bake - May 2013 - 44

Revisiting
a Classic…
The Bagel
How does a food become a classic? There are a few common

the customs of these early bakers, the New York bagel is still

features to consider: the food has a unique history that often

produced using high-quality ingredients combined with tradi-

approaches myth status; there is an ultimate “gold standard” to

tional methods.

which all variations are compared; and there is a common familiarity that transcends geographic and generational differences.

The dough-making process is similar to other bread-making.

Let’s consider the BAGEL.

The formula is lean using ﬂour, compressed yeast, salt and malt
syrup. Many shops use from 100 to 300 lb of high-gluten ﬂour

History or myth?

in one batch. They run fairly stiff dough using only 48% to 50%

It’s widely accepted that bagels came to the United States from

hydration. Many claim the water — that New York water — is

the Jewish immigrants of Eastern Europe, but there appears to

the key to making the gold-standard bagel. No baker is able to

be debate on the true European origins of the bagel. One side

explain it, but they are adamant that their water is essential to

claims the ﬁrst bagel was introduced in 1683 when a Viennese

making the best bagel in the world.

baker wanted to pay tribute to Polish King Jan Sobieski for
saving the people of Austria from Turkish invaders. Since the

Today, many bagel shops are mechanized, but there are still

king was known to have a passion for riding, the baker made

a few places that have held to the tradition of hand-forming.

rolls in the shape of a stirrup, known in German as breugel.

Once formed, bagels are proofed until they have doubled in
size. They are then dropped into a huge vat of boiling water for

The other side notes that the ﬁrst printed reference of bagels

a few minutes. This quick boiling gives them their shiny crust.

came even earlier, in 1610, in the Community Regulations of

And ﬁnally, they are placed on canvas-covered wooden trays

Krakow, Poland. These regulations stated that “bagels would be

and baked in conventional reel ovens until done.

given as a gift to any woman in childbirth.” The ring shape may
have been seen as a symbol of life.

Classic test #2: A gold standard exists – pass!
Bagels galore

Classic test #1: Unique history – pass!

Once the product of small, specialty bakeries on the East

The New York bagel

Coast, the bagel is now seen in bakeries, restaurants, and

Walk down virtually any street in New York and you will spot

grocery stores all over the country. Beyond just breakfast

people in cafes, along the sidewalks, or running into a subway

bread, the bagel is now used as sandwich bread and can be

station enjoying the noble roll with a hole — hard and crusty on

found in snack foods as a dried chip.

the outside, soft and warm on the inside; the New York bagel.
Bagel formulation has adapted to regional tastes and the needs
New York City is the domestic birthplace of the bagel. In the

of an expanded distribution network. The traditionally lean

late 1800s, Eastern European immigrants brought their skills as

formula can now include sugar, fat, dough strengtheners and

bagel bakers to the city, and by 1915 a bagel bakers’ union was

conditioners, as well as shelf-life extenders. Besides the richer

formed to maintain the art and science of the craft. Carrying on

dough, the traditional ﬂavors of salt, egg, onion, rye and plain

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