Wine & Spirits - April 2021 - 72

Year's Best US Pinot Noirs
livelier with air, a juicy exuberance grounded
by spicy stem tannin and mouthwatering
acidity. Showing beautifully now, this is ready
to pour with a pork chop. -P.J.C. (676 cases)
521359

93 | Deovlet

$60

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Sanford & Benedict
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Redolent of strawberries, thyme and rosemary blossoms, this is
rich and forward, with a gentle acidity that
provides focus and persistence. -P.J.C.
(W&S 10/20; 145 cases) §
521443

93 | Domaine de la Côte

$90

2018 Sta. Rita Hills La Côte Pinot Noir ^
From a southeast-facing site in the western
reaches of the Sta. Rita Hills, this has a strong
marine character, with scents of smoke and
dried seaweed overlaying dark red fruits. A
whole-cluster smokiness currently shrouds
the wine, but cellar time will tame that.
-P.J.C. (W&S 10/20; 500 cases) §

clones, this is macerated for 30 days, with
half the fruit in whole bunches, then aged
in neutral barrels. It smells like a spice box,
clove, bergamot and violet scents girding
dark strawberry fruit. The flavors are tart and
transparent, the wine energetic and savory.
For a smoked chicken. -P.J.C. (W&S 10/20;
675 cases) §
522921

92 | Brewer-Clifton

92 | Deovlet

93 | Foxen

$62

2017 Sta. Rita Hills La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Quite possibly the richest
of the Foxen pinots we tasted for this issue,
this starts off on a reductive note but turns
rounded and ripe with air, the dark cherrystrawberry flavors offset by a spicy oak
accent. It's hard not to be swayed by such luxurious, lush fruit. Pour it with a beef braise.
-P.J.C. (327 cases) §
523087

93 | Melville

$50

2019 Sta. Rita Hills Estate Melville Vineyard Sandy's Block Pinot Noir ^ Slow to
rouse, this '19 is a study in cluster spice when
first poured, showing scents of licorice, bay
leaf, bergamot and tea-the fruit tucked
in behind. A luminous core of red fruits
emerges with a day of air, attractive strawberry and red cherry, sleek, refined, exotic
and alluring-and in need of cellar time to
emerge more fully. -P.J.C. (590 cases) §
521379

93 | Melville

$50

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Sandy's Block Pinot
Noir ^ From a sandy site planted to four
72

WINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2021

$55

2018 Sta. Rita Hills La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Delicate and smoky, this
feels pure and succulent, with translucent
red-fruit flavors and a modest oak frame providing focus and length. It's liable to gather
more gravitas with cellar time. -P.J.C. (W&S
10/20; 135 cases) §
521441

92 | Domaine de la Côte

523016

$40

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^
Bright raspberry red in the glass, this is lively
with candied red fruits, grounded by a hint
of cocoa. The flavors are broad and expansive, drawn out by an oak richness, the fruit
vibrant and flavorful. -P.J.C. (1,969 cases) §
521357

$75

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Memorious Pinot Noir ^
Domaine de la Côte's whole-cluster expression is never subtle, especially when first
opened. This wine smells like crushed bergamot and violets, a heady aroma that doesn't
prepare you for the depth of dark, sweet
berry fruit it delivers. Earth, mushroom and
amaro spices emerge on the finish. It's got
a lot to say, and will need some cellar time
to bring it into focus. -P.J.C. (W&S 10/20;
250 cases) §
523005

92 | Etude

$65

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Etude Forté Fiddlestix
Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ This wine is exceedingly well built with a cinnamon oak frame,
a dark cherry scent and flavors to match.
Its texture is seductive, seamless and suave.
While it doesn't seem to come from any one
place, it's delicious and polished, a wine to
decant and serve with duck breast. -P.J.C.
(407 cases) §
523085

92 | Melville

$60

2019 Sta. Rita Hills Estate Melville Vineyard Terraces Pinot Noir ^ Cherry, spiced
cherry, cherry tobacco-this is a youthful
study in the key of cherries. There's a spiciness adorning the fruit, but it's the purity of
expression that's the attraction now, a tense
line of acid and velvety grip. Showing a lot
of energy, it should meld nicely in the cellar.
-P.J.C. (494 cases) §
521380

92 | Melville

$60

92 | Samsara

$58

92 | Samsara

$68

91 | Sandhi

$30

91 | Alma Rosa

$68

91 | Foxen

$70

2018 Sta. Rita Hills Anna's Block Pinot
Noir ^ From an eight-acre parcel planted on a
south-facing slope to multiple pinot clones
in 2001, this balances its concentrated flavors with driving acidity. It feels tart and
lean, with notes of anise and cranberries
that would complement a lean cut of beef.
-P.J.C. (W&S 10/20; 575 cases) §
523145
2018 Sta. Rita Hills Las Hermanas Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ An exuberant whole-cluster scent elevates the fruit of this pinot into
a savory realm, with scents of black cherry
and bergamot, bay laurel and cut tobacco.
The flavors are lean and fresh, striking a balance between fruit and savor with an attractive tension. Pour it now with lamb shoulder.
-P.J.C. (151 cases) §
523149
2018 Sta. Rita Hills La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir ^ Understated and a bit
reductive, this wine's spiced berry scent
lies beneath its whole-cluster savor. The flavors are also in a spicy realm-dark berries
and sassafras-with elegant and spicy tannins providing a refined texture. -P.J.C. (47
cases) §
521392
2018 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir (Best Buy) ^
This bottling comes mostly from Sandhi's
own vineyards, with a healthy dollop from
Sanford & Benedict Vineyard. Given the pedigree and the complexity, this wine is a steal.
The marriage of light pomegranate fruit and
smoky cluster spice is haunting, vibrant and
assertive, the whole-bunch component providing ballast and depth, but the wine's acidity is the lasting impression. For duck prosciutto. -P.J.C. (W&S 10/20; 1,117 cases) §
523245
2018 Sta. Rita Hills El Jabali Pinot Noir ^
Lean and red-fruited, this wine's cranberry
and red-cherry scents have a flower blossom lift. For all of that lightness its flavors
are concentrated-red-fruit compote limned
with a vinous contour-finishing tight with
firm tannins. Everything's there, it just needs
time to knit. -P.J.C. (210 cases) §
523018
2017 Sta. Rita Hills Fe Ciega Vineyard
Pinot Noir ^ Spiced strawberry and a hint of
fruit leather are complemented by a lean,
toasty-oak note. The fruit flavors remain
dark red, the textures windswept and firm.
Pour for a Wagyu burger. -P.J.C. (224 cases) §
523147

Wine & Spirits - April 2021

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