Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 101

279123

95 | Royal Tokaji

$135/500ml

2016 Tokaji Aszú Betsek 1st Growth 6 Puttonyos ^ Royal Tokaji's portion of the crescent-shaped Betsek vineyard is toward the
bottom of the slope, where cool air collects
and the rich clay soil holds that chill. Perhaps you can taste the contrast of rich and
cool in this 2016, the wine filled with creamy
apricot-and-peach density of flavor, yet lifted
by brisk spice, citrus and floral notes. It feels
vivacious and pretty, carrying itself with an
ease that belies its sweetness (it's the richest
of Royal Tokaji's 2016 aszús, at 185 grams
per liter of residual sugar). § Wilson Daniels,
St. Helena, CA
279117

95 | Tokaj Nobilis

$30/500ml

2013 Tokaji Amicus (Best Buy) ^ Sarolta
Bárdos blended in some kövérszölö ("fat

grape") with furmint to create this juicy
late-harvested wine. It comes on sweet and
bold, packed with flavors of poached pears,
bananas Foster and roasted pineapple. Then
pointed, lemony acidity swoops in, with a
clarity and savor that brings everything into
dynamic balance. It's amazingly fresh for
a seven-year-old wine, and sure to last well
in the cellar. At this price, you may want to
buy a case. § Danch and Granger Selections, Los
Altos Hills, CA
279118

94 | Demeter Zoltán

$70/375ml

2016 Tokaji Sweet Szamorodni ^ Demeter
sourced this wine from his Veres vineyard,
a parcel he usually reserves for dry furmint
wines. But in 2016's warm, wet summer,
botrytis flourished, and Demeter made the
best of it, harvesting a wine that clocks in at
nearly 192 grams per liter of residual sugar.
It's so concentrated it's almost more food
than wine, each sip carrying the equivalent
of one peach pie's worth of flavor, along with
notes of orange blossom, musk, burnt sugar
and spice. Those savory notes-as well as the
wine's rocketing acidity-suggest this could
make a fascinating pairing with savory food,
like foie gras, or huitlacoche tamales. § Danch
and Granger Selections, Los Altos Hills, CA

279122

91 | Royal Tokaji

$135

90 | Sauska

$130

2016 Tokaji Aszú Nyulászó 1st Growth 6
Puttonyos ^ This feels youthful and lean, the
peach and lemon flavors pinned to the wine's
broad texture by sharp acidity. While it's succulent and almost refreshing now, this is sure
to build in complexity with time in bottle. §
Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA
279121
2017 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos ^ This is a
fresh, modern Tokaji Aszú, clean in its sweet
apricot fruit and lemony acidity. It's youthful, lively and bright, delicate enough to
serve slightly chilled with fresh fruit. § Trinity
Beverage Group, NY n

This pocket guide to Jamie
Goode's philosophy at once
celebrates and critiques the
world of wine.
"An entertaining and deep industry text."
-Foreword Reviews

"Oenophiles and vintners alike will find
provocations, lessons, and pleasures in these
smartly opinionated pages."
-Kirkus Reviews, STARRED

"A peek into the mind of this fascinating fellow
as he travels the wine world . . . .
Highly recommended."
-Wine Economist

www.ucpress.edu


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Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 8
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 9
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 10
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 11
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 12
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 19
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 20
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 101
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 104
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover4
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https://www.nxtbookmedia.com