Wine & Spirits - April 2021 - 109

Wine&Spirits
floral complexity to come forward in the finish. It feels crisp, like a twilit patio dinner of
roast chicken and charred summer greens on
a humid, cloudless summer night. § David Milligan Selections, Ridgefield, CT
523405

92 | Lacheteau

$27

2019 Pouilly-Fumé ^ Like a veteran tour
guide, this wine calmly leads through classic
Pouilly-Fumé flavors ( " Kindly look to your
left, and you'll see grassy citrus flecked with
flint and pepper... " ). Some bitterness dissipates with air, leaving a direct line to the
fruit-grippy white peach and grapefruit
pith-that, in turn, cedes to a honeysuckle
finish. § Advantage International, Doral, FL
523411

90 | Jean Pabiot

$40

2017 Pouilly-Fumé Kiméride ^ Alain Pabiot
selects this fruit from parcels around Les
Loges where the vines are more than 40 years
old. This 2017 has a raw ginger bite that, in
combination with the struck-flint smoke and
golden apple fruit, leaves a dark and stormy
impression. But the wine retains its finesse,
like the manager at a classical Michelinstarred restaurant washing dishes in their
suit. Its minerality segues into a voluptuous,
textured finish. § V.O.S. Selections, NY
523407

90 | Dom. Tinel-Blondelet

$37

2019 Pouilly-Fumé Génetin ^ Culled from
35-year-old vines growing in limestone soils,
this wine is nimble, carrying its ripe tropical
fruit on a lean frame. Refreshing and clean,
the grassy floral finish has just enough green
notes and minerality to add character without any hint of bitterness. § Kysela Père et Fils,
Winchester, VA
523408

88 | Jean Pabiot

$22

2019 Pouilly-Fumé Domaine des Fines
Caillotttes (Best Buy) ^ Pabiot ferments each
of 30 parcels separately and spontaneously
before using the elements to blend the wine
the following March. This Pouilly-Fumé feels
warming and restorative, like a lemon-andginger tisane. § V.O.S. Selections, NY

SANCERRE
523379

93 | Fournier

$65

2019 Sancerre Clos du Roc ^ Clos du Roc is
a south-facing site overlooking Saint-Satur,
nestled against a forested hilltop. In 2019, the
vines grew a bold, juicy Sancerre, with upfront citrus and floral pear notes giving way
to rich mango and papaya at the end. The
structure marries these two fruit tones, the
wine seamlessly gliding between extremes.
It's got just enough flintiness to hint at the

silex soils under the vineyard while the fruit
oozes sunlight. § David Milligan Selections,
Ridgefield, CT
523372

93 | Langlois-Chateau

$37

2019 Sancerre Château de FontaineAudon ^ Château de Fontaine-Audon is in
the northwest end of the appellation, its
37 acres of vines planted in a band of silex
soils on a south-facing slope. The aromas,
perhaps owing to those silex soils, suggest
grilled whole grapefruit, while layers of floral notes transition into a deep core of orange
kumquat. The acidity keeps it lifted, sustaining the wine's succulence and depth with a
refreshing, high-tone spice. § Vintus, NY
523361

92 | A&A Chaumeau

$26

2019 Sancerre La Maison d'Anaïs ^ Sylvie
Chaumeau oversees this family domaine in
Bué with her cousin, Jean-Jacques Auchère,
farming 34 acres, mostly sauvignon blanc.
Snappy green beans might be the first thing
to pull your attention when you smell the
wine, but the chalky power will take your full
attention as soon as you taste it. It bolsters
the pear-ish fruit, rendering a rich, lasting,
fresh Sancerre marked with a healthy earthen
character. § Shiverick Imports, Los Angeles, CA
523367

92 | Fournier

$65

2019 Sancerre Les Monts Damnés ^ This
wine was described either as " thiccc (with
three c's) " or " snug in its tights, " depending on the generation of the taster. While
it's certainly rich and fleshy, its open structure allows glimpses into layers of flavor, like
candied lemon and apple skin. With enough
air, a beautiful yellow plum and peach finish
comes forward. Enjoy this as it warms up in
the glass alongside a range of soft cheeses. §
David Milligan Selections, Ridgefield, CT
523371

92 | Le Roi des Pierres

W&S scores are based
on quality and distinctive
regional character,
to help you find delicious
wines grown and
made with integrity.
100
TRANSCENDENT

A wine that speaks directly from
the earth, communicating the
flavors of its place with unequaled
complexity and intensity; it will
offer pleasure for decades.

96-99
ASTONISHING, RARE

A wine that saturates the senses
with flavors that feel unique
and thrilling; a rare landmark for its region.

$38

2018 Sancerre Grande Cuvée La Chaudouillonne ^ Selected from vineyards planted
on the stony caillottes soils around Verdigny,
this wine reminded NY sommelier Jonathan
Eichholz " of what Sancerre used to taste
like, " before the continuing impacts of climate change. The initial scents of mowed
grass and grapefruit give way to a meaty limestone buzz in the core of the wine. § David Milligan Selections, Ridgefield, CT
523377

92 | Fournier

Our Score
Definitions

93-95
EXCITING, DISTINCTIVE

A wine that transcends simple
typicity to its region or variety-a
vivid, singular expression of place.

90-92
DELICIOUS, COMPELLING

A compelling wine of its
region; a delicious, finessed
expression of a place.

88-89
D E L I C I O U S , R E P R E S E N TAT I V E

Well-made, pleasurable and
true to its region or variety.

85-87
BALANCED, CROWD PLEASING

Identifiable in style and regional
character, and qualitatively solid.

$30

2019 Sancerre Silex ^ This company buys
their grapes from a single family estate in
Chavignol who farm on silex soils. This wine
is more about its driving, energetic minerality than its fruit, and that minerality melds

80-84
USEFUL

Simple wine that will either
quench thirst or play a useful role at the table.
WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2021

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Wine & Spirits - April 2021

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