its meaty, gamey flavors.
Decant it for roast squab, or cellar it to let the
fruit evolve. -J.G. (492 cases)  ¤
519988
2018 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^
Out on the coast, pinot noir can take on the
crunchy green-peppercorn spice that syrah
does in similarly marginal conditions. This
one is peppery, a little round and rich, finishing with some stamina and some heat. Cep
is the second label of the Peays, this vintage
a blend of declassified barrels from the family's vineyard in Annapolis. -J.G. (575 cases)  ¤
519990


https://shop.josephphelps.com/SHOP.AMS https://www.ferrari-carano.com/wine-release/2018-ferrari-carano-sky-high-ranch-pinot-noir/

Wine & Spirits - June 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - 6
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Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - June 2020 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202108
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/202104
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/winespirits/201212
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