Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 86

FOCUS: BAROLO & BARBARESCO
278940
Vigna Rionda, Rosso ages this wine in large,
neutral French oak casks from the Fontainebleu forest, chosen for their delicate influence on the wines. § Vias Imports, NY
278875

94 | Giovanni Rosso

$402

2016 Barolo Ester Canale Rosso Vigna
Rionda ^ In 2010, Davide Rosso inherited
three acres of vines in this renowned Serralunga cru from a cousin on his mother's
side of the family, and while he kept the original black-and-white label used since 1936,
he renamed the wine for his mother. Rosso
makes just 2,500 bottles of this Barolo, and it
is vibrant and powerful in 2016, with flavors
of ripe cherry and blood orange encased in a
fine, tannic structure. Those red-fruit tones
gain richness and depth with exposure to air,
unfolding in mineral-inflected layers of flavor that linger on a long, harmonious finish. §
Vias Imports, NY
279033

94 | G.D. Vajra

$40

2016 Barolo Albe (Best Buy) ^  The optimal
2016 growing season allowed producers to
make exceptional Barolos from the top to the
bottom of their ranges, and that was certainly
the case for the Vaira family. Fruit for Albe
comes from younger vines in several highelevation plots in the Barolo commune-
although the vines currently average 30 years
of age, and the wine reflects their maturity
in its complexity and depth. It offers supple
tannins and classic flavors of red and black
cherry tinged with notes of licorice and mint,
the flavors so vibrant and appealing that,
although you could hold this for several
years, why wait? § Vajra USA, Manhasset, NY
278967

94 | Luigi Vico

$110

2016 Barolo Prapò ^ Luigi Vico's family have
been winegrowers in Serralunga d'Alba for
many decades, but Vico grew up in Turin,
paying occasional visits to his grandparents'
farm. The family eventually rented out the
vineyards, but in 2016 Vico decided to return
to his family's land in Serralunga. With just
1.7 acres of vines and no cellar, Vico asked for
help from his friend and neighbor, Davide
Rosso, the owner and winemaker at Giovanni
Rosso. Their debut coincided with the exceptional 2016 vintage, and their initial releases
are impressive (see the 2016 Barolo del
Comune di Serralunga d'Alba, also recommended here). Gently extracted and aged in
neutral oak casks, the wine is taut and lively,
its flavors of fresh cherry and plum infused
with notes of licorice, menthol and tarragon. §
North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA

86

WINE & SPIRITS

DECEMBER 2020

94 | Vietti

$52

2016 Barolo Castiglione ^ This wine is the
most accessible of Luca Currado's Barolos
in its youth. He vinifies the fruit from single crus across multiple communes, keeping the lots separate, then blind-tastes the
wines to create the blend before selecting the
most appropriate casks for aging the wine.
His 2016 feels fresh and floral with flavors
of dark cherry and tobacco edged in wild
thyme. § Dalla Terra, Napa, CA
278853

93 | Altare

$120

2016 Barolo Arborina ^ This wine comes off
of two parcels in La Morra's Arborina cru,
one planted in 1948 and the other in 1989.
It is dark-fruited and voluptuous, unfolding
with flavors of warmed cherries and candied
plums laced with baking spices. A thread of
bright acidity draws the flavors together and
upward, keeping the richness from verging
into sweetness. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
279040

93 | La Briccolina

$72

2015 Barolo Briccolina ^ Fruit from 55-yearold vines in Serralunga d'Alba's Briccolina
cru gave a dark and sensual wine in the warm
2015 vintage. Supple tannins frame flavors
of dark cherry and red-apple skin, those flavors brightened by notes of blood orange and
menthol that resonate on the finish. § North
Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
278935

93 | Cavallotto

$158

93 | Michele Chiarlo

$235

2013 Barolo Riserva Vignolo ^ The Cavallotto family's three-acre plot in Vignolo's
sandy-clay soils yielded a bright, high-toned
wine in the moderate 2013 growing season.
Tautly structured, with mouthcoating flavors
of red cherry edged in notes of licorice and
orange peel, it begins to close down with time
in the glass, suggesting that this will reward
patience as the flavors continue to evolve and
flesh out. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
278910
2013 Barolo Riserva Cerequio ^ Fruit for this
riserva comes from 7.4 acres of vines planted
in 1972. Its red cherry flavors are brisk and
vibrant, enlivened by cool acidity and notes
of orange peel. The wine aged for three years
in large oak casks, developing notes of mushroom and cassis that give depth to the lively
fruit tones. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
278880

93 | Paolo Conterno

$45

2016 Barolo Riva del Bric (Best Buy) ^ 
This wine comes from Giorgio Conterno's
younger vines in the Ginestra cru. It offers
juicy flavors of dark cherry and plum brightened by notes of blood orange. Broad, clay-

like tannins weave the flavors together in a
taut frame that will be more accessible with
a few years of cellaring. § Skurnik Wines &
Spirits, NY
278953

93 | Conterno Fantino

$131

93 | Conterno Fantino

$156

2016 Barolo Castelletto Vigna Pressenda ^
Scents of violet and lavender preface this
Barolo's vibrant flavors of blueberry and
black cherry, the wine shaped by chiseled
tannins and edged in notes of subtle spice
that linger on the finish. § Empson USA, Alexandria, VA
278961
2016 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Sorì Ginestra ^
Fruit from 40-year-old vines rooted in Ginestra's silty clay soils yielded a broad and powerful wine in 2016. Its dark cherry flavors are
ripe and lush, accented by notes of licorice
and menthol and drawn out by cool acidity. §
Empson USA, Alexandria, VA
278874

93 | Cordero di
Montezemolo

$45

93 | Ellena Giuseppe

$40

93 | Marcarini

$96

2016 Barolo Monfalletto (Best Buy) ^ Notes
of mint, eucalyptus and tobacco underline
this wine's dark fruit tones, the flavors driven
by tangy acidity and ferrous minerality. It
offers an excellent introduction to the 2016
vintage. § Ethica Wines, Miami, FL
278845
2016 Barolo del Comune di La Morra
(Best Buy) ^ The Ellena family has always produced this wine with fruit from La Morra,
and they renamed it as a comune wine in 2011
after the MGA rules were instated. The fruit
comes from 25- to 40-year-old vines in the
Ascheri cru, and it's a tremendous value in
the 2016 vintage. Deliciously appealing in its
youth, with flavors of tart cherry, licorice and
orange peel balanced by darker tones of tar
and tobacco, it has the freshness to age well. §
Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA
278850
2016 Barolo La Serra ^ The Marcarini family began making a stricter selection for this
wine in 2015, using the remaining fruit from
La Serra and Brunate for their Barolo del
Comune di La Morra. That decision paid
in this elegant 2016 La Serra. Its tight redberry flavors are crunchy and fresh, lifted
by notes of orange zest, and deepened by
undertones of licorice and tobacco. Mouthwatering acidity drives the flavors, and the
mid-weight frame gives it plenty of youthful
appeal. § Empson USA, Alexandria, VA



Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover4
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