IJT - CIR - February 2024 - 5S

CIR Supplement Manuscript
Safety Assessment of Hops as Used in
Cosmetics
Lillian Becker*, Ivan Boyer**, Wilma F. Bergfeld***,
Donald V. Belsito***, Ronald A. Hill****, Curtis D. Klaassen***,
Daniel C. Liebler****, James G. Marks Jr****, Ronald C. Shank****,
Thomas J. Slaga***, Paul W. Snyder***, Monice Fiume†, and
Bart Heldreth‡
Abstract
The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract (reported
functions include antimicrobial agent and hair conditioning agent) and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil (reported function is
fragrance). The Panel reviewed the relevant data related to these ingredients. Because final product formulations may contain
multiple botanicals, each containing the same constituents of concern, formulators are advised to be aware of these constituents
and to avoid reaching levels that may be hazardous to consumers. For these ingredients, the Panel was concerned about the
presence of 8-prenylnaringenin, β-myrcene, and quercetin in cosmetics, which could result in estrogenic effects, dermal irritation,
and genotoxicity, respectively. Industry should use current good manufacturing practices to limit impurities and
constituents of concern. The Panel concluded that Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil are safe in
cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Keywords
Cosmetics, Safety, Hops, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil
Introduction
This is a safety assessment of Humulus Lupulus (Hops)
Extract and Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil as used in cosmetics.
According to the web-based Ingredient Dictionary
(wINCI; Dictionary), the functions of Humulus Lupulus
(Hops) Extract in cosmetics include antimicrobial agent, hair
conditioning agent, and skin-conditioning agent - miscellaneous;
Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Oil is reported to function as
a fragrance ingredient (Table 1).1 Antiperspirant agent is also
listed as a function of Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract;
however, antiperspirant agent is not a cosmetic function and is
not evaluated in this safety assessment. Both of these ingredients
are derived from the strobile of the Humulus lupulus
(commonly called hops) plant. The strobiles of this plant are
generally known as an ingredient in the brewing of beer.2,3
Previously, the Dictionary listed four other Humulus lupulus
(hops)-derived ingredients: Humulus Lupulus (Hops)
Cone Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Flower Extract,
Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Stem Extract, and Humulus Lupulus
(Hops) Strobile (Table 1).4 It was determined by the
International Nomenclature Committee (INC) that these ingredients
were all extracts of the inflorescence (hops cone) of
the Humulus lupulus (hops) plant. It was also determined that
the previous definition of Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract,
i.e., the extract ofthe whole plant, was erroneous and that this
ingredient is also the extract of the inflorescence (hops cone).
To correct these errors, these five ingredients were deemed
synonymous and the single name Humulus Lupulus (Hops)
Extract is now the official INCI name. Additionally, Humulus
Lupulus (Hops) Cone Oil (the volatile oil obtained from the
cones of Humulus lupulus), has been changed to Humulus
Lupulus (Hops) Oil and the definition is now " the volatile oil
obtained from the inflorescence (hops cone) of Humulus
*Cosmetic Ingredient Review Former Scientific Analyst/Writer
**Cosmetic Ingredient Review Former Toxicologist
***Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Member
****Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Former Member
†Cosmetic Ingredient Review Senior Director
‡Cosmetic Ingredient Review Executive Director
Corresponding Author:
Bart Heldreth, Executive Director, Cosmetic Ingredient Review, 1620 L
Street, NW, Suite 1200, Washington, DC 20036, USA.
Email: cirinfo@cir-safety.org
International Journal of Toxicology
2024, Vol. 43(Supplement 1) 5S-29S
©The Author(s) 2023
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DOI: 10.1177/10915818231221796
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IJT - CIR - February 2024

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IJT - CIR - February 2024 - Cover1
IJT - CIR - February 2024 - Cover2
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IJT - CIR - February 2024 - Contents
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IJT - CIR - February 2024 - Cover3
IJT - CIR - February 2024 - Cover4
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