Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 84

FOCUS: BAROLO & BARBARESCO
95 | Paolo Conterno

$185

2011 Barolo Riserva Ginestra ^ This powerful riserva, from a single plot of 35-year-old
vines, rested in large casks for 55 months. Its
deep dark-cherry flavors meld with notes of
tobacco, menthol and licorice in a rich and
savory wine. For all of its flavor intensity, the
wine remains fresh and balanced, its dense
tannins beginning to relent only after several
days of air, suggesting it has not yet reached
its peak. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
278965

95 | Diego Conterno

$80

2016 Barolo Ginestra ^ Part of the founding
team of Conterno Fantino in 1982, Diego
Conterno parted ways with the firm in 2000
but kept portions of three parcels in Monforte's Ginestra cru that his family has owned
for 150 years. This wine comes from 45-yearold vines in the Sorì parcel, at the top of the
Ginestra hill. It opens with scents of mint
and licorice that continue through the wine,
joined by fresh cherry and berry flavors and
powerful tannins. It's an exciting, distinctive
Barolo that offers impressive depth and concentration yet never feels heavy, lifted by precise herbal accents and brisk acidity. § North
Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
278957

95 | Conterno Fantino

$139

2016 Barolo Mosconi Vigna Ped ^ This bold
wine offers flavors of ripe cherry and pomegranate wrapped in muscular, ferrous tannins that give the wine a cool undertone.
The fruit tones expand with air, energized
by notes of apple skin, licorice and menthol. §
Empson USA, Alexandria, VA
278898

95 | Luigi Einaudi

$138

2016 Barolo Cannubi ^ This is a poised and
vivacious 2016 from vines that range from 14
to 54 years old. Flavors of rich dark cherry
are taut and precise, brightened by exuberant
acidity and notes of orange peel and menthol. Fresh and layered, with silky tannins,
this shows great aging potential. § Empson
USA, Alexandria, VA
278948

95 | Luigi Einaudi

$138

2016 Barolo Bussia ^ This wine is rich and
supple, its flavors of warmed dark cherry
edged in notes of anise and smoke. A bright
core of acidity lifts and energizes the flavors,
drawing out lingering spice notes on the finish. § Empson USA, Alexandria, VA
278851

95 | Cordero di
Montezemolo

$95

2016 Barolo Gattera ^ This estate's 2.5 acres
of vines sit just below the iconic cedar of
Lebanon at the top of the Gattera cru in La
84

WINE & SPIRITS

DECEMBER 2020

Morra. The wine underwent a relatively brief
maceration yet is densely concentrated, its
warmed cherry and pomegranate flavors rich
and penetrating, supported by fine tannins
that feel like iron dust distributed evenly
throughout the wine. Notes of mocha, licorice and spice linger on the warm, sensuous
finish. § Ethica Wines, Miami, FL
278860

95 | Paolo Scavino

$81

95 | Paolo Scavino

$81

2016 Barolo Prapò ^ This is the Scavino family's second release of Prapò, from a southfacing vineyard they replanted with a massal
selection in 2010. It opens to lush flavors of
cherry and pomegranate brightened by notes
of licorice and menthol. Suave tannins draw
the flavors together on a harmonious, spicy
finish. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
278912
2016 Barolo Ravera ^ This is another secondrelease wine for Scavino, the fruit coming
off an east-facing plot in Ravera. The wine's
vibrant acidity is characteristic of this cru,
with freshness that lasts for days after the
bottle has been opened. It pulses through flavors of macerated black cherry and rhubarb,
picking up notes of warm spice and bright
orange zest. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
279031

95 | Paolo Scavino

$81

94 | Luigi Baudana

$60

2016 Barolo Monvigliero ^ This wine opens
with scents of rose petals and fresh herbs,
those herbal notes mirrored in the flavors as
they weave through fresh cherry and pomegranate. Velvety tannins frame the fruit without impeding it, leading to a long and balanced finish. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
278859
2016 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga
d'Alba ^ When Giuseppe Vaira and his team
took over winemaking at this estate, one
of their first moves was to create this cuvée
with fruit from younger vines in the Cerretta
and Baudana crus. The first release was from
the 2005 vintage and they called it Barolo
Serralunga d'Alba, eventually changing the
name to Barolo del Comune di Serralunga
d'Alba when the MGA rules were approved
in 2010. The wine exhibits some of the power
of this commune in its chiseled tannins, yet
its red cherry and pomegranate flavors are
unusually fresh and appealing in youth,
accented by notes of licorice and mint. § Vajra
USA, Manhasset, NY
278925

94 | Cavallotto

$90

2016 Barolo Bricco Boschis ^ Enticing aromas of soft roses and fresh thyme lead into
an explosion of fruit, as flavors of juicy red

cherry, pomegranate and blood orange surge
forward on waves of brisk acidity. The wine's
energy and focus are immensely appealing,
yet the tautly drawn tannins will benefit from
some bottle age. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
278958

94 | Pio Cesare

$175

94 | Michele Chiarlo

$125

2016 Barolo Mosconi ^ This is the second vintage of this wine for Pio Cesare, the fruit coming from the oldest vines (planted in 1947)
in a 25-acre plot the family bought in 2014.
Initially austere, the wine fleshes out with
air to reveal scents of lavender and thyme,
along with rich fruit flavors of plum and
black cherry edged in notes of tobacco and
spice. Its densely packed tannins are slow to
unfurl and will benefit from cellar time. § Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Oakland, CA
278897
2016 Barolo Cannubi ^ Notes of cedar, baking spice and tobacco weave through this
wine's ripe red-cherry flavors. It's rich and
voluptuous, perfect for mellow evenings with
roasted red meats or truffle pasta. § Kobrand,
Purchase, NY
278824

94 | Elvio Cogno

$65

2016 Barolo Cascina Nuova ^ Fruit from Valter and Nadia Fissore's younger vines in the
Ravera cru yielded a dynamic wine in 2016.
It opens with scents of fresh roses and brims
with flavors of juicy black cherry and plum,
all of it laced with fennel pollen and orange
zest. The snappy fruit tones have a pristine
ripeness, propelled by brisk acidity toward a
vibrant, balanced finish. § Wilson Daniels, St.
Helena, CA

278964

94 | Diego Conterno

$65

2016 Barolo del Comune di Monforte
d'Alba ^ In the 2016 vintage, Diego Conterno
and his son, Stefano, decided to vinify the
fruit from their three Ginestra parcels separately. Fruit from the Sorì plot, their oldest
vines, goes into their Barolo Ginestra bottling (also recommended here), while they
selected fruit from the other two parcels to
make this new Comune di Monforte wine. It
gains rich dark cherry fruit flavors from the


https://www.wine.com/product/diego-conterno-barolo-del-comune-di-monforte-2016/579025

Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 6
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover4
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