Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 69

90 | Château des Jacques

$40

2017 Moulin-à-Vent Clos des Thorins ^ Cyril
Chirouze makes this wine from a small parcel
of old vines, aging it six months in barrels.
That oak presence is immediately apparent
in the aroma and the weight of the tannic
extract; with air, the texture transforms that
power into generosity, lasting with the richness of a flourless chocolate cake. This is a
concentrated wine that needs cellar time to
evolve. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
278020

90 | Ch. du Moulin-à-Vent

$42

2017 Moulin-à-Vent ^ This wine's intensity
delivers volumes of tannins and sunny fruit.
There's an exciting side to the brightness of
the fruit. And there's a volatile side adding
a spike of crushed pepper and cured pork,
which, if you serve it now, might be the food
of choice. § Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA
277974

88 | Maison L'Envoyé

FOCUS:
CAMPANIAN WHITES
Our blind panels tasted 41 Campanian whites ^sfromPvenc for this issue. Stephanie Johnson, our
critic for Italy, rated 24 as exceptional (90+) and 6 as Best Buys. Subscribers can find a
complete list of wines tasted, and all reviews, at wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

B L E NDS
278177

90 | San Salvatore

$24

2018 Paestum Palinuro ^ This is a juicy blend
of fiano, greco and falanghina. Its tart flavors
of apple and citrus rind balance its honeyed
richness, the wine finishing with refreshing
salinity. § Banville Wine Merchants, NY

CODA DI VOLPE

$20

2018 Moulin-à-Vent Terre de Thé (Best
Buy) ^ This is soft and gentle, with light, persistent tannins. It has a dark earthiness, like
black mission figs and black plums, the fruit a
touch syrupy but tightened into a clean finish
by the tannins. § Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA

eral-toned falanghina. A cool, chalky texture
underlines its precise flavors of Honeycrisp
apple and white peach while brisk saline
notes balance its richness. It finishes with a
hint of smoke. § David Bowler Wines, NY
278176

90 | San Salvatore

$24

88 | Tenuta Scuotto

$16

2019 Campania Falanghina ^ This wine's
fleshy peach and golden-apple-skin flavors
mingle in a dense, waxy texture. Its rich fruit
tones and sun-kissed coastal warmth would
match well with grilled mackerel. § Banville
Wine Merchants, NY
278200
2018 Campania Falanghina (Best Buy) ^
Hints of tarragon and brown spice accent this
wine's fleeting flavors of green apple and citrus. § Shiverick Imports, Los Angeles, CA

B E A UJ O L A I S & V IL L A GE S

FIANO
278128
278143

277973

88 | Georges Duboeuf

$14

2019 Beaujolais-Villages (Best Buy) ^ Juicy
and clean, this wine's rich fruit lasts on cherries, along with notes of violets. It's straightforward, almost voluptuous in its cushioned
richness, simple, cheerful and satisfying. §
Quintessential, Napa, CA
277984

88 | Louis Jadot

$13

2019 Beaujolais (Best Buy) ^ Clean and
jammy, with sweet scents of raspberry pie,
this wine has brisk edges of gamey grapeskin tannins to balance its sweetness; for
shepherd's pie. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
277961

87 | Nicolas Potel

$15

2018 Beaujolais-Villages (Best Buy) ^ A
refreshing Beaujolais, this has dark, persistent fruit and some green crunch to its tannins. It's subtle, peppery and bright, a wine
for country pâté. § WinesU, Eddystone, PA n

92 | Vadiaperti

$38

90 | Vadiaperti

$22

2018 Irpinia Torama ^ Raffaele Troisi's deftness with coda di volpe is evident in his 2018
Torama, a special selection of grapes from
high-altitude vineyards. The wine's crisp
apple and pear flavors cut through its creamy,
honeyed texture, the flavors broadening into
notes of white peach. Bright salinity brings
energy and verve to the finish. § North Berkeley
Imports, Berkeley, CA
278187
2018 Irpinia Coda di Volpe (Best Buy) ^ Flavors of Asian pear flow through a soft pinenut texture in this coda di volpe. It's cool and
creamy, like tangerine sherbet, with mild
apple acidity that draws the flavors together. §
North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

FA L A NGHINA
278166

92 | Contrada Salandra

$24

2016 Campi Flegrei Falanghina ^ Phylloxera never took hold in the volcanic soils just
north of Naples, allowing Giuseppe Fortunato and his wife, Sandra, to maintain the
ungrafted vines that produce this juicy, min-

93 | Ciro Picariello

$30

93 | Clelia Romano
	 Colli di Lapio

$26

2018 Fiano di Avellino Ciro 906 ^ In 1990,
Ciro Picariello planted this vineyard, parcel
number 906 on the official Avellino map. It
sits at more than 2,100 feet above sea level,
and Picariello makes wine from it only in
cooler vintages when acidity levels are highest. Its high-toned character shines through
in the wine's abundant scents of white blossoms, mandarin orange and wildflower
honey. Fermented with ambient yeasts, it's
juicy and complex, with citrus flavors that
take on a bright saline streak and savory
hints toward the finish. § Polaner Selections,
Mount Kisco, NY
278119

2018 Fiano di Avellino (Best Buy) ^ This
estate's vines, rooted in the calcareous clay
soils around the high-elevation village of
Lapio, produced a bold fiano in 2018. Vibrant
acidity surges through its rich tones of
golden apple and wildflower honey, propelling the flavors as notes of lime zest and salinity emerge. All of the elements feel elevated
and intense, maintaining a harmonious balance. § Marc de Grazia Imports, Brooklyn, NY
WINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2020

69
http://www.wineandspiritsmagazine.com https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/vadiaperti+torama+coda+di+volpe+campania+italy/2018 http://www.duboeuf.com/Wines/Entry/Item/beaujolais_villages_beaujolais_villages_selection_georges_duboeuf_-4.sls
Wine & Spirits - October 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2020
