bake Special Report - November 2022 - 32

He found this corn in a bootlegger's
field near Dillon, S.C., in 1997 and
planted and harvested his own first
crop of 30 acres in 1998. Known
as Carolina Gourdseed White, the
single-family hand-select dated
back to the late 1600s.
Roberts passed Gourdseed grits
Harry Peemoeller (left) and Glenn Roberts are optimistic about the future of land-race grains.
the ingredients didn't exist. Local
growers did not produce them
and would not be persuaded to
try. In particular, grains of the era
like Carolina Gold rice, linchpin of
Carolina cuisine, were nearly impossible
to source.
Roberts' career epiphany came
on a hot summer afternoon in the
kitchen of an historic Charleston,
S.C., property. An elaborate rice
dinner just hours away, a grower
in Savannah - the sole source for
Carolina Gold rice - delivered a bag
of rice writhing with weevils. At 7
p.m., he found himself at a prep table
with two dishwashers, sweating in
his suit and tie, and rousting weevils
from Carolina Gold - the dinner
swirling by without him. He thought
of his mother's cooking when he was
a boy. He looked at the lousy rice.
He vowed to put Carolina Gold into
serious production so this would
not happen again.
For the next several years, Roberts
grew small-plot Carolina Gold in
Charleston and worked with a rice
geneticist in Texas to reinvigorate
the seed, which, through neglect
and inactivity, had begun to display
characteristics of its sister rice,
32
Carolina White. To support his
experiments in Carolina Gold, whose
resurrection now represented an
all-consuming preoccupation, he
began to research other regional
heirloom grains of the era he could
around to chefs in Charleston and
Atlanta, and they all went crazy.
The discovery of Carolina
Gourdseed White, and other nearly
extinct varieties of Southern mill
corn, fueled his efforts to preserve
nutrition and flavor in heirloom corn.
But he knew the corn would have
to be milled as carefully as it was
grown.
Returning to historic documents,
What Glenn is
doing in South
Carolina is
absolutely
phenomenal. He
is a Jedi of the
grain business. "
Harry Peemoeller, senior instructor at
Johnson & Wales University
move more quickly into production.
The research began with corn.
In 1995, Glenn explored rural back
roads looking for the famous white
Carolina mill corn that was revered
for its high mineral and floral characteristics
and its creamy mouthfeel.
Roberts learned about an heirloom
that had been bred to blow down in
late fall for hand harvest under snow
in deep winter. The corn, an 1850
yellow dent of Appalachian provenance
called John Haulk, was known
to have made the " finest cornbread
and mush. " The fact that it was
milled under freezing conditions
after full field ripening and drying
puzzled him until he froze and
milled his own Gourdseed White.
The flavors of the cold-milled corn
were stunning. With this experiment,
he " rediscovered " cold milling and,
in so doing, found a way to offset
the heat damage grains experience
between two stones. He also found
a perfect place to store his seed
corn: in the freezer. At this point,
he possessed an ambitious plan:
to make Carolina Gold rice a viable
Southern crop, and to grow, harvest,
and mill other nearly extinct varieties
of heirloom corn and wheat.
Bake Magazine Digital Special Report 4 | Volume 3 | bakemag.com
JOHN UNREIN
http://www.bakemag.com

bake Special Report - November 2022

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of bake Special Report - November 2022

bake Special Report - November 2022 - Intro
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 1
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 2
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 3
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 4
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 5
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 6
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 7
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 8
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 9
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 10
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 11
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 12
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 13
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 14
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 15
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 16
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 17
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 18
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 19
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 20
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 21
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 22
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 23
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 24
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 25
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 26
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 27
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 28
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 29
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 30
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 31
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 32
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 33
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 34
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 35
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 36
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 37
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 38
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 39
bake Special Report - November 2022 - 40
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