Contents F E AT U R E Retailer Challenge New Orleans retailers get cooking with their favorite gumbo-wine pairings. Reported by Susannah Smith. 12 D E PA R T M E N T S Editor's Note............................1 Contributors............................2 Fined & Filtered.......................6 New Somm Shops. jared hooper talks to sommeliers throwing open the retail doors The future is now. Roger Morris reports on grape vines that have touched down from outer space. Spirits.....................................10 Bittering up. Chantal Martineau reports that America is on the craft vermouth train, finally. TA S T I N G S F E AT U R E Gone Tomorrow Patrick J. Comiskey visits the endangered ancient vines of Contra Costa County, including those at Evangelho Vineyard, in Antioch, (right), some of California's great viticulture assets at risk of extinction. 28 4 WINE & SPIRITS JUNE 2021 At a Glance............................. 35 Top 100 Values for the Year.... 36 W&S Scores Defined.............. 83 YEAR'S BEST US Zins & Mixed Blacks......... 43 FOCUS US Rosé..................................52 Germany: Rhine Riesling.......55 Austrian Grüner Veltliner...... 57 Southern Italian Reds............ 60 Languedoc-Roussillon........... 66 Southwest France....................74 Azores & Canary Islands.........75 Ribera del Duero.................... 77 Chile: Maipo Reds.................. 82 Imported New Releases.......... 85 PHOTOS BY DAYMON GARDNER (GUMBO) AND MARISSA LESHNOV (CONTRA COSTA) Books......................................10 Corey warren reviews American Cider. Patrick j. comiskey reads Vines & Vision in Santa Barbara County.