Wine & Spirits - April 2021 - 97

Focus
Burgundy

523972

WHITE

tart and zingy acid structure. Grand, closed
off in the end, showing some of the warmth
of the site, this needs bottle age to lengthen
out. § Albert Bichot USA, Glen Allen, VA
523982

CH A B L I S
GRAND CRU

90 | Albert Bichot

523985

92 | Albert Bichot

$121

2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Domaine
Long-Depaquit ^ Concentrated and compressed, this is a tough young Chablis with
a texture that points to its provenance-3.7
acres of clay and Kimmeridgean limestone
with hard marl. Tangy notes of orange, bitter melon and dry honey seem to come right
from the rock. This should blossom with six
to ten years in the cellar. § Albert Bichot USA,
Glen Allen, VA
523987

92 | Albert Bichot

$107

2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Vaudésirs
Domaine Long-Depaquit ^ From a parcel of
45-year-old vines, this wine has the scent of
early spring, opening to apple blossoms and
Queen Anne's lace. The fruit has a juicy apple
freshness, taking on depth and power over
the course of several days. The delicate floral
notes seem to emanate from the lees, adding
to the range and persistence of the wine's flavor. Built to cellar. § Albert Bichot USA, Glen
Allen, VA
523981

92 | Louis Jadot

$92

2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots ^
This wine's structure is equal to its concentration of lemon, lime pith and pineapple
ripeness. Tina Vaughn of NYC's The Simone
described its tropical fruit scents on a cold
January day, suggesting " You can smell the
snow coming. " A substantive grand cru, this
is built for long aging. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
523988

91 | Albert Bichot

Our blind panels tasted 374 new-release
Burgundy wines for this issue. Joshua
Greene, our critic for Burgundy wines,
rated 110 as exceptional (90+) and 9 as
Best Buys. Find a complete list of wines
tasted and all reviews at
wineandspiritsmagazine.com.

$236

2018 Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne
Monopole Domaine Long-Depaquit ^
Located on a steep slope at the eastern edge
of Les Preuses where it falls into Vaudésir,
this 5.8-acre monopole is protected from the
north winds and open to the sun. Its 46-yearold vines produced a ripe 2018, holding rich
notes of apple sauce and lemon custard in a

$107

2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots
Domaine Long-Depaquit ^ With its sweet
citrus notes, this wine's overt fruit and cardamom spice offers a lot of sensual appeal.
" It's sexy, but is it Chablis? " one taster asked,
then dove back for another sip. § Albert Bichot
USA, Glen Allen, VA

PREMIER CRU
$49

2018 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume ^ Round
and supple, this wine's flavors have the cool
clarity of rain bringing out the limestone
minerality, layered with nectarine, tangerine and orange citrus notes. A hint of oak in
the structure makes the wine feel sleek and
sophisticated without being flashy. § Kobrand,
Purchase, NY
523969

92 | Defaix Frères

$50

2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons ^ The Defaix
brothers farm their 66 acres of vines using
organic methods so that Didier Defaix can
ferment all his wines without added yeasts.
He vinifies 20 percent of his Vaillons lot in
neutral oak barrels, the balance in stainless
steel, presenting a tight and youthful 2018,
its floral notes hinting at the depth of fruit
still closed off behind a mineral wall. The
concentrated, briny flavors promise the fossilized-oyster-shell bliss to come with several
years of bottle age. § Taub Family Selections,
Boca Raton, FL
523973

92 | Louis Jadot

$73

2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaucopins Domaine
Long-Depaquit ^ Bichot's Chablis domaine
includes 12.8 acres in Vaucopins; this wine
fermented and aged mostly in stainless steel
with 15 percent of the lot in used oak barrels, developing leesy complexity to its brisk
cool fruit. Tina Vaughn of NYC's The Simone
described the wine as delicate and lady-like,
with scents of lemon sorrel to pour with a
spicy potato soup. § Albert Bichot USA, Glen
Allen, VA

C OTE D'OR
C HASSAGNE-MONT R A CH E T

523978

93 | Louis Jadot

91 | Albert Bichot

$52

2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre ^
This savory white has the broad-shouldered
appeal of a Côte d'Or chardonnay, its earthen
Chablis character enriched by oak, lasting
on notes of meadow herbs, alfalfa and raw
almonds. It's clean, with concentration to its
fruit and lasting spice, a substantial Chablis
for an oyster stew. § Kobrand, Purchase, NY

524014

93 | Louis Jadot

$108

92 | Lucien Le Moine

$235

91 | Domaine CoffinetDuvernay

$125

2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle Domaine Duc de
Magenta ^ The Domaine Duc de Magenta
owns this monopole surrounding a chapel
in Morgeot; Jadot makes the wine under a
long-term contract. This is a classical Chassagne, with scents of white roses, orange
blossoms and green tea. Jason Jacobeit of
NYC's Bâtard and Somm Cellars described
its generous suppleness as " a deep belly of
fruit, with good lift and purity to it-mouthwatering Morgeot. "  § Kobrand, Purchase, NY
524016
2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot ^ This wine's deep yellow-apple flavors
open to a rich and luxurious complexity as it
develops with air. It's broad and rich, with a
mineral undercurrent that keeps the flavors
focused. A long, patient élevage in the Saoumas' cold cellars stretches malolactic fermentation into the summer following harvest,
allowing the wine to build its richness mostly
undisturbed. Suited to long aging. § Vintus, NY
524012
2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Maltroie ^ Growing in stones over deep clay over
limestone rock, the vines at this vineyard
produce an ornate Burgundy, their fruit ripened to peachy freshness in 2018. That deliWINE & SPIRITS

APRIL 2021

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Wine & Spirits - April 2021

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