Baking & Snack - June 2022 - 62

INCLUSIONS
Brite Donuts & Baked Goods, Chicago, changes weekly,
and while sweet treats dominate, there's always at least
one savory option. One of its more popular items is an
" everything " croissant filled with cream cheese and bacon
jam. On the umami front, Brite offers a soft pretzel-like
braided bun stuffed with pieces of Vienna Beef kosher hot
dogs and topped with poppy seeds, relish, onions, tomatoes,
sport peppers and mustard. It's a pastry spin on the
Chicago-style hot dog, which never has ketchup.
Other savory specialties from Brite include goat
cheese maple-glazed pastries, Earl Grey cinnamon buns
and harissa croissants. Harissa is a hot chili pepper paste
loaded with spices such as garlic, caraway seeds, coriander
and cumin.
Michelin Star-rated Kasama, Chicago, features the
creations of Genie Kwon, a native of New
Orleans with Filipino ancestry. The
pastry chef has been experimenting
with savory flavors, including
a black truffle croissant
and Danish topped with ingredients
such as serrano
ham and
raclette, foie
gras, salmon confit and
cream cheese.
The team at Aya Pastry,
Chicago, is known for
its corned beef and sauerkraut
croissant, kimchi
bacon bread and cheesy
scallion biscuit.
At another Chicago bakery,
Sugargoat Sweets, chef
Stephanie Izard combines sweet
and savory flavors in a Cheez-It
62 Baking & Snack June 2022 / www.bakingbusiness.com
Artisan seeds and semolina provide a crunchy umami topping to
breads. The fermentation process adds the umami flavor.
©Picture Partners - stock.adobe.com
crunch cake, chocolate french fry pie and spiced pecan
brown butter cookies drizzled with soy.
Industrial strength extras
Fresh bakeries have more opportunities to experiment
with savory inclusions, as their products are intended for
immediate consumption. Commercial bakeries require
careful ingredient selection before those little extras get
folded into batters, layered between dough or sprinkled
on top. Inclusions and toppings should not have any deleterious
effect on the baked good. Moisture migration
is one of the most important considerations, as this impacts
quality and shelf life. Others include bleeding, oozing
and color changing.
Commercial baked goods innovators often rely on
value-added inclusions described as fabricated flavorful
bits, chips, chunks, crunches, fillings, flakes, nuggets and
sprinkles. These ingredients are designed to withstand
the rigors of baking and distribution. They can be colored,
fortified and texturized, and through careful manipulation
of formulation, suppliers control their performance
in the finished baked good.
Fabricated inclusions also provide an economical and
easy way to bake limited-time offerings, thereby creating
an urgency to purchase. Their intent is to wow the consumer
with flavor, texture and visual appeal.
" We have our sweet topicals and inclusions to add flavor,
color and texture to baked goods, and many of these
same products can feature a spicy or savory profile, " said
Everything bagel seasoning is one of Kroger's top trends to watch
for in 2022 and demonstrates the popularity of savory flavors.
©Michelle Lee Arnold - stock.adobe.com
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Baking & Snack - June 2022

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