Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - 79

Focus Ribera del Duero
of 3,050 feet, near the town of Olmedillo de
Roa. Isaac Fernández makes the wine with
fruit from vines that range from 20 to 90
years old. He allows it to ferment spontaneously and then ages the wine for two years
in new French oak barrels, concentrating
the red fruit into quiet power. It's a wine
that doesn't show very much up front, then
lasts with a complex range of aromas, from
tobacco to cherry, green fig to smoky earth.
Silken and elegant for its size, this has the
depth for aging. § Wine Smith Co., Atlanta, GA

gent gamey note at first, dark and super
rich. The extract mellows into a plump texture as the wine takes on air, the pungency
opening toward lamb-like and lanolin scents
and freshly dug earth. A wine of power and
restraint. § South River Imports, Edgewater, MD
525612

93 | Valparaiso

92 | Altos de Valdoso

525641

93 | Protos

$45

2015 Ribera del Duero 5 Año Reserva ^ A
powerful 2015, all about minerality, this wine
has a sense of tensile strength to its tannic
structure. That resistance to oxygen gives
way to a young and graceful tempranillo,
revealing roasted tomato scents and red raspberry notes as the darkness of the fruit and
tannins begin to yield. Still young, this will
benefit from several years in the cellar. § Monsieur Touton Selection, NY
525635

93 | Trus

$35

2016 Ribera del Duero Reserva (Best Buy) ^
Based just to the north of Pesquera de Duero,
Trus farms 148 acres of vines. The fruit for
this wine comes from the older (25-year-old)
parcels, growing in limestone-rich soils near
the winery in Piñel de Abajo. It ferments in
egg-shaped concrete vats, then ages in 225liter French oak barrels, developing as a
supple, muscular wine with brisk limestonedriven acidity. It offers complexity without
aggression and power without weight, layering scents of plum skin, tar and tobacco over
earthy tannins, with energy that drives the
flavor on for minutes after each sip. § South
River Imports, Edgewater, MD
525529

93 | Trus

$37

2018 Ribera del Duero Punto Geodésico ^
From five high-altitude estate vineyards in
Burgos, this wine is saturated with extract,
but not generic. Its earthiness carries a pun-

$60

2017 Ribera del Duero Raíces de Valparaiso ^ This is a selection of fruit from parcels
of ancient vines surrounding the winery in
Quintana del Pidio, blended with fruit from
younger vines at two other estate holdings-
in Sotillo (also in Burgos) and in Pesquera
de Duero (Valladolid). Its floral notes of lavender honey and roses come together with
the concentrated fruit in an impression of
beeswax, satin-textured, a generous balance
of sweet blackberry flavors and earthy savor.
Decant a bottle for Cantonese beef with black
mushrooms. § M.S. Walker, Somerville, MA
525604
$35

2017 Ribera del Duero Crianza ^ Grown at
high altitudes on the eastern side of Ribera
del Duero, this is a tight, high-acid wine with
bright red fruit and the tannic edge of raspberry seeds. The flavors have clarity and
youthful energy, a clean wine with stamina to
take on a trotter terrine or a gamey, thick-cut
pork chop. § Tri-Vin Imports, New Rochelle, NY
525600

92 | Atalayas de Golbán

$22

2017 Ribera del Duero La Celestina Crianza Tempranillo (Best Buy) ^ This wine is a
blend from old vines at high altitudes in Soria
with richer fruit from Burgos. Celestina ages
in 25 percent new barrels and represents the
winemaker's preferred selection of grapes.
It's a silken beauty, a puff of smoke, a startle
of blackberry and smoother black currant.
The smokiness turns to stemminess turns to
herbal notes of freshness as the fruit opens to
licorice and plum. More ambitious than the
Torre de Golbán Crianza (also recommended
here), this wine needs time to prove itself and
may well overtake its sibling. § Aviva Vino, NY
525533

92 | Felix Callejo

$120

2018 Ribera del Duero ^ The Callejo family
farms 135 acres in Sotillo de la Ribera, selecting fruit from two of their parcels with thin
soils over limestone rock at altitudes reaching 3,000 feet. The marginal sites produce
a red-fruited wine, lean and compressed.
Worked by gravity and fermented without
added yeasts, the wine captures a mineral
freshness, like spring rain, adding detail to
the tannins. The deep red cherry flavors are
pointed up by high-toned acidity and some
earthy barnyard funk. This will benefit from

several years of bottle age. § Schneider's of Capital Hill, Washington, DC
525544

92 | Hnos. Pérez Pascuas

$29

92 | Protos

$75

92 | S. Arroyo

$40

92 | Santa Eulalia

$13

92 | Valduero

$79

2017 Ribera del Duero El Pedrosal Crianza (Best Buy) ^ Scents of roses and fragrant
red fruits infuse this wine's brisk cherry and
berry flavors. It feels sleek and smooth, the
fruit lasting alongside dark baking spice. It's
a modern wine that gives an impression of
Moorish Spain, suited to a Moroccan tagine. §
Think Global, Santa Barbara, CA
525645
2014 Ribera del Duero Gran Reserva ^ As
the initial scent of oak begins to dissipate,
this wine shows deep, rich flavors that are
less about fruit and more about the foods
you might serve with it-tart cherry tomatoes and roast lamb. It's powerful and will
benefit from several years of age. § Monsieur
Touton Selection, NY
525553
2015 Ribera del Duero Señorío de Sotillo
Reserva ^ The Arroyo family farms 248 acres
of vines in Sotillo de la Ribera, selecting
their best fruit from two estate parcels for
this reserva. Initially tough and intense, it
opens into a floral beauty, the toasty richness of oak giving way to elegant layers of
tannins and dry spice. Austere and savory,
this would echo the bite of sheep cheese or
add spicy complexity to grilled lamb. § Vinamericas, Miami, FL
525499
2019 Ribera del Duero Riberal Roble Tempranillo (Best Buy) ^ This tangy, gamey red is
light-bodied but complete. Fresh fruit drives
the flavors, bright black cherries over a chassis of oak. There's energy revving the finish
of the wine, youthful dynamism that would
run in tandem with baby lamb deliciousness. §
Shop Around the Corner, Hialeah, FL
525559
2014 Ribera del Duero 6 Años ^ A selection
from parcels where the vines are more than
40 years old, this wine ages three years in
barrels and an additional three years in bottle before release. It offers pure fruit notes
of boysenberry, mouthwatering and crisp,
then moderate tannins bring flavors of bittersweet chocolate and orange zest. Tight
and spicy, this is lovely to drink now, even as
it has enough structure to age. § South River
Imports, Edgewater, MD
525605

WINE & SPIRITS

JUNE 2021

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Wine & Spirits - June 2021

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - June 2021

Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - Cover1
Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - Cover2
Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - 1
Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - 2
Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - 3
Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - Contents
Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - 5
Wine & Spirits - June 2021 - 6
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