Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 67

Year's Best Mosel Rieslings
95 | Meulenhof

$30

2019 Mosel Erdener Treppchen Riesling
Auslese (Best Buy) ^ Stefan Justen farms
17 acres of vines, most of them planted on
their own roots in the steeps of Erdener Treppchen. In 2019, those old vines eked out a
deeply golden wine, with flavors of dried
fruit and honey countered by a ton of gingerroot and spice notes. It lasts, dense and
meaty, with a driving acidity that suggests
this could match well with salty meats, like
prosciutto or smoked speck. § Skurnik Wines
& Spirits, NY
280835

94 | Fritz Haag

$56

2019 Mosel Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ^ Like Oliver Haag's
2019 gold-capped bottling from the same
vineyard (also recommended here) this carries its sweet, tropical fruit with an airy freshness that belies its concentration. It clocks
in at 138 grams of residual sugar, the wine
carrying that sweetness in scents of violets
and honeydew melon. Gingery acidity keeps
it lively, and promises to protect the wine's
freshness as it ages. § Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon
City, OR
280865

94 | Schloss Lieser

$89

93 | Schloss Lieser

$58

93 | Merkelbach

$37

the peachy fruit, the wine concentrated yet
refreshing, ending on a clean, savory note. §
Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
280795

92 | A.J. Adam

$65

2019 Mosel Hofberg Riesling Auslese ^ This
tastes like a sunset after a rainstorm on the
Mosel, all orange, red and gold in fruit flavors, mixed with notes of ozone and wet
slate. It's big and bold, with ripe, peachy acidity that brings it to a clean finish. § Skurnik
Wines & Spirits, NY
280884

90 | Dr. Loosen

$64

2018 Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ^ The wines of the steep blueslate slopes of this vineyard often stand out
for their delicacy: This one feels like a ray of
sun, weightless and translucent, ringing out
in lemony flavor. There's not a lot of detail
yet, but it feels succulent and energetic, the
sweetness well-tempered by its vivid acidity. §
Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon City, OR
280826

90 | Albert Gessinger

Gessingers' Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyards.
In 2017, that heat turned the ripeness up to
10, giving a wine that's as rich as a Florentine cookie, honeyed and nutty in its candied orange flavors. Match the plush fruit to
a soft, ripe washed-rind cheese. § Kysela Père et
Fils, Winchester, VA
280981

90 | Zilliken

$104

2019 Mosel Rausch Riesling Auslese ^ A
rich gold, this has a dense, earthy sweetness,
like that of a Japanese yam. It's honeyed and
concentrated, with enough umami character that it could pair with savory dishes or
a truffled cheese. § Loosen Bros. USA, Oregon
City, OR
280808

87 | Bollig-Lehnert

$18/375ml

2019 Mosel Dhroner Hofberger Riesling
Auslese*** (Best Buy) ^ This is sweet and simple, with tropical fruit notes of pineapple and
mango. The acidity stands a little apart from
the sweetness right now, but they may integrate with time. § Winesellers, Niles, IL ■

$48

2017 Mosel Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Caldo
Infernale Alte Reben Riesling Auslese** ^
This comes from the warmest part of the

2019 Mosel Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling
Auslese Goldkapsel ^ An intense Auslese,
this packs fruit over its nut-oil richness, layering flavors of Meyer lemon, blood orange
and fleshy red-blushed nectarine. The acidity
remains bright and fresh, with a ginger catch
in the throat. Give this time in the cellar to
mellow; it has the stuffing to last for years. §
Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
280867
2019 Mosel Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling
Auslese ^ Super sweet and tropical at first pass,
with notes of pineapple, mango and burnt
orange, this delivers a burst of flavor, and
has the acidity to carry it all off. It's like the
vinous, liquid version of a Gobstopper, packing impossible amounts of flavor in every sip,
and yet it never gets tiring. § Skurnik Wines &
Spirits, NY
280898
2019 Mosel Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Auslese #3 ^ Brothers Alfred and Rolf
Merkelbach ran their tiny Mosel estate for
more than 60 years, until, in 2019, they called
on the Selbachs for help. The Selbachs have
retained every bit of the brothers' old-school
style, vinifying each parcel separately and
bottling each fuder separately, identified
by number. The 2019 #3 Auslese sparkles
with life, a gingery acidity running through
WINE & SPIRITS

FEBRUARY 2021

67
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Wine & Spirits - February 2021

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