Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 75

YEAR'S BEST US CABERNETS & BLENDS
balancing cedar, tobacco, black cherry and
plum scents with brighter notes of mint. For
all that detail, it's a big wine, the oak providing a thick frame and lending vanilla flavors
to the mix. Pour it with a ribeye. -P.J.C. §

of smoky, herbal accents adorning dark
purple fruit. The flavors are minty and fresh,
with a clear-cut tannic structure that gives it
precision and elegance. -P.J.C. (W&S 2/20) §
521986

91 | Januik

$65

2017 Columbia Valley Reserve ^ Old-vine
fruit from Weinbau and Champoux vineyards lends gravitas to this blend of cabernet (60 percent) and merlot. It takes days to
arrive, pulling together with a dark cherry
and tobacco savor, the tannins fine and on
point for grilled meats. -P.J.C. §

$28

91 | Chateau Ste. Michelle

$30

2018 Columbia Valley The Chief (Best
Buy) ^ This is Mark Ryan McNeilly's motorcycle-inspired second label, which is full of
wines almost as big and full-bodied as those
in his top line. Mostly cabernet with a small
amount of merlot and cabernet franc, The
Chief is dense and mineral, with a compact
texture that gets some lift from volatile acidity and Asian spice notes. -P.J.C. §
521967
2016 Columbia Valley Cold Creek Vine-
yard Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Rich in style,
the wine is all plum fruit enveloped by warm,
spicy oak scents of tobacco and maple sap.
The flavors are very purple, with a supple,
velvety texture-everything you want for a
mixed-grill feast. -P.J.C. §
521350

91 | DeLille Cellars

$48

2017 Columbia Valley D2 ^ D2 blends about
two-thirds merlot with 30 percent cabernet
sauvignon and a few dollops of cabernet
franc and petit verdot. It's bright and chewy,
scented with briar, tobacco leaf and cherry,
with a velvety texture and the flesh to get
around a lamb chop. -P.J.C. (W&S 10/20) §
521897

91 | Gramercy Cellars

$50

2017 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon ^ For this wine, Greg Harrington and
Brandon Moss blend fruit from sources such
as Phinny Hill and Dionysus with grapes from
their estate vineyards. All about structure at
the moment, this is very firm with a tannic
spine. It needs time to get beyond its initial
notes of violets and sealing wax and reveal
the dark fruit within. Cellar. -P.J.C. §
518889

91 | Intrinsic

$22

2017 Columbia Valley (Best Buy) ^ A blend
of mostly cabernet franc and malbec, this is
impressive in its style and savor, with a host

$30

90 | Matthews

$85

2018 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon ^ Named for the green-winged teal,
this is Duckhorn's project using non-estate
vineyards to produce red wines in a lower
price tier than Canvasback, its flagship
Washington label. This 2018 smells of redcherry licorice and pepper when first poured,
with flavors that are bright red and stolid all
at once. It's the kind of wine to pour with
something marbled, like a wagyu burger.
-P.J.C. §
522010
2017 Columbia Valley Reserve Claret ^ This
is cabernet sauvignon blended with small
amounts of merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc. That juice is subjected to an ambitious oak regimen, which provides a weighty
structure for the caramel-cherry flavors. It's
a big wine with the stuffing to age. -P.J.C. §

521929

91 | Board Track Racer

90 | Greenwing

521894

91 | Longship

$28

2018 Columbia Valley Star Ship Cabernet
Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ All turf and tobacco
leaf when first poured, this has a high-toned
whiff of volatile acidity to ride over its dark
savor. It's powerful and fairly ripe, rich in
extract and held together by firm, compact
tannins. -P.J.C. §
521982

91 | Novelty Hill

$26

90 | Boomtown

$19

90 | Chateau Ste. Michelle

$15

2017 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Best Buy) ^ Scents of mocha and black
cherry have a faint, attractive tobacco-leaf
accent. The wine is formidably structured at
present, with tannins that need time to get
in line with the fruit. -P.J.C. §
520279
2018 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Best Buy) ^ A steal at $19, this delivers
a fine evergreen scent overlaying chocolatey,
plumlike sweetness. It's plummy in its
texture, too. Light and mildly herbaceous,
it's set for lamb chops. -P.J.C. (W&S 6/20) §
521965
2017 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Best Buy) ^ This wine feels brawny
and full bodied, but streamlines remarkably
with air: The lavender scent comes up,
complementing blackberry-compote flavors.
Stylish and impressively complex for the
price; serve it with grilled chicken. -P.J.C. §
521992

521945

90 | Pendulum

$15

90 | Waterbrook

$16

90 | Waterbrook

$16

2018 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Best Buy) ^ Offering impressive complexity for the price, this is a lean cabernet.
With its minty top note, peppery pyrazines
and spritz of blueberry flavor, it feels like a
classic cabernet from a bygone era. Buy it by
the case to decant for steak. -P.J.C. §
521959
2018 Columbia Valley Vintner's Select
Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ Well made
for the price, this wine has modest aromas of
violet, evergreen and conifer that drape like
a garland around its dark blue fruit. It's firm,
medium bodied and a bit rooty in flavor, with
graceful tannins. -P.J.C. §
521957
2017 Columbia Valley Vintner's Select
(Best Buy) ^ Another bargain from Waterbrook, this feels effortless, like it went into
the bottle with everything it needed, nothing
wasted. It leads with a mace-like spice that
carries forward into juicy dark cherry and
cassis flavors. -P.J.C. §
WINE & SPIRITS

DECEMBER 2020

75


https://markryanwinery.orderport.net/product-details/0756/BTR-Cellars-2018-The-Chief-750ml https://www.longshipcellars.com/collections/frontpage https://www.wine.com/product/pendulum-cabernet-sauvignon-2018/625740

Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 8
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 9
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 10
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 11
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 12
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 13
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 18
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 19
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 20
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 21
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 69
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 71
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 101
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 103
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 104
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover4
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