Wine & Spirits - February 2021 - 69

Focus Piedmont Barbera & Dolcetto
this wine's flavors of raspberry and sour
cherry are lifted by notes of blood orange and
bright acidity. The wine aged in a mix of large
and small barrels, mostly used, and shows
hints of underbrush and savory spice that
balance the fruit tones. § Winebow Imports, NY
280667

90 | Alessandro e
Gian Natale Fantino

$24

2018 Barbera d'Alba Superiore Cascina
Dardi ^ The Fantino brothers produce this
wine with fruit grown on a west-facing slope
in Monforte d'Alba's Bussia cru. Its flavors
of raspberry and black cherry show an
impressive clarity and exuberance, buoyed
by tangy acidity that invites a pairing with
creamy mushroom risotto. § Kermit Lynch
Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA
280654

90 | Marchesi di Grésy

$19

2018 Barbera d'Asti (Best Buy) ^ This is a
lithe and lively barbera, with snappy flavors
of cherry, raspberry and pomegranate edged
in notes of orange peel and subtle spice. Its
moderate alcohol and lifted acidity would
match well with duck confit. § Dalla Terra,
Napa, CA
280618

90 | Reva

$36

2017 Barbera d'Alba Superiore ^ Scents
of fresh violets lead into flavors of seeded
berries in this juicy, zesty barbera. The
fruit tones are bold and ripe, balanced by
bright acidity. § Artisanal Cellars, White River
Junction, VT
280625

88 | Virna Borgogno

$19

2016 Barbera d'Alba la (Best Buy) ^ Notes
of dark chocolate and star anise accent
this wine's juicy mixed-berry fruit tones.
It's a warm and hefty wine, for hearty fare. §
Shiverick Imports, Los Angeles, CA
280616

88 | Enrico Serafino

$17

2017 Barbera d'Alba Pajena (Best Buy) ^
This wine's flavors of juicy ripe blackberry
and raspberry are warm and mouthfilling,
laced with notes of pepper and showing a
hint of sweetness. Pour it on a cold winter
night with brisket. § Dalla Terra, Napa, CA
280663

88 | Tibaldi

$20

2018 Barbera d'Alba (Best Buy) ^ This
barbera offers flavors of sour cherry and
raspberry edged with notes of spice and
orange liqueur. Its mouthwatering acidity is
a match for burgers and braised meats. § Regal
Wine Imports, Moorestown, NJ
280643

88 | Trediberri

$23

2019 Barbera d'Alba (Best Buy) ^ Flavors of
macerated plums and blackberries meld with
notes of garden herbs and orange zest in this
lively wine. It finishes on a lightly bitter note,
warmed by ample alcohol. § Vintus, NY

DOLCETTO
280766

92 | Poderi Luigi Einaudi

$38

91 | Fratelli Alessandria

$22

2018 Dogliani Superiore Vigna Tecc ^ Vigna
Tecc, Einaudi's top-tier dolcetto, unfolds with
bold and fleshy black-cherry and raspberry
flavors, sculpted by cool mineral tannins
and layered with notes of dark chocolate and
lingering spice. § Empson USA, NY
280780
2018 Dolcetto d'Alba (Best Buy) ^ Working
with fruit from three of his high-altitude
parcels in Verduno, Vittore Alessandria ages
this wine in cement and stainless-steel tanks
to emphasize its vibrant flavors of red plum,
raspberry and pomegranate. Snappy fruitskin tannins add to the wine's perkiness as
it finishes with a spray of orange zest. § North
Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
280765

91 | Poderi Luigi Einaudi

$23

2018 Dogliani (Best Buy) ^ Lively acidity
weaves through this wine's flavors of plum
and strawberry, edged with notes of mint and
subtle spice. Stainless-steel aging keeps the
fruit tones bright and precise through a dry
finish, a versatile match for a range of poultry
or pork dishes. § Empson USA, NY
280770

91 | Pecchenino

$25

91 | Pecchenino

$36

91 | Trediberri

$20

2017 Dogliani Superiore Sirì d'Jermu ^
Scents of violet and soft spice lead into this
wine's flavors of ripe plum and raspberry, all
of it underlined by slatey mineral tones. The
bold fruit flavors are reminiscent of a Russian
River Valley pinot noir, while firm tannins
make it a versatile partner at the dinner
table. § Vias Imports, NY
280774

planted half a century ago at this vineyard
in Dogliani. He vinifies the wine in stainless
steel and concrete, giving full expression to
the tangy cherry and red-currant flavors.
Bouncy and buoyant, with fine tannins and
a pleasant note of almonds at the finish, it's
a match for cheesy pastas. § Vintus, NY
280779

90 | Diego Conterno

$22

90 | Massolino

$22

90 | Pecchenino

$20

90 | Francesco Versio

$26

2019 Dolcetto d'Alba (Best Buy) ^ This
wine smells of violets and tastes of purple
fruits-crunchy plum and blackberry-the
flavors laced with notes of bitter chocolate
and cinched by plum-skin tannins. Its bright,
ample fruit tones and raspy tannins would
match pork and fennel sausage. § North
Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA
280749
2019 Dolcetto d'Alba (Best Buy) ^ This
dolcetto offers flavors of juicy plum and
raspberry that are pleasantly tart, brightened
by a hint of orange peel. Fine, ferrous tannins
frame the flavors, setting the wine up for
dinner. § Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL
280744
2019 Dogliani San Luigi (Best Buy) ^ Flavors
of dark cherry and raspberry meld with notes
of subtle spice and toasted almonds in this
easy-drinking dolcetto. It's lively, inviting
another sip. § Vias Imports, NY
280752
2019 Dogliani ^ Bright acidity propels flavors
of fresh raspberry and cherry as this wine
picks up notes of violets and subtle spice. The
lightly tart fruit flavors are a mouthwatering
match for salumi and hard cheeses. § Artisanal
Cellars, White River Junction, VT n

2016 Dogliani Superiore Bricco Botti ^
Bricco Botti aged in large, untoasted French
oak barrels for two years, developing notes
of cacao, licorice and espresso layered into
its dark cherry and raspberry flavors. For all
of its dark richness and dense concentration,
the wine finishes balanced and dry, lingering
on warm spice notes. § Vias Imports, NY
280745
2019 Dogliani Bricco Mollea (Best Buy) ^
This is Nicola Oberto's debut vintage
of Bricco Mollea, using fruit from vines
WINE & SPIRITS

FEBRUARY 2021

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Wine & Spirits - February 2021

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - February 2021
