Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - 62

Focus Southern Italy Indigenous Reds
ing acidity. Don't pass up a chance to try it,
if you can find one of the 4,000 bottles that
were made. § David Bowler Wines, NY
524746

90 | San Salvatore

$25

2019 Campania Aglianico Ceraso ^ This
lively aglianico, vinified entirely in stainless steel, shows flavors of tart red berries
framed by raspy tannins. It's an appealing,
mid-weight wine to serve chilled with a plate
of salumi. § Banville Wine Merchants, NY
524748

88 | Mastroberardino

$21

2018 Irpinia Aglianico (Best Buy) ^ The Mastroberardino family produces this aglianico
with fruit from vines averaging 15 years of
age. It aged for 15 months in oak barrels,
gaining notes of vanilla and spice that accent
the tart red-berry flavors. Rounded tannins
make it accessible now, though it may be better in six months when the oak flavors have
integrated. § Taub Family Selections, Boca
Raton, FL
524753

87 | Ocone

$20

87 | Villa Raiano

$19

2016 Aglianico del Taburno Apollo (Best
Buy) ^ This wine offers juicy cherry and berry
flavors edged with notes of grilled game.
Warm, bristly tannins gird the fruit and call
for pairings with braised meats. § Scoperta
Importing Co, Cleveland Heights, OH
524750
2017 Campania Aglianico (Best Buy) ^
Scents of lilacs lead into tangy blackberry
and raspberry flavors in this fruit-forward
aglianico. Its raspy tannins would match a
juicy burger. § Wine Icons, Tewksbury, NJ

PUGLIA

well-structured zinfandel, finishing on warm
spices and a hint of bitter chocolate. § Imports
Inc./chicago, Chicago, IL
524734

90 | Cosimo Taurino

$66

2013 Salento Negroamaro Patriglione ^
Negroamaro grapes from the Patriglione
vineyard fermented in concrete and aged in
barriques (20 percent new) give a wine with
deep flavors of black plum and licorice layered with notes of roasted mushroom and
grilled nuts. Well-woven acidity keeps the flavors lively, while the leathery tannins accentuate the wine's earthy tones. The wine's
combination of vibrant fruit and developed
flavors put it in a prime drinking window. §
Skurnik Wines & Spirits, NY
524771

90 | Masseria Li Veli

$21

2019 Salento Susumaniello Askos ^ Puglia's
native susumaniello grape has been gaining
fans within the American sommelier community, and this bottling shows why. It opens
with scents of violets that lead into juicy flavors of raspberry and plum edged with notes
of orange zest, white pepper and a pleasant
amaro bitterness. Mid-weight lively, with
good freshness and balance, it's a playful
wine and a versatile companion at the dinner table. § Dalla Terra, Napa, CA
524874

88 | Coppi

$15

2016 Puglia Primitivo Siniscalco (Best
Buy) ^ Scents of garden herbs and orange
zest brighten this wine's juicy raspberry flavors. Vinified entirely in stainless steel, it
shows good purity of fruit and lively flavors
that make for a great by-the-glass selection. §
Imports Inc./chicago, Chicago, IL
524859

88 | Indigenous

$17

2019 Salento Primitivo (Best Buy) ^ Flavors of raspberry jam, licorice and orange
peel combine to make this primitivo a rich
and warming choice for hearty pastas and
braised meats. § Indigenous Selections, Fort
Lauderdale, FL
524775

88 | Indigenous

$17

87 | A Mano

$15

$32

2018 Puglia Nero di Troia (Best Buy) ^ This
single-variety bottling of Puglia's native nero
di Troia is worth a try for its tangy seededberry flavors and lively acidity balanced
by some appealing earthy undertones. For
salumi or salty cheeses. § Indigenous Selections,
Fort Lauderdale, FL
524857

2017 Gioia del Colle Primitivo Senatore ^
This wine balances the ripeness of sunsoaked primitivo grapes with mouthwatering acidity and firm tannins. It drinks like a

2019 Puglia Primitivo Imprint (Best Buy) ^
Harvested slightly overripe, this primitivo
fermented at low temperature, then aged for

524873

91 | Coppi

62

WINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2021

six months in concrete. It shows bold flavors
of red raspberry tinged with notes of orange
peel and cracked black pepper with plenty of
lift and freshness. § Regal Wine Imports, Moorestown, NJ
524730

87 | Cantele

$16

87 | Masseria Li Veli

$15

87 | Paolo Petrilli

$15

85 | Tenute Rubino

$11

2016 Salice Salentino Riserva (Best Buy) ^
This negroamaro is earthy and dark fruited,
with chewy tannins that frame flavors of dark
chocolate, licorice and tobacco. Pull the cork
when you're looking for savory flavors rather
than fruity ones. § Winebow Imports, NY
524719
2019 Salice Salentino Passamante (Best
Buy) ^ Six months of barrique age has rounded
out this wine's flavors of dried cranberry,
cacao and licorice. Tangy acidity keeps the
flavors buoyant as it finishes on a bright
spray of orange zest. § Dalla Terra, Napa, CA
524774
2019 Cacc'è Mmitte di Lucera Motta del
Lupo (Best Buy) ^ Made in stainless steel
tanks, this offers appealing scents of violets
and flavors of mixed berries with punchy
acidity and raspy tannins. It's a fun, affordable look at some of Puglia's native varieties-nero di Troia, montepulciano, sangiovese and bombino. § V.O.S. Selections, NY
524863
2018 Salento Primitivo Punta Aquila
(Best Buy) ^ Flavors of blackberry jam combine with lively licorice notes in this primitive, a spicy companion for Sichuan stir-fry. §
Soilair Selection, NY

SIC ILY
MOUNT ETNA
524803

95 | Tasca d'Almerita

$100

2017 Etna Rosso Tenuta Tascante Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. ^ Last year, Alberto
Tasca debuted four single contrada Etna
Rossos and his team at Tenuta Tascante has
followed up with another strong performance in the 2017 vintage. All four of the
wines are recommended here; all are vinified in the same way (fermented with temperature control and aged one year in large
oak casks) to highlight the expression of each
contrada and its different era of lava flows.
The V.V. (vigna vecchia, or old vine) grows
at a parcel planted in 1961 on the terraced
slopes of Contrada Sciaranuova. It's an exciting wine, brilliant translucent ruby in color
and bursting with scents of fresh flowers
and wild herbs. The red berry and cherry
https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/cantina+coppi+senatore+primitivo+gioia+colle+puglia+italy
Wine & Spirits - June 2021

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2021
