Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 101

US NEW RELEASES
rie's mother, this wine smells of bright cherry
and cinnamon, the flavors full and firm, the
whole-cluster elements and the oak combining for a guided, wood-driven finish. -P.J.C.
(504 cases) §
521471

91 | Evening Land

$100

2017 Eola-Amity Hills Anden Seven
Springs Estate Pinot Noir ^ Intensely smoky
when first poured, as sharp as the scent of
mezcal, this hides notes of red fruit and dark
berries beneath the haze of smoke. With air,
it gains composure, rendering the wine cool
and elegant, a marriage of caramel, smoke,
purple plum and vinous, barky elements,
before the cluster spice renders a mildly bitter finish. Cellar. -P.J.C. (321 cases) §
520550

90 | Bergström

$42

2018 Willamette Valley Cumberland
Reserve Pinot Noir ^ Bergström's entry-level
pinot feels ripe and heady when first poured,
with a juicy red-cherry scent limned with a
bit of red dust. The flavors are much more
refined, delivered with lean elegance and
with a mild tobacco savor to the tannins.
Substantial enough for duck. -P.J.C. (4,210
cases) §
521416

90 | Bethel Heights

$50

2018 Eola-Amity Hills Aeolian Pinot Noir ^
Tense and a bit floral when first poured, this
wine smells of violets and red berries, with
a touch of green that firms up the finish. It
needs a little time to come together, before
a meal built around roast quail. -P.J.C. (398
cases) §
521464

90 | Cristom

$35

2018 Willamette Valley Mt. Jefferson
Cuvée Pinot Noir ^ Dry and turfy, this feels
angular and grippy, with a tight weave and
mineral grip that gears it toward a meal,
something like duck breast. -P.J.C. §

WA S H I N GT O N W HIT E
CHARDONNAY
521413

93 | W.T. Vintners

$39

2018 Columbia Gorge Rainmaker Vineyard Chardonnay ^ From a cool south-facing
vineyard on the western edge of the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge AVA,
this wine is as pretty as a mountain stream,
with scents of crisp apple and slightly more
broad golden pear. It feels delicate and
focused, with a kind of wind-drawn tension.
For roasted whole trout. -P.J.C. (120 cases) §

CHENIN BLANC
521369

88 | L'Ecole No 41

$15

2019 Yakima Valley Old Vines Chenin
Blanc (Best Buy) ^ From four vineyards, each
planted before 1980, this 2019 is bright and
grainy, with a citrusy scent, youthful acids
and vibrant apple and pear flavors. For a
picnic. -P.J.C. (4,350 cases) §

(also recommended here) but no less precise, driven by vibrant, persistent acids that
provide inner tension and elegance. -P.J.C.
(635 cases) §

MARSANNE
521433

90 | Reynvaan

$250/1.5L

2017 Walla Walla Valley Marsanne ^ Bottled
in magnum, this is sumptuous and heady
when first poured, with a golden-raisin sweetness and lush golden-pear accents. The flavors are rich and emollient, simple, weighty
and succulent, with the neutral bearing for a
crab feast. -P.J.C. (62 cases) §

WA SHINGTON ROSÉ
521366

90 | L'Ecole No 41

$22

2019 Horse Heaven Hills Alder Ridge Vineyards Grenache Rosé ^ From a vast southfacing vineyard overlooking the Columbia
River, this luscious pink captures the sunny
disposition of the place, with cherry-strawberry scents that give way to broadly pink
fruit flavors. A tart phenolic line cuts into all
the richness and provides the grip for lamb
kebabs. -P.J.C. (1,040 cases) §

WA SHINGTON RED
BORDEAUX-VARIETY BLENDS
521332

95 | Andrew Will

$78

2017 Horse Heaven Hills Champoux Vineyard ^ A joyous blend of about 40 percent
each of cabernet franc and merlot (the balance cabernet sauvignon), this amounts to a
return to form for this venerable Washington
winery. Cedary wood notes and dark carob
and blackberry scents lead, and the flavors
fall into line from there: red cherry and red
plum, a shred of tobacco, a prickle of acidity. It radiates vitality, nimble and red fruited,
with a brightness within the structure that
gives it the feel of a Bordeaux varietal wine
unleashed. -P.J.C. (650 cases) §
521335

95 | Andrew Will

$89

2017 Horse Heaven Hills Champoux Vineyard Sorella ^ Dominated by cabernet sauvignon, Sorella is dark and ever so slightly
menthol, purple in its fruit expression and
formidable in its tannins. It's more massive than the Champoux Vineyard bottling

521328

94 | àMaurice Cellars

$60

94 | DeLille Cellars

$98

93 | àMaurice Cellars

$40

93 | Andrew Will

$67

2017 Walla Walla Valley Night Owl ^ An
estate-grown blend of 56 percent merlot, 21
percent cabernet franc, 16 percent petit verdot and 7 percent cabernet sauvignon, this
is briary and spicy, with scents of licorice,
mocha and peppercorn. The flavors are dark
plum, the cedar-scented tannins fine enough
for roast chicken. -P.J.C. (467 cases) §
521353
2017 Snipes Mountain Harrison Hill ^
From an old-vine north-facing site on Snipes
Mountain, in the heart of the Yakima Valley,
this blend of mostly cabernet and merlot is
grainy and herbaceous when first poured,
lighter than many cab-based blends from
Washington. The fruit is limpid and pure,
weightless, lasting with a clarity of line and
starburst acidity for days. -P.J.C. (283 cases) §
521327
2017 Columbia Valley Artist Series Schafer Blend ^ A blend of 45 percent cabernet
sauvignon, 38 percent merlot and 17 percent
cabernet franc, this wine has a cool, savory
tone from the first whiff, marrying rose
petal, sun-dried tomato, cedar and plum.
The flavors are smoky and granular, with
dark spiced-plum flavors and lean, angular
tannins. It will age beautifully. -P.J.C. (750
cases) §
521334
2017 Yakima Valley Two Blondes Vineyard ^
In 2017, this cuvée is floral and herbal, reflecting Yakima's cooler climate and the relatively
high elevation of its site. Mostly merlot and
cabernet sauvignon, it has curiously savory
aromas, scents of smoke and caraway, herb
seeds and carob. The flavors are dark but
they don't brood for long, buoyed by almost
WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2020

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Wine & Spirits - October 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 10
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 11
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 12
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 18
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 19
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 20
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 50
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 101
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 111
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover4
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