Wine&S & pirits contents december 2020 VOLUME 39 # 7 features 22 CHAMPAGNE IN A CHANGING CLIMATE Charles Curtis, MW, considers the last decade in a once-marginal climate for growing quality grapes. Is every vintage now a Vintage year? 26 RIOJA FOR THE HOLIDAYS 30 COMUNIST EVOLUTION 36 NAPA VALLEY'S A remembrance of Christmases past, with cardo and Rioja in northern Spain, by Nacho Monclús. Stephanie Johnson reports on the new Barolos with commune-specific labels. ELEGANT 2017 CABERNETS Rain, heat and fire conspired to create some of the most refined cabernets in Napa Valley in many years. Jared Hooper talks with several of the most successful growers. PHOTO OF BAROLO BY GREG MARINO WINE & SPIRITS DECEMBER 2020 5