PROFILES H ead baker Don Carlos Ocadio of El Burrito Mercado in St. Paul, Minnesota, has baked bread and pan dulce since the beginning, in 1979, for this family-owned retailer located in the heart of the Twin Cities. This past year, he observes, has been different than any other - because of the harsh effects of the COVID-19 pandemic. For about eight months a year ago, the bakery operated under strict guidelines in order to protect customers and staff. Customers were allowed to walk into the store but had to point to what they wanted to purchase. JUNE 21 | PANADERĺA 45