Wine & Spirits - October 2020 - 94

US NEW RELEASES
ness. The tannins taste like chewy blueberry
skins, their mineral density forming a tight,
elastic web. That structure is saturated with
generous fruit, mouthwatering now, and
probably better ten years from now, when
the tannins have relaxed. -J.G. (100 cases) §

PINOT NOIR: CENTRAL COAST
521459

95 | Calera

95 | Domaine de la Côte

521460

$75

2017 Mt. Harlan de Villiers Vineyard Pinot
Noir ^ De Villiers is an east-facing site more or
less in the middle of Calera's Mt. Harlan vineyards, planted in 1997. In 2017, it produced a
wine considerably more savory than most of
its counterparts, with a wild berry scent and
tealike accents. The fruit flavors are light and
attenuated, more about perfume than flavor,
marked by the tangy, mildly mineral grip of
the mountain's chalk soils. -P.J.C. §

WINE & SPIRITS

521337

93 | Chanin

$50

2018 Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ This tiny-production
pinot is briary and pretty, with aromas of
smoke, sea wrack and wild strawberry. The
fruit elements-strawberry and raspberry-
are concentrated and framed in fine tannins;
for game. -P.J.C. (96 cases) §

$75

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Bloom's Field Pinot
Noir ^ Composed of fruit from heritage pinot
clones on a west-facing, windswept vineyard,
Bloom's Field is perhaps the most savory of
the Domaine de la Côte pinot lineup. The
fruit isn't shy, but it reads as a kind of smoky
strawberry compote, with notes of herbs, bay
and olive leaf. It's sanguine and energetic; for
smoked trout. -P.J.C. (500 cases) §

93 | Calera

521357

$75

2017 Mt. Harlan Reed Vineyard Pinot
Noir ^ Reed, along with Selleck, contains
Calera's oldest pinot vines, planted in 1975
at 2,200 feet of elevation on a north-facing
slope. That northern aspect may account for
this wine's gentle savor-the tobacco, the
Korean pepper flake, the hint of clove and
leather. The flavors are spicy and sour, the
wine's acidity rendering the texture supple
and suave, like the first wisps of fog striking
the hill on a summer afternoon in coastal
California. Open one bottle now, but cellar
the others. -P.J.C. (546 cases) §
521442

OCTOBER 2020

521359

93 | Deovlet

$60

93 | Domaine de la Côte

$90

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Sanford & Benedict
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Redolent of strawberries, thyme and rosemary blossoms, this is
rich and forward, with a gentle acidity that
provides focus and persistence. -P.J.C. (145
cases) §
521443
2018 Sta. Rita Hills La Côte Pinot Noir ^
From a southeast-facing site in the western
reaches of the Sta. Rita Hills, this has a strong
marine character, with scents of smoke and
dried seaweed overlaying dark red fruits. A
whole-cluster smokiness currently shrouds
the wine, but cellar time will tame that.
-P.J.C. (500 cases) §
521379

93 | Melville

$50

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Sandy's Block Pinot
Noir ^ From a sandy site planted to four
clones, this is macerated for 30 days, with
half the fruit in whole bunches, then aged
in neutral barrels. It smells like a spice box,
clove, bergamot and violet scents girding
dark strawberry fruit. The flavors are tart and
transparent, the wine energetic and savory.
For a smoked chicken. -P.J.C. (675 cases) §

92 | Deovlet

$55

92 | Domaine de la Côte

$75

92 | Melville

$60

2018 Sta. Rita Hills La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Delicate and smoky, this
feels pure and succulent, with translucent
red-fruit flavors and a modest oak frame providing focus and length. It's liable to gather
more gravitas with cellar time. -P.J.C. (135
cases) §
521441
2018 Sta. Rita Hills Memorious Pinot Noir ^
Domaine de la Côte's whole-cluster expression is never subtle, especially when first
opened. This wine smells like crushed bergamot and violets, a heady aroma that doesn't
prepare you for the depth of dark, sweet
berry fruit it delivers. Earth, mushroom and
amaro spices emerge on the finish. It's got a
lot to say, and will need some cellar time to
bring it into focus. -P.J.C. (250 cases) §
521380
2018 Sta. Rita Hills Anna's Block Pinot
Noir ^ From an eight-acre parcel planted on a
south-facing slope to multiple pinot clones
in 2001, this balances its concentrated flavors with driving acidity. It feels tart and
lean, with notes of anise and cranberries
that would complement a lean cut of beef.
-P.J.C. (575 cases) §
521458

91 | Calera

$100

91 | Sandhi

$30

2017 Mt. Harlan Jensen Vineyard Pinot
Noir ^ This has sunny and seductive ripeness
in 2017, with notes of caramelized cherries
and toasty oak that point it toward pork loin.
-P.J.C. §
521392
2018 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^
This bottling comes mostly from Sandhi's
own vineyards, with a healthy dollop from
Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. Given the pedigree and the complexity, this wine is a steal.
The marriage of light pomegranate fruit and
smoky cluster spice is haunting, vibrant and
assertive, the whole-bunch component providing ballast and depth, but the wine's acidity is the lasting impression. For duck prosciutto. -P.J.C. (1,117 cases) §
521461

https://www.deovletwines.com/Wines/Current-Releases https://www.chaninwine.com/wine https://www.deovletwines.com/Wines/Current-Releases https://www.calerawine.com/product/2017-calera-mt-harlan-pinot-noir-de-villiers-vineyard?pageID=1058D86D-B794-F589-08EF-6D23BFDE2B1A&sortBy=DisplayOrder&maxRows=36&

Wine & Spirits - October 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - October 2020