Meat + Poultry - February 2005 - 79

BBQ

I won't use
injected pork;
it's too salty
for me.

As of this past month, the Famous Dave's
chain of barbecue eateries owned 38
locations in addition to 69 franchised units
throughout 24 states.

skin on," he adds. "For pork I like IBP
and Seaboard." Pork babyback ribs are
the only products Hopkins will accept
frozen from his suppliers. He serves
spare ribs, but says the babybacks are
much more popular.
When it comes to chicken, Hopkins
wants carcasses that are at least four
pounds. He likes to think they've
never been frozen - at least that's what
he asks for from his supplier. "I don't
like frozen and I prefer whole birds. I
cut them in half so I can get the size
and look we want."
At his restaurant, turkey is on the
menu. Hopkins uses all breast pieces.
"They can't be any more than 10 percent shot up with solution," he says,
because the liquid taints the flavor. "I
won't use injected pork either. It's too
salty for me."
For its sliced ham, Smokin' Guns
uses Red Label pit hams. The cut, says
Hopkins, looks like a hindquarter,
deboned and cured. "I like to see some
muscle definition," he says.
Phil and Linda continue to compete
in contests. They've got 21 slated for
2005 starting next month. Staying
aware of trends among his competition helps him improve his restaurant
business, where he cooks about 1,100
pounds of meat per month. It often is
the testing ground for the next great
technique or product. "You see everything at the competitions."
K.C.'s BBQ Baron
One of the most successful competi44

I

MEAT&POULTRY

I

February 2005

I

tive barbecue cooks in the
U.S. is Paul Kirk - a.k.a.
"The Baron of BBQ."
During his decades of
competing, Kirk has won 475 cooking and barbecue awards. Included
among these awards are seven world
barbecue championships, including
the American Royal, the world's largest competition.
Kirk could probably recite his meat
preferences in his sleep. "I want a
10-pound brisket because that's what
my cooking times and recipes are
based on," he says. Besides, the yield
is better. I use Certified Angus Beef
and Certified Hereford Beef, both of
which are in the upper five percent of
the choice grade. You see some Wagyu
out there," he says, "but I'm not that
crazy about it." Like Hopkins, Kirk
ages his briskets in a bag,
ideally for 35 days.
For pork butts, Kirk
asks his wholesaler to
get him the biggest he
can, preferably around
eight or nine pounds.
Unlike Hopkins, Kirk
prefers to cook spare
ribs 3.3 pounds or less.
If there is a need for
other ribs, he cooks
loin back ribs, around
two-and-a-half pounds.
When it comes to poultry,
Kirk says he, and many other competition cookers are regularly using the
Smart Chicken brand of air-chilled
chicken. At between three-and-a-half
and four pounds, he says, "They score
better in taste and appearance."
For any given contest, Kirk says he
cooks four briskets, six slabs of ribs,
four whole chickens and four pork
butts. Unfortunately, even a guy with
Kirk's clout has to go all over town to
get his meat for a contest. "It would be
nice to be able to go to one place to get
it all," he says.
For processors willing to supply

www.MEATPOULTRY.com

the competition cookers,
a good-sized contest could
bring them upwards of
$20,000. "You're talking
a couple hundred bucks per team,"
says Kirk.
The fat factor
Carolyn Wells, executive director
of the Kansas City Barbeque Society,
says the complaint she hears among
competitive cookers is that pork has
become too lean. "They want fatter
hogs," she says. "Producers have bred
all the taste out of them," a trend she
says that started about five years ago.
"Some teams use specially grown pigs
to ensure they'll get some flavor. It's
hard to find a fat hog anymore."
A spokeswoman for Kansas City,
Mo.-based McGonigle's Market,

one of the most successful, family
owned meat markets in the Midwest,
says the quest of many competitive
barbecue cookers ends at their meat
counter. "They're all looking for the
best quality," says Joan Weber. "We
carry only choice and prime cuts," she
says, with the most popular among
barbecue teams being brisket and
babyback ribs. "They want the meats
that can cook a long time without drying out."
We would like to hear from you- your comments
and questions about this article are welcome.
E-mail the author at: jcrews@sosland.com


http://www.MEATPOULTRY.com

Meat + Poultry - February 2005

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Meat + Poultry - February 2005

Contents
Meat + Poultry - February 2005 - 1
Meat + Poultry - February 2005 - 2
Meat + Poultry - February 2005 - 3
Meat + Poultry - February 2005 - Contents
Meat + Poultry - February 2005 - 5
Meat + Poultry - February 2005 - 6
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