Wine & Spirits - August 2020 - 43

noir on limestone soils, some with loess (in
Knichelt), some with clay (in Ruest). This
wine blends fruit from both, aged in oak barrels for nine months, building into a bright
raspberry essence that's structured more by
acidity than tannins. The fruit deepens to
sweet plum and blackberry flavor, sustaining
the cut of red-apple-skin crispness. § Maritime
Wine Trading Collective, San Francisco, CA
277610

90 | Christian Binner

$30

2017 Alsace Hinterberg Pinots ^ Christian
Binner planted 1.2 acres of pinot noir on this
south-facing hillside, using a massal selection
from Philippe Pacalet's vines in Burgundy.
Binner ferments the wine as whole clusters
in foudres, with no additions, bottling it unfiltered without using sulfur. It's tart and tangy,
with red fruit and some volatility adding to
its natty feel. It also feels relaxed and delicately floral, an earthy red to pour with country pâté. § Jenny & François Selections, NY
277661

90 | Dom. Camille Braun

$37

2018 Alsace Nature Pinot Noir ^ Based in
Orschwihr, in southern Alsace, this biodynamic estate is headed up by Christophe
Braun, who farms 37 acres, certified by
Demeter. This pinot noir is overtly natural, the kind of red you might order at Ten
Bells in NYC. There are some brown edges
to the color, but there's also red-berry fruit
that emerges as the wine opens with air. Ironlike tannins and some volatile acidity place
it with boudin noir. § Michael Corso Selections,
Oak Park, IL

DE S S E RT

FOCUS: NORTHERN
ITALIAN PINOT GRIGIO
Our blind panels tasted 17 new-release pinot grigios from northern Italy for this issue.
Stephanie Johnson, our critic for Italy, rated 7 as exceptional (90+) and 3 as Best Buys.
Subscribers can find a list of wines tasted, and all reviews, at wineandspiritsmagazine.

FRIU LI
277798

92 | Vie Di Romans

$37

91 | Lis Neris

$36

2018 Friuli Isonzo Dessimis Pinot Grigio ^
A ramato-style pinot grigio, this underwent
20 hours of cold maceration prior to fermentation, endowing the wine with a deep
salmon hue and notes of mandarin orange,
strawberry and peach tea. Nine months on
the lees in French oak barrels added a creamy
texture, taking the flavors in the direction
of strawberry shortcake, though the wine
stays cool and vibrant. Roasted suckling pig
would make a good match for its rich fruit
and spice. § Vias Imports, NY
277806
2016 Friuli Isonzo Gris Pinot Grigio ^ Broad
and toasty, this has rich flavors of preserved
lemon, white peach and vanilla laced with
notes of smoke and brown spice. Cool, lemony acidity cuts through the creamy texture,
teasing out notes of tarragon on the way to a
balanced, bright finish. § V.O.S. Selections, NY

T RE NTINO-ALTO ADIGE
277447

277766

91 | Abbazia di Novacella

$20

91 | Cantina Terlano

93 | Trimbach

$52

2014 Alsace Vendanges Tardives Gewurztraminer ^ A luscious, ethereal take on apricot preserves, this is gracious in its honeyed
sweetness, and complex in its cool layers of
lemon and orange acidity. It will add depth to
a savory apricot tart. § Taub Family Selections,
Boca Raton, FL
277765

93 | Trimbach

2019 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio (Best Buy) ^
Brisk acidity washes this wine's flavors of
lime and crisp apple across the palate like
mountain spring water. Notes of lemongrass
add dimension to the cool fruit tones, and a
chalky texture knits the flavors together in
a focused frame. § Abbazia di Novacella/USA
Wine West, Sausalito, CA
277481

$68

$25

2009 Alsace Vendanges Tardives Pinot
Gris ^ This pinot gris has aged into its succulent and generous ripeness, the lees transformed to hazelnut richness, the wine elegant on a grand scale. Along with cheeses
and nuts, this will elevate an after-dinner
conversation. Or the baker on our tasting
panel suggested the wine as a counterpoint
to a walnut-orange tart drizzled with bitter chocolate. § Taub Family Selections, Boca
Raton, FL n

2019 Alto Adige Tradition Pinot Grigio ^
This wine unfolds with flavors of juicy pear,
lemon and apple woven together by lively
acidity. Its taut flavors make it a refreshing
aperitif, though the light phenolic grip also
suggests this will stand up well to freshwater
fish or mellow cheeses. § Banville Wine Merchants, NY
277504

90 | Alois Lageder

$26

90 | Cantina Andriano

$21

90 | Kellerei Kaltern

$27

87 | Cantina di Caldaro

$16

87 | Terra Alpina 

$16

2018 Alto Adige Porer Pinot Grigio ^ Sourcing fruit from Demeter-certified vines aged
14 to 31 years old, the Lageder family vinifies the grapes for this wine in three different
ways: One part is pressed immediately after
harvest, a second part undergoes 15 hours of
skin contact and the third component stays in
contact with the skins and stems for one year.
In 2018, those components came together in
a copper-tinted wine that is round and glossy,
with notes of toast and caramel that give way
with air to flavors of white peach and tangerine. Its savory tones and leesy bitterness
call for dishes like smoked salmon or creamy
pasta. § Dalla Terra, Napa, CA
277476
2019 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio ^ This pinot
grigio is crisp and refreshing, its flavors of
citrus and golden pear buoyed by mouthwatering acidity. Pleasant as an aperitif, it
gains subtle spice notes and a pithy bitterness that make it a versatile option for the
dinner table. § Banville Wine Merchants, NY
277580
2018 Alto Adige Soll Pinot Grigio ^ The
vines that produce Soll grow on a slope that
reaches up to 980 feet above sea level, where
cool breezes preserve the acidity that gives
this wine a tangy brightness. Notes of toffee
and apple-pie spice enrich its yellow-apple
flavors, adding complexity. § Enotec Imports,
Denver, CO
277578
2018 Alto Adige Pinot Grigio (Best Buy) ^
This is light and spritzy, with hints of green
herbs and brown spices accenting the wine's
pear flavors. § Enotec Imports, Denver, CO
277509
2019 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Pinot Grigio (Best Buy) ^ Produced by Alois Ladeger
in partnership with local growers, this wine
weaves notes of lemon zest and Alpine herbs
through tangy citrus flavors. Serve it well
chilled, with a plate of salumi. § Dalla Terra,
Napa, CA n
WINE & SPIRITS

AUGUST 2020

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Wine & Spirits - August 2020

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