Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 72

FOCUS: GIGONDAS & VACQUEYRAS
93 | Château
	 de Saint Cosme

$138

2018 Gigondas Le Claux ^ Le Claux was
planted in 1870 using the first phylloxeraresistant American rootstocks available in
the region, and the vineyard still retains
some of those original vines-about ten
percent, Louis Barruol believes, crediting his
father for his heroic efforts to revive them.
Those old vines, planted in an alluvial fan,
grew a particularly dark, brooding Gigondas
in 2018. It's chewy and dense, with black-fig
and blackberry flavors and an intriguingly
earthy, gamey funk, and yet there's still
crunch to the fruit, a vibrancy that keeps it
from feeling too heavy. Built for a thick-cut
steak, or a decade in the cellar. § Craft + Estate/
Winebow Imports, NY
278497

92 | Château
	 de Montmirail

92 | Domaine du Pradas

$37

2016 Gigondas ^ This domaine is run by
Elisa Cheron, the eldest daughter of Yves
Cheron of Domaine du Grand Montmirail.
Her vineyard sits high into the Dentelles de
Montmirail, planted in a mix of alluvial red
clay and scree surrounded by forest. A cool,
protected site prone to late ripening, it grew
a lush Gigondas in 2016, with an untamed
quality to it: While the heart of the wine has a
Luxardo cherry intensity, notes of fraises des
bois, cherry leaves and bitters-like spice give
it a wild edge. It lasts, with a tannic structure
that promises to hold it well as it ages in the
cellar. § Serge Doré Selections, Chappaqua, NY
278498
$40

2017 Gigondas Font des Aieux ^ From a patch
of vines averaging 80 years old, growing on
clay mixed with limestone, this is a tangy and
elegant Gigondas. There's a light spice that's
woodsy, like cedar tips, and warm, like cassia bark, adding depth and complexity to the
red fruit. § Kindred Vines Import Co., Troy, MI
278494

91 | Alain Jaume

$42

2017 Gigondas Terrasses de Montmirail ^
From the négociant arm of Alain Jaume at
Domaine Grand Veneur, this is bright, fresh
and tangy, the flavors all very red-cranberry
and tart currant, cherry and the bright red
72

WINE & SPIRITS

91 | Mas des Restanques

$28

2017 Gigondas ^ From an organically farmed
vineyard that borders Vacqueyras and fermented spontaneously in concrete, this is a
pretty Gigondas, lithe and lifted, with brisk
acidity and fine-grained tannins shaping the
floral red fruit. You could drink this with a
variety of foods, from roast chicken to kimchi
dumplings. § Golden Ram Imports, NY

$38

2017 Gigondas Cuvée de Beauchamp ^ The
Archimbaud-Bouteiller family runs this 111acre estate, the land split between Gigondas
and Vacqueyras. This bottling is spice-driven
and high-toned, with tart sour-cherry flavors
and an appetizing Campari-like bitterness. §
Kindred Vines Import Co., Troy, MI
278495

92 | Domaine
	 de la Tourade

flesh of a purple plum. The alcohol and finegrained tannins add extra spice and enough
power to wrestle with a lamb chop. § Kysela
Père et Fils, Winchester, VA
278493

OCTOBER 2020

ROSÉ
278505

93 | Roucas Toumba

$20

2019 Vacqueyras Rosé de la Rouche (Best
Buy) ^ This is no summertime quaff; it's a
serious wine that happens to be paler than
most reds. Eric Bouletin, who's been singlehandedly running this Vacqueyras estate
since the early 2000s, blends it from three
distinct cuvées: a direct-press grenache vinified in enameled stainless steel tanks and two
lots aged in 500-liter barrels-one a saignée
blend of syrah and grenache, the other a
blend of mourvèdre with white varieties. The
wine's orange-red hue parallels its scents of
strawberries, candied orange rind and white
cherries, which carry through in flavor, too.
Mouthfilling in its satiny texture, yet not at
all heavy, this quiet powerhouse would pair
well with fried anchovies or ratatouille. § Regal
Wine Imports, Moorestown, NJ

RED

278487

90 | Domaine La
	Bouïssière

$42

90 | Famille Perrin

$39

278502

2017 Gigondas ^ This is dark and generous,
with ripe red-cherry and plum flavors powered by tarry earth and the spice of alcohol.
For all its ripeness, it maintains shape and
definition, with notes of seedy strawberries
and fresh fennel adding crunch and tang. §
North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
278489
2018 Gigondas La Gille ^ The Perrin family
sources La Gille from vineyards just south of
the village of Gigondas, where the soils are
sandy and mixed with limestone. In 2018,
the wine seems to reflect the lightness of the
soil in its charm: It's silky and fresh, with flavors of red and black cherries that radiate
a sunny brightness. While it has the structure to develop further, it's enjoyable now,
to drink with a grilled pork chop with cherry
compote. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
278491

90 | Château
	 de Saint Cosme

VAC QUEYRAS

$57

2018 Gigondas ^ As with all of Louis Barruol's
wines, this comes from organically farmed
vines and was fermented as whole bunches
with ambient yeasts; 30 percent aged in
cement tanks while the rest went into a mix
of used and new casks. It feels supple and
relaxed, with a black-pepper spice that reinforces the wine's brisk, fresh acidity. Its foresty herbal notes and inviting demeanor suggest a match with lamb grilled over rosemary. §
Craft + Estate/Winebow Imports, NY

93 | Domaine La Garrigue

$24

93 | Domaine
	 de la Tourade

$29

92 | Mas des Restanques

$21

2018 Vacqueyras ^ Virginie Combe is the
sixth generation to helm her family's 205acre estate, the largest in the appellation,
with nearly 150 of those acres in Vacqueyras proper. She sustains a strictly old-school
regime of whole-bunch fermentations in concrete tanks, an approach that reads clearly in
this meaty, chewy 2018. It's dense and dark,
with gum-sticking tannins, a black wine
slow to reveal its details. But when it does, it
shines, the cherry flavors threaded with notes
of thyme and sunbaked stones. Decant it or
hold it for another five to ten years. § European
Cellars, Charlotte, NC
278504
2018 Vacqueyras ^ Based on old-vine grenache vinified with the stems and aged in
large used barrels, this 2018 feels brisk and
lively, a revelation in this hot, damp vintage.
Its seedy strawberry and raspberry flavors
have crunch and clarity, as well as garriguelike scents that add a sense of place. It's light
enough to match well with vegetable dishes,
or a rosy pork loin served rare. § Kindred Vines
Import Co., Troy, MI
278496
2017 Vacqueyras (Best Buy) ^ Jean-Luc and
Josiane Faraud launched their winery in 2007
and began moving their family's vines to
organic farming, gaining certification (Ecocert) in 2012. Working with destemmed fruit


https://www.wine.com/product/domaine-la-bouissiere-gigondas-2017/616339

Wine & Spirits - October 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 3
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 8
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 9
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 10
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Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - Cover4
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