Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 10
Book Review
Nose Dive
A Field Guide to the World's Smells
By H A RO L D M CG E E
Reviewed by J A M IE G O O DE
10
WINE & SPIRITS
he drank a Rhône wine and ate a
whole roasted grouse on a slice
of toast. " The first bite left me
speechless, " McGee says. " I was
completely absorbed. The meatiness was almost too strong, with
some bitterness. " He says that he
experienced confused emotions,
and was momentarily paralyzed.
St John chef Fergus Henderson
smiled at him and nodded: " Your
first grouse. " McGee says that the
power of this experience told him
he had to focus on flavor, and this
led to Nose Dive.
Nose Dive: A Field
Guide to the World's Smells,
by Harold McGee
(Penguin Press, October 2020; $35)
FEBRUARY 2021
PHOTO BY ALEXANDER KRIVITSKIY ON UNSPLASH
B
ack in 2004, San Francisco-based food writer
Harold McGee finished
the second edition of a book he
first published 20 years earlier,
and which has become seminal
work in the field of gastronomy.
Titled On Food and Cooking, it is
an encyclopedic look at the science behind food. Heston Blumenthal of The Fat Duck (in Bray,
Berkshire) says it was the most
influential book in his career,
which from a chef of his reputation is praise indeed. Some 16
years later, McGee looks to have
done it again, with this substantial reference work on smell.
To call it an encyclopedia would
be doing it a disservice, because
Nose Dive is a work of stunning
originality. In an interview with
Professor Barry Smith for London
Gastronomy Seminars (December
2020), McGee explained the inspiration for this book. " After I wrote
On Food and Cooking in 2004, I
wanted to catch up with where the
food world had gone while I was
buried in writing, " he explained.
So, he traveled to the UK and met
up with Blumenthal, and they
ate their way across Europe. " We
tried dishes in restaurants whose
chefs were really trying to knock
our socks off, " he says. But the
dish that surprised him the most
was at very traditional lunch at
London restaurant St John. It was
August, which was grouse season;
Wine & Spirits - February 2021
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2021
Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 1
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 2
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 4
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 5
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 6
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 7
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 8
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 9
Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 10
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