bake - March/April 2020 - 53

SUSTAINABLE
PUFF PASTRIES

ing, no unwanted air pockets are formed and the melting is
very consistent, resulting in the even honeycomb structured
desired in puff pastries. By the time the fat does melt, the
pastry has been adequately structured. The neutral flavor
of the high oleic soybean shortening does not contribute
any off flavors or notes, resulting in a very clean taste in the
finished product. While butter contributed a very desirable
flavor, the high oleic shortening produces a non-dairy, clean
tasting product.
How does high oleic soybean shortening meet the industry's
need for functional, sustainable ingredients in puff pastries?
PHO-based shortenings were developed to approximate the
functionality of butter and lard, and over the decades, the
baking professional has developed a great deal of knowhow and experience in the use of these shortenings. However, with interesterified high oleic soy shortenings, the baking
professional in a post-PHO world still has a very functional
QUALISOY, JESSICA MARS

QUALISOY

shortening toolbox to work from. Because of its fatty acid
composition, structure, and melting and handling characteristics, high oleic shortenings are drop-in substitutes for these
fats. There is no need to change formulations or production
techniques when substituting high oleic shortening for other
fats. Also, because of the inherent flexibility of interesterification, shortenings can be tailored to exact specifications
if desired. High oleic soybeans are also grown domestically
and meet strict sustainability standards.

Croissant Innovation
The croissant lends itself to creativity because it features a buttery, flaky bread that accommodates both
sweet and savory flavors. Ever since Dominique Ansel
opened the doors with his innovative hybrid croissant
donut, the Cronut, bakers have looked for exciting ways
to make the pastry stand out from the crowd.
In November 2019, a new bakery debuted in Houston,
Texas that quickly made a name for itself with a special
croissant. Koffeteria, from former Top Chef contestant
Vanarin Kuch, made sure its opening would be highly
anticipated thanks to a Hot Cheetos-crusted croissant.
The spicy take on the beloved pastry is one of several
over-the-top croissants available at Koffeteria. Another
croissant initially offered at the bakery was crusted
with sour cream and onion chips.
Also in November of last year, Nathaniel Reid, a
James Beard Award nominee for Outstanding Baker,
teamed up with another top chef in the St. Louis, Missouri area for a crossover menu featuring croissants.
Chef Reid and Chef Loryn Nalic of acclaimed restaurant
Balkan Treat Box worked together to create new croissant-based menu items, including the baklava croissant.
The baklava croissant combined Chef Reid's popular
almond croissant with Chef Nalic's recipe for baklava,
which is topped with salted mixed nuts and uses a
syrup made with orange and rose.
On the East Coast, a major innovator in the croissant
category is New York City's Supermoon Bakehouse. The
bakery's imaginative flavors are so decadently sweet
that they have even been featured at the popular Dessert
Goals festival in the past.
The bakery's Hot Apple Pie Twice-Baked Croissant
is filled with caramelized apple chunks, apple cider
vinegar, almond cream, and cinnamon spiced creme
custard, then topped with an oat crumble and baked
again. It's served with butterscotch sauce and fresh
cream to top.

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