Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 81

YEAR'S BEST US CABERNETS & BLENDS
toasty oak. Its fine bitter-chocolate tannins
feel seductive and a touch exotic, but this
needs food and a decanter to sing; pour it
with porchetta. -P.J.C. §
520179
92 L'Ecole No 41
$65

they don't brood for long, buoyed by almost
playful acidity. This wine always comes off as
youthful, but it can age; cellar. -P.J.C. (W&S
10/20; 635 cases) §
521972

|

2017 Walla Walla Valley Ferguson Vineyard ^ This is a huge wine, a basalt-black pot
of fruit limned with spectacular flourishes of
violet, pine and evergreen, so vivid it's as if
essential oils have been spritzed into it. The
tannins are fine but have a cumulative power,
delivering the flavors with precision. For
flank steak. -P.J.C. (W&S 6/20; 1,280 cases) §
521995

92 | Lujon

$28

2018 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ Lujon is a small fatherand-son operation out of Carlton, Oregon,
devoted mostly to Willamette Valley fruit,
except for this succulent cabernet. It's a steal
for the price, spicy, briary and lean, with an
effortless balance between smoked purpleplum fruit and lean, angular tannins, with
just the right amount of flesh for pork shoulder. -P.J.C. §
521911

92 | Saviah

$45

2016 Walla Walla Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ Saviah's Reserve
is a barrel selection of fruit from two Walla
Walla vineyards, Anna Marie and the McClellan Estate, and it is one of the better-priced
reserve wines you're likely to find. This one
is ripe (14.8 percent alcohol) but that takes
nothing away from the wine's sumptuous
elegance, its black plum and mocha scents,
its powerful build, its elegant finish. While
there's much to love now (use a decanter), it's
got the stuffing to age, too. -P.J.C. §
522012

92 | Walla Walla Vintners

$35

2017 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ From one of the first wineries to plant in the cool reaches of Mill Creek
Valley in the foothills of the Blue Mountains,
this wine has posh elements of spice and herb
that give it style and lift, the plum lined with
pipe tobacco, the red fruit possessing a lean
line from cedary oak. -P.J.C. §

522014

91 | L'Ecole No 41

$39

2017 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Drawn largely from estate sources,
including Ferguson and Seven Hills, this is
dark and plummy, rich as fudge when the
wine is first poured. It takes a day to unfurl,
notes of pine tips and clove adorning deep
plum flavors and firm, mouthcoating tannins
that provide powerful structure. This has the
stuffing to cellar. -P.J.C. §
521910

91 | Saviah

$30

2017 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Best Buy) ^ This fiercely savory cabernet is sanguine and lifted when first poured,
with scents of blood and tobacco leaf. It's
lean and pleasantly light, with nimble tannins girding its dark black-cherry character.
Pour it for an outdoor barbecue. -P.J.C. §
521365
90 L'Ecole No 41
$59

|

2017 Walla Walla Valley Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon ^ Drawn from two estate vineyards, Ferguson, on the Sevein hillside, and
Seven Hills, downhill, this wine is powerfully
savory, with scents of cedar and tobacco,
and flavors of spiced cherry and cocoa, all of
which should grow more complex with some
bottle age. -P.J.C. (W&S 10/20; 475 cases) §
521922

90 | North by Northwest

$55

2015 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ^ This has benefited from some bottle
age, taking on notes of dried tomato and
tobacco leaf that lend savor to its dark cherry
fruit. It's composed and linear, saturated
with granular, rich tannins; for steak. -P.J.C. §

YA K I M A VA L L E Y
521334

93 | Andrew Will

$67

2017 Yakima Valley Two Blondes Vineyard ^
In 2017, this cuvée is floral and herbal, reflecting Yakima's cooler climate and the relatively
high elevation of its site. Mostly merlot and
cabernet sauvignon, it has curiously savory
aromas, scents of smoke and caraway, herb
seeds and carob. The flavors are dark but

92 | DeLille Cellars

$75

91 | Airfield Estates

$32

88 | Airfield Estates

$18

2017 Yakima Valley Red Willow ^ Cool
and distant, this blend is about half cabernet franc, the balance cabernet sauvignon
and merlot. It projects smoky purple fruit,
a Yakima/Red Willow signature. Tight and
slightly peppery, tense and lean, driven by
coniferous tannins, it feels far from peak
expression. Cellar. -P.J.C. §
521934
2017 Yakima Valley Runway ^ A savory blend
of cofermented cabernet franc and merlot
from estate sources, this leads with scents
of olives and bay laurel, clove and cedar. As
plum flavors come up, they create compelling tension with the savory notes. The elements should resolve with age. -P.J.C. §
521932
2018 Yakima Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
(Best Buy) ^ With slightly leafy notes of currant and cassis, this is a rich red, with a fruitskin grip for charcuterie. -P.J.C. §

WASHINGTON AVA
521997

91 | Woodward Canyon

$59

91 | Woodward Canyon

$99

91 | Woodward Canyon

$99

2018 Washington Artist Series Cabernet
Sauvignon ^ This 2018 is still a baby, dominated by oak and tannins, its structure filling
in around the dark-plum flavors with a thick,
ornate frame. Decant it if you open it now,
and pair with a char-grilled steak. -P.J.C. §
521998
2018 Washington Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon ^ Woodward Canyon's old vines date
to 1970s plantings at Sagemoor, Champoux
and its estate vineyard in Lowden. In 2018,
those vines grew a heady and deep red, its
savory scents of tanned leather and tobacco
leaf building into black plum and plum-skin
flavors. For braised beef. -P.J.C. §
520079

2017 Washington Old Vines Cabernet
Sauvignon ^ Unabashedly old-school, this
wine is all caramel and cedar, its black-fig
fruit heavily paneled with oak. Don't touch
it for a decade, and decant it before serving.
-P.J.C. (W&S 6/20; 688 cases) n

WINE & SPIRITS

DECEMBER 2020

81


https://www.lecole.com/wine/2017-cabernet-sauvignon-walla-walla-valley/

Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover4
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