Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 93

US NEW RELEASES
grates, the alcohol becomes part of the
dynamic whole, layered into the tannins to
highlight their dark-chocolate succulence.
It's generous with blackberry fruit that still
carries its youthful grapiness, structured to
age and evolve over the next ten years. -J.G.
(2,096 cases) §
521283

92 | Corison

$100

2017 St. Helena Napa Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon ^ A tense wine that needs time to
unwind, this is based on western benchland
fruit farmed and harvested for lithe elegance
rather than effusive power. At first, it gives
little aside from rose scents and some sappy
rosewood notes. The fruit comes later as the
tannins relent, offering black-raspberry and
black-currant flavors that are clean and clear.
Cathy Corison takes a long view on her cabernet, building finely structured wines to cellar.
-J.G. (2,200 cases) §
521301

92 | Heitz

$125

2014 Napa Valley Trailside Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon ^ From an organically
farmed estate vineyard in eastern Rutherford, between the Silverado Trail and Conn
Creek, this is a complex and mature cabernet ready to drink on release. The tight structure marries gentle tannins and kirsch-like
cherry fruit while the secondary aromas of
cigar tobacco and roses last long into the finish. It's a refined style, with enough luscious
fruit to keep it firmly rooted in Napa Valley.
-J.G. (2,500 cases) §

90 | Deovlet

$60

2017 Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara
Star Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ^
Happy Canyon is a warm place, but Ryan
Deovlet manages to tease out cool cabernet
character from its warm slopes. This 2017 is
all red fruits, wild cherries and plums, with
an up-front sweetness scored by fine-grained
tannins and a prickle of acidity. Decant this
for steak. -P.J.C. (200 cases) §

GRENACHE
521403

92 | Tablas Creek

$40

2018 Adelaida District Grenache ^ Grenache
with a French feel, the wine leads with vibrant
red-cherry fruit grounded by dusty aromas of
leather and turf-like Gigondas, I wrote in
my notes. With air, the red fruit brightens
into a raspberry sweetness, tethered by the
savory elements. -P.J.C. §
521398

91 | Skinner

$60

91 | Terre Rouge

$35

2018 El Dorado Grenache ^ Pale red in the
glass, this wine has an unexpected depth,
even in its initial aromas of warm plums and
sealing wax, a whiff of turf in the background.
The flavors start off quiet, but in a day the
fruit grows punchy and forward, one warm
bright-red berry note. Give it time in the cellar. -P.J.C. (158 cases) §
521405
2017 Sierra Foothills L'Autre Grenache ^
L'Autre is three-quarters grenache, with the
balance mourvedre and syrah. Bill Easton
lets the Sierra garrigue express itself in the
wine, its wild and brambly elements dusted
with notes of cedar fronds and wild sage.
The flavors are bright crushed-raspberry red,
with a texture that feels poised and slightly
reserved. -P.J.C. (350 cases) §

521314

$56

2017 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ^
This estate-grown cabernet focuses on Silverado's vineyards in the Stags Leap District
and Coombsville, the SLD portion contributing to the wine's blueberry-and-espresso richness, refreshed by cooler cherry notes from
Mt. George to the south. It seems simple at
first, before the wine's tannic density begins
to open with air, its floral detail more apparent. -J.G. §
521360

521292

90 | Duckhorn

$56

2017 Napa Valley Merlot ^ Duckhorn takes
rich and supple Napa Valley merlot in an
elegant direction. While there may be a lot
of juicy blackberry fruit, along with a toasty,
smoky presence of oak, both of those elements serve to elevate the texture. Rather
than complexity, this wine is all about supple
pleasures, with nothing out of place. -J.G. §

MOURVEDRE
521406

93 | Terre Rouge

$32

92 | Skinner

$60

2017 Sierra Foothills Mourvedre (Best
Buy) ^ Dusty and briary, this red has the feel
of a warm chaparral afternoon. The flavors
stay red fruited and bright, but are grounded
by a tobacco-leaf savor and firm tannins. For
tri-tip. -P.J.C. (250 cases) §
521399
2018 El Dorado Mourvedre ^ This estategrown mourvedre starts off heady and high
toned, with scents of purple flowers and
plum. With air, the headiness recedes and the
wine streamlines into a compelling fruit-forward red with savory elements of mushroom,
humus and smoke. It's a long way from peak
expression. Cellar. -P.J.C. (150 cases) §

MERLOT

92 | Silverado

St. Helena and Calistoga. That rocky soil has
proven to be a great medium for the roots
of merlot vines, allowing them to ripen cool
fruit in the midst of a hot place. This 2017
is luscious, layering high tones of strawberries with darker depths of black cherries and
herbs. Its richness would be delicious with
rare filet mignon. -J.G. (4,678 cases) §

PETITE SIRAH
521296

93 | Green & Red
521293

92 | Duckhorn

$110

2017 Napa Valley Three Palms Vineyard
Merlot ^ The three palms at this vineyard line
the valley floor at a seam of rocks between

$30

2016 Napa Valley Tip Top Vineyard Petite
Sirah (Best Buy) ^ The Heminways planted
two acres of petite sirah in red soils with gravelly loam at their highest vineyard, the elevation reaching 1,800 feet. Those vines were
20 years old in 2016, producing a brisk and
sunny petite, expansive in its black-fruit richWINE & SPIRITS

OCTOBER 2020

https://www.duckhorn.com/Wines https://www.silveradovineyards.com/shop/wine https://www.duckhorn.com/Wines

Wine & Spirits - October 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2020