Wine & Spirits - Fall 2012 - (Page 24)

HI FIDELITY TERROIR If you believe in the power of wine to carry a message from its vineyard, then you know that some places emit stronger signals in their wines than others. Maybe it’s the earth in which it’s grown, or the winds that bore into the vines; maybe it’s the strength of the sun, or the extreme angle of the slope. In the Old World, the collective consciousness of generations has something to do with it as well, the experience that governs the what, where and how the vines are grown and their fruit turned into wine. The where is oen on primary rock: the limestone of Chablis, Champagne and Jerez, the volcanic ash of Etna and Santorini, the gneiss of the Wachau, the slate of the Mosel, the weathered Atlantic granites and schists of Muscadet and Douro. But that is just the base. To understand the connection between these places and their best wines, we went to the people who have been integral in describing that connection. Some are winemakers, like Toni Bodenstein in Austria or João Nicolau de Almeida and Dirk Niepoort in Portugal. Others work as intermediaries, selling, writing about or pouring the wines for wine drinkers. Each profile is a testament to the power a wine can exert on a person—a power that has much more to do with the pull of a place than any assemblage of fruit flavors and alcohol. And if you don’t believe in terroir, well, here are nine places that might change your mind. 24 W I N E & S P I R I T S FA L L 2 0 1 2

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine & Spirits - Fall 2012

Wine & Spirits - Fall 2012
Contents
Can You Taste Terroir?
Bordeaux Underground
False Identity
Life in the Dirt
Hi-Fidelity Terroir
Dirt Prophets
Five Elements
Terroir Top 100
Vegetable Terroir

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