Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 91

floor. The fruit comes from 50- to 70-yearold vines in this Neive cru, and, like all of
Sottimano's Barbarescos, is fermented with
ambient yeasts and bottled without filtering. §
Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
279002

92 | Piero Busso

$65

2016 Barbaresco Mondino ^ This comes
from a southwest-facing plot in the Neive
commune's Balluri cru, the vines averaging
45 years old. Its rich flavors of cherry and
raspberry broaden with air to take on notes
of licorice, orange peel and spice, a warm
and autumnal wine to pour with mushroom
risotto. § North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
279007

92 | Ca'Rome

$104

2017 Barbaresco Chiaramanti ^ Giuseppe
Romano makes this wine with fruit from
the Rio Sordo cru in the Barbaresco commune. It feels fresh, its juicy black-cherry
flavors flecked with notes of mint, licorice
and graphite. § Empson USA, Alexandria, VA
279025

92 | Pio Cesare

$79

2016 Barbaresco ^ From the Cesare family's plots in the Treiso and Alba communes
of Barbaresco, this 2016 is lively and redfruited, its Bing-cherry flavors accented by
notes of cedar, menthol and warm spice.
Its freshness and taut structure suggest
good aging potential. § Maisons Marques &
Domaines USA, Oakland, CA
278980

92 | Elvio Cogno

$60

2017 Barbaresco Bordini ^ Valter Fissore
makes this wine from a 2.5-acre plot in the
Neive commune. It comes across as broadshouldered in the warm 2017 vintage, the
dark-cherry flavors accented by subtle spice
and supported by firm, mineral tannins. § Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA
278985

92 | Giuseppe Cortese

$55

2017 Barbaresco Rabajà ^ This wine's concentrated dark-cherry fruit gains notes of orange
tea and spice with air, the flavors underlined

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by powerful, ferrous tannins. It finishes on
a warm and lightly bitter note. § Leonardo
LoCascio Selections/Winebow Imports, NY
278976

92 | Sottimano

$83

92 | Francesco Versio

$59

2017 Barbaresco Pajorè ^ This is smooth and
silky, fine tannins weaving together rich flavors of red cherry and plum with notes of
licorice and dark spice. It lasts, long and balanced. § Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
278978
2017 Barbaresco ^ Francesco Versio worked
under Dante Scaglione at Bruno Giacosa
and is now a winemaker at Luigi Oddero;
he started his own Barbaresco project in the
2013 vintage with fruit from his family's plots
in the Neive commune. His 2017 Barbaresco
is lithe and lively for the vintage, with fine
tannins that frame flavors of red cherry and
blood orange. § Artisanal Cellars, White River
Junction, VT
279053


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Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - December 2020

Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 1
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 2
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 4
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 5
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 6
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 7
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - 8
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Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover3
Wine & Spirits - December 2020 - Cover4
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